if that works, it will be a real helpful one for future diagram seekers.
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some wiring diagrams
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- diagram electrical wiring
if that works, it will be a real helpful one for future diagram seekers.
Your diagram generally looks good. Its not clear from your diagram, but you want to have the 20 amp fuse, physically very close to the battery positive terminal, or to the starter relay terminal. In that way, all wiring down stream of the fuse is protected against a short circuit.
I see only 1 brake switch.................don't you plan to have a switch on both front and rear brakes?
You show only 1 right or 1 left turn bulb. That won't flash if you plan to use a stock type flasher unit. You would have to use 2 rights and 2 lefts to draw enough current for the flasher to do it's thing. If you only use 1 bulb per side, you could go with a "Tridon HD12", which will flash 1 bulb.
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gonhtn1
Guest
I used this one
bloglos
XS650
Thanks for the critique retiredgentleman, I've made some changes based on your input and was hoping you and anyone else can chime in and let me know if you see anything worth being worried about.
Attachments
Well done....................should get your bike running like this little yellow faced guy
bloglos
XS650
Well done....................should get your bike running like this little yellow faced guy
Fantastic thanks!
G
gonhtn1
Guest
with mine since I was planning on using LED turn signals I wanted something that would work for a serious long time. I went to superbrightleds.com and got one of their solid state led flashers. It can also be used for incandescent bulbs too. I doesn't draw anything for usage either.
G
gonhtn1
Guest
I just noticed I didn't put up the right image. Crap here is the right one.
Jon1wdsmen
Ride Loven
Odd question if u get the complete system PMA/ Pemco + e-advance other than lights u shouldn't need a wire harness inline fuses ( sorry for the noob que)
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gonhtn1
Guest
I will always use fuses, no matter how remote the chances are of anything bad happening is. Doesn't every vehicle you own have a fuse panel; no matter how new or old? They are there to protect the circuits and the components that they are attached to. It is always wise to incorporate fuse's.
Besides, the individual components aren't cheap and I am going to do everything I can to protect my investment.
Proper wire size is also, extremely important.
Wire Gauge Core Size Current Capacity Components
8 .172 inch 30 amps Charging battery
10 .141 inch 20 amps Headlights
12 .109 inch 15 amps Horn
14 .078 inch 12 amps
16 .062 inch 6 amps Most minor parts
Besides, the individual components aren't cheap and I am going to do everything I can to protect my investment.
Proper wire size is also, extremely important.
Wire Gauge Core Size Current Capacity Components
8 .172 inch 30 amps Charging battery
10 .141 inch 20 amps Headlights
12 .109 inch 15 amps Horn
14 .078 inch 12 amps
16 .062 inch 6 amps Most minor parts
Last edited by a moderator:
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gonhtn1
Guest
A fuse blows when the amount of current it can handle is exceeded. Using the proper amperage of fuse will protect your device but remember, the fuse will only blow when the amount of current the device needs is exceeded.
The fuse also has another purpose and it's more important than protecting the device -- the fuse protects your vehicle.
Remember, if the device starts to draw more current that means there is a short or a wire between the positive and negative terminals of your battery. The wire gets hot and draws an infinite amount of current. That's bad and could cause a fire if there isn't a fuse to protect the circuit. This is same thing circuit breakers do on power strips at home. They don't protect your TV from a surge, they keep your house from burning down. If a surge or short causes the TV to draw a lot of current (which causes heat) it will blow the breaker so the power cord doesn't catch fire.
Protecting your device is important but the fuse is to keep you from frying your bike or, worse, yourself.
resource: fuzeblocks.com
The fuse also has another purpose and it's more important than protecting the device -- the fuse protects your vehicle.
Remember, if the device starts to draw more current that means there is a short or a wire between the positive and negative terminals of your battery. The wire gets hot and draws an infinite amount of current. That's bad and could cause a fire if there isn't a fuse to protect the circuit. This is same thing circuit breakers do on power strips at home. They don't protect your TV from a surge, they keep your house from burning down. If a surge or short causes the TV to draw a lot of current (which causes heat) it will blow the breaker so the power cord doesn't catch fire.
Protecting your device is important but the fuse is to keep you from frying your bike or, worse, yourself.
resource: fuzeblocks.com
The wire gauges you list are a little on the heavy side, and would make the harness rather bulky and difficult to fit in tight places.
#16 gauge is good for most circuits. #14 gauge can be used for battery to main fuse,main fuse to ignition switch and to rectifier, and ignition switch to the 3 fuses.
Headlight should use #16 gauge. Incadesent 27 watt turn bulbs should use #16 gauge, but LED turn signals can use #18 gauge
Individual circuits such as horn can use #18 gauge. I believe the Pamco ignition uses #20 gauge.
The starter motor cable needs to be large, such as #6 or #8.
On the horn it depends on the horn. On my 75 I have a dual set of horns that draw a lot of power. I have to run a 15 amp fuse, 10 amps blow.
The horn is very very loud.
Leo
The horn is very very loud.
Leo
For sure Leo, the stock horn likely only draws 2 or 3 amps. Wow, 15 amp fuse for a horn................must be the mother of all horns. What brand is that horn? I need to get a louder horn, as my stock horn is pathetically weak. I need to take my horn apart and clean the contacts.
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gonhtn1
Guest
I feel that it's better to have a bigger size than what most do. And yes, there are some horns; dual horns like stated, that draw a lot of amps. To ensure melt down doesn't happen, I go a bit bigger. Safe rather than sorry.
I don't know why, but I have seen a few use solid core wire too. I don't think it's a good idea but, it's not my bike.
So, I wanted the fella to know, what I prefer. Not saying it's a mandatory size chart. One could always refer to stock wiring diagram and use the same size as factory. However, are we running the same things as factory. Are we running the same stator, regulator/rectifier, lights, switches, ignition etc.
Just a thought.
I don't know why, but I have seen a few use solid core wire too. I don't think it's a good idea but, it's not my bike.
So, I wanted the fella to know, what I prefer. Not saying it's a mandatory size chart. One could always refer to stock wiring diagram and use the same size as factory. However, are we running the same things as factory. Are we running the same stator, regulator/rectifier, lights, switches, ignition etc.
Just a thought.
80brat
XS650 Addict
Is a relay needed and is a relay and solenoid the same, mine will be like bloglos diagram
Do you mean a relay for the horn? It depends on the amps that are drawn by the horn.
The stock horn used #18 gauge wire that Yamaha installed at the factory................no relay required.
If you buy a horn that draws 10 amps then you likely would use a heavier wire gauge such as #14 gauge. #14 gauge wire would be quite difficult to fit into the left side control module that houses the horn button. In that case you would use a relay, which would allow you to use #18 gauge at the horn button, and #14 gauge to power the horn itself. The larger gauge also provides for less voltage drop, so more voltage gets to the load (horn).
Sometimes the terms solenoid and relay are used interchangeably. However, there is a difference.
Solenoids produce a strong magnetic field that will cause a steel core to physically move something such as a gear to mesh with another gear. It may also switch electrical current.
Relays do not produce physical motion of shafts or gears. Relays are used for switching of electrical current only. If it switches small amounts of current its called a relay; if it switches large amounts of current its called a contactor.
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gonhtn1
Guest
I totally agree retiredgentleman.
80Brat, the relay stated or rather used in my wiring diagram, is a solid state unit specifically needed when using LED signals. I wanted to use LED's so I went with that unit. A standard flasher wont work, for LED's. Standard flashers are mechanical. There are flashers out there that are electronic however. My solid state flasher cost half the price of one of the new electronic flashers. As well as, no load equalizers were needed. the unit adapts and equals loads automatically.
80Brat, the relay stated or rather used in my wiring diagram, is a solid state unit specifically needed when using LED signals. I wanted to use LED's so I went with that unit. A standard flasher wont work, for LED's. Standard flashers are mechanical. There are flashers out there that are electronic however. My solid state flasher cost half the price of one of the new electronic flashers. As well as, no load equalizers were needed. the unit adapts and equals loads automatically.
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gonhtn1
Guest
I stand corrected.
Electronic LED Flashers have no minimum load-12VDC. Eliminates the need for load resistors, turn signals will flash at normal rate with or without LED bulbs.
Electronic LED Flashers have no minimum load-12VDC. Eliminates the need for load resistors, turn signals will flash at normal rate with or without LED bulbs.
80brat
XS650 Addict
I bend looking at FUZEBLOCK.com and BEAVERPOWER they both offer 30a relay kits not sure what would be for ,starter or other, not good with elect but trying THANKS FOR THE HELP
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