Engine rebuild tips (Not so common)

Gcraay

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I'm starting a rebuild of a 1975 xs 650 B motor.
Now, What I'm looking for, and I would think this would help others in the forum as well.

I'm looking for the top ten or more things that you wish someone told you about rebuilding this engine before you started.
Not the obvious, new gaskets, o-rings, cleaning, inspection...etc. This is the obvious stuff, I want those things that you found out about after screwing it up. The advice given on things like using grease on these fittings to make them fit together better, the do's and don'ts that make this go easier and better from the beginning.
I may be smart enough to pay for a pro to re-phase the cam and crank, but not smart enough to resist the urge to beat out the thingamajig with a big hammer.
I'll start:

1: Pay for a pro to re-phase the cam and crank, these changes need to be too perfect to just give it a try.
 
Google Hugh's Handbuilt website. He has the ultimate writeup on everything you should know and do. And he damn sure knows his stuff.
 
Remove the four outside acorn nuts and those pesky rubber/metal washers first before loosening or removing anything else. If you loosen all the head bolts and nuts, the top cover rises, pinching those rubber washers in place and making them even harder to remove.
 
When I did mine, I loosened the four outside nuts before removing the engine from the frame. Gave me a solid stand to work against. In fact, I removed as much as I could with the engine still in the frame.
 
Make sure you only add ONE shim behind the bearings on the crank shaft!!!!

Make sure your shift shaft is put in the right way.

Make sure the kick starer gear is in the right position and all the way in.

Don't forget the o-rings on the piston sleeves!

Make sure the camshaft is lined up at TDC.

Locktite all bolts that go metal to metal, and anti cease all bolts that go metal to ally.

Make sure all moving parts are lubricated with oil and move freely.

Soak clutch plates in oil for 24 hrs minimum.

Don't forget the BB's in the clutch shaft, 3 if it's the split one, 2 if it's the solid one

Line the oil pump sprocket up with the crank shaft sprocket BEFORE adding the gasket, and kick start!

There are loads more but I can't think of them now!
 
A good valve spring compressor is worth every penny.

Spend the time to make sure cam is centered. Peen chain prior to centering.

Exhaust gaskets are there. Just black and buried

Piston circlips install are more finesse than muscle. Pliers are not needed.

If filing rings, different rings file at different rates.

Yes, your sump filter is torn.
 
This baffle?!:D

9922241085_20518d8dc9_b.jpg


Or the rubber plug in the top half of the casing

11007682533_f9d815c46a_b.jpg
 
While the engine is still in the frame - remove the points and advance housings. Break the rocker shaft end caps loose using a hand impact. Disconnect the starter cable up at the relay (easier than at the starter motor). Remove shift lever, brake pedal, footpegs, and left side cover. Loosen countershaft sprocket nut (if work is contemplated in this area) and remove the chain.
 
You also don't have to break the chain to remove the cam shaft, as the manual would have you believe. Just be sure to attach some safety wire to it so that you can easily fish it out when it drops into the case :)
 
You also don't have to break the chain to remove the cam shaft, as the manual would have you believe. Just be sure to attach some safety wire to it so that you can easily fish it out when it drops into the case :)

what sorcery is this not breaking the chain?
 
lexlax, you pry up on the cam shaft enough to slide the bearings off. Without the bearings you can remove the chain from the gear
 
Dammmit. Forgot the bbs switching from the 3 piece to a one piece clutch rod. Lol. Good tips here. Was about to pop the good chain to check piston rings. Saw nothing about the baffle in the book.
 
Another great read...as a complete noob, I look forward to revisiting this thread when I start working on my bike.
 
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