engine dies w/ headlight on

barkcollar

AtomicAsian
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G'ville S.C.
Was riding it around yesterday for about 10min and the bike just die's. I kick it over and get about 20ft. and it dies again. Start pushing it home and said screw this turned the headlight off and I make it home.
What's going on. will a relay help.

'77 xs650
kick only
radio shack rec
chry. reg.
small batt.
checked batt. when I got home 7.8v
waited over night it's 11.9v
 

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Sounds like your charging system isn't working. Check the voltage at the battery...should be around 14-14.5 at a 2-3k rpm's.
 
I'm wondering on some of the wire diagrams the black wire from the alt. is going to ground. on others the black is hooked to the brown to the positive. anyone know which one to use. I've done both and the one going to + maintains 12.6v but now the headlight prob.:banghead:
 
- the earthed brushes belong to electrical systems with separate regulators and rectifiers-i think the cut off was around 79...the later systems with integrated rec-reg were earthed through the regulator and the brushes were powered from a 10A source through the ign switch
- look at this diagram, by swapping the various boxes you can see the differences
xs650allyears.jpg
 
forgive me for being a jackass but...
on mine w/radioshack rec. and chry. reg
pamco ign.
3 nylon screws on brushes
one wire on brush to volt reg.
where does the black wire go? + or -
:banghead:
 
- barkcollar...check out the panco posts, where he goes through the relevant wiring...not a jackass, i didnt read your list of mods...however i would guess it goes to switched brown-from your ignition switch
 
Up to 1979 one of the brushes was grounded. In 1980 it was changed so that a grounded brush was not used.

Since you are using 3 nylon screws, you must be using the non grounded method. This means one brush goes to the regulator and the other brush must be wired to a battery supply ( + from ignition switch output)
 
It is like that. I can maintain 11.1v headlight on it drops some.
Did the curly's test.( confused as hell) I get nothing on the stator test. one lead to brass slip other to engine nothing. brass to brass, something
I'm getting 11.1 at the brushes.
3 white wires AC test nothing but get 5ohms
rev engine jumps from 11.1v to 11.2v yeh!
 
I think getting the magnetic thing with the feeler gauge going is the first thing to do, I think the Curley's which you have covers it. Might need to put the batt. on a charger first. Before pitching a part, make sure the voltages going into it are right.
 
if it's 5 ohms it's a good thing.. could be + or - by a few decimals but if it's low (2, 3, etc), it's bad.

might have to remove the brushes to get the correct reading.. not too sure. i checked mine with the brushes out. i would think having them in will change the resistance.
 
everything checks out but the magnet
I scuffed the brushes and used an eraser to clean the brass slips. put it back together and hoped for the best. took it around the block w/ headlight on and it maintained 12.6v. Is that good enough? wondering if a longer ride would kill it. it's not registered or insured yet and passed some cops during my journey. so can't go to far. do it tomorrow.
 
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