Just another first build.

Got some more goodies in the mail; throttle assembly, cable, headlight bracket, left side control switch.

Headlight mounted.

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Left side control switch.

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JBM carb holders (correct ones were sent) Really impressed with these things. Now...how to carb sync without barbs? :shrug: Looking for some hose clamps to use on them.

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Can someone explain what it is I'm missing here? Bought this throttle and cable from TC bros, in the description it said "works well with xs650 and stock cables." Not sure if what their saying is BS or if I'm not catching onto something.

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The cable can pop out easily at anytime.

Head scratcher number #2 Even with the cable adjusted all the way out, still doesnt reach the carbs. (I'll be cleaning that rust off that one part where the cable sits in, just noticed it) Also, the throttle tube doesnt spin easily on the bar. Almost have to use two hands to turn it :eek: I'm going to sand the gloss black off the handlebar and see if that does it.

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That's all for today :bike:
 
I say God damn God damn... That's looking nice as hell bro! Can't wait to see that in person. So you changed your mind about the bowls huh? It's ok. They look cool as hell the way they are anyway! You're one organized dude man!
 
I would start with getting the throttle tube to spin freely which is probably just that the powder coat is to thick on the bars. If the throttle tube is not turning freely it could be keeping the cable pulled enough to make it hard to make the cable reach and withouot the cable hooked up at both ends the outer shell of the cable can move and that is probably why you can pull it out of the throttle housing.
 
there is a locking nut under the throttle cable guide that looks to be doing nothing.

I would expect the flange at the top of the bend of the outer cable to go above the nut and the nut should hold the outer cable top tube against the throttle guide.

Difficult to describe :laugh:

Remove the lock nut and all should be obvious:thumbsup:
 
there is a locking nut under the throttle cable guide that looks to be doing nothing.

I would expect the flange at the top of the bend of the outer cable to go above the nut and the nut should hold the outer cable top tube against the throttle guide.

Difficult to describe :laugh:

Remove the lock nut and all should be obvious:thumbsup:



:agree::agree:

Funny thing is, I had the same issue with mine, but I did not see your locknut!!!:doh:

Well spotted Peanut!:thumbsup:
 
Rd51, I've been following your build and it looks like you're doing an excellent job. Very impressive. If I can add my two cents about the throttle cable:Binding is probably powder coat unless the tube slid right on, if it slid right on then your cable is probably bound up which would explain it not being long enough. That lock nut is for final length adjustment and you had it right but until both ends of the cable are secured the housing will move the entire length of the exposed cable. The 1/4 round tube under the throttle housing should move freely with the handlebars. Hope you get the knack for soldering, it's actually pretty easy, just watch your heat. Good luck and keep up the great work.
 
Rd51, I've been following your build and it looks like you're doing an excellent job. Very impressive. If I can add my two cents about the throttle cable:Binding is probably powder coat unless the tube slid right on, if it slid right on then your cable is probably bound up which would explain it not being long enough. That lock nut is for final length adjustment and you had it right but until both ends of the cable are secured the housing will move the entire length of the exposed cable. The 1/4 round tube under the throttle housing should move freely with the handlebars. Hope you get the knack for soldering, it's actually pretty easy, just watch your heat. Good luck and keep up the great work.

Thanks Captain Fun. Took a look at it again today. Started by sanding the powdercoat off the bar and getting the tube to roate freely. Then began hooking up the throttle cable. I hooked it up on the carb first; thought it would help me figure out where the cable needed to be up top.Slid the tube on the bar, put the cable through the holder and lock not (the locknut can't go in between the cable and the holder, its slotted, not the same diameter of the cable) and hooked the cable to the throttle tube. I tried it a few different ways. the one way I had it, felt right. Nice and smooth, cable couldnt pop out of the throttle housing, full rotation, and the stop on the carbueator was hitting the idle adjustment screw. Just one thing wrong...it twisted the wrong way. Twist forward- more throttle, twist back- less throttle :laugh:

So I messed with it some more, and got this. Twist and snaps back. But it still doesnt seem right. Yes, the cable won't pop out of the housing, and it's hooked on both sides, but it seems as though I'm only getting half throttle? And the stopper on the carb is not touching the idle adjusment screw. It's actually pretty far away.


I'm going to bring the original throttle cable from my house to the shop and verify they are the same, and go from there.

Installed license plate bracket.

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I then tried to hook up the rear brake linkage. Which leads me to another speedbump :eek: gotta love em.

When I press the brake pedal, it feels like everything in the rear wheel is binding. Mainly the brake up. Press the pedal, and then the pedal won't return. Just stays locked up. I took the rear wheel off, and looked at the brake hub. Tested it off the bike by turning the splined shaft. Both pads flare out, then return to normal position.

When I went to put the wheel back on, I noticed the internal spacer in the hub was floating around ever so slightly. It wasn't in there nice and tight against the bearings. I thought hmm, that's interesting. I replaced the wheel bearings a while back when I finished the wheels.

Thought I'd take it all apart and re-do it to see if I missed anything. Pressed the small "top hat" from the inboard side, in the larger bearing. Placed the longer 3 or 4" spacer in with that little thing around it to keep it centered, then tapped the smaller bearing in on the other side. Then dust seals on both sides (couldn't mix those up) Yet still, the inner spacer floats around, like it needs to be 1/8" longer. Suggestions?

Thanks everyone for helping me through these troubled times :laugh::bike: funny how you make progress for a while, then get held up.
 
Thanks AW !:wink2:

Looks like the PO didn't notice my suggestion though:(

The lock nut you are referring to is part of the adjustment for the slack in the throttle cable. It is not to hold the outer sheath to the throttle housing. If the cable is the correct length and hooked up properly then it will not be able pop out. Oh and by the way how are you doing with your perfectly synced carbs that are closing differently? HAHAHAHA
 
Oh and by the way how are you doing with your perfectly synced carbs that are closing differently? HAHAHAHA

making things a bit personal arn't you sport :wink2::laugh::laugh:

Have I said something to hurt your sensitive feelings sometime in the past ?:laugh::laugh::laugh:

Ah yes! I had the temerity to question your advice regarding the necessity to use a Manometer for syncing carbs. :laugh: pity you didn't read the question properly and answer the posted query instead of going off on a 'manometer mission'
 
Didn't mean to start a controversy :shrug:

But yes, peanut I did notice your advice. Checked out the cable, and it is sitting the correct way how it is now. I understood what you were trying to convey, and had tried that earlier.

Appreciate the help everyone.

Since the throttle and the rear wheel were getting on my nerve last night, I decided to do some wiring tonight. Wired up the headlight and the speedo. This video shows how I have wired up now.

Don't mind the separation in headlight control switch, haven't tightened it yet :thumbsup:


I have a greeen/yellow wire (starting to have a difficult time keeping the wires the same color as stock. A lot of these controls are using different color wires for different purposes, sometimes green is ground, sometimes black, etc.) from the 10 amp fuse on the block, to the + on the speedo and feed to the headlight switch. Low beam to white wire on headlight, high beam to blue wire on headlight. Headlight and speedo ground tied in and then connected to ground.

I orignally had the speedo + tied in after the on/off switch. But the speedo was only lit with the low beam on. When I switched to the high beam it would turn off.

So, I thought (key words) that if I hooked the speedo in before the switch I would solve the problem. Little did I forget that when I turned the key on, the speedo would come on. Is it ok to leave it like this? At first I didn't like it. But then I thought, hey, it's almost an indicator for me that the key is in the ON posistion and that I have power. Thoughts?

On this headlight, there are two more additional wires, and a small bulb on the bottom. What purpose does this bulb serve? Day time running light? I'm currently not using it.

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Was able to cut a small hole in the flex loom so that the wires for PAMCO could exit prematurely. Looks a lot cleaner.
 
Called TC bros to see what I'm doing wrong with the throttle. I was told there is a adjustment screw and plate that needs to be removed in order for this throttle to work for the xs650. Went ahead and did that; still the same. Will be calling them again tomorrow. I checked the original cable that I have with the new one; same length.

Did some more wiring. Not sure if you guys like these videos more than the pictures, but it they are a lot easier to upload.


I was very tempted to use a black wire for the neutral switch so it wouldn't stand out. But decided I could live with it. There are already a lot of black wires in the main loom, this will make it a little easier. :laugh:

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Rd51, love the videos. If you don't mind me asking, where did you find the loom and the switches? I was hoping to go switchless but I need blinkers in my state also. Oh well. Thanks, the bike looks great.
 
Rd51, love the videos. If you don't mind me asking, where did you find the loom and the switches? I was hoping to go switchless but I need blinkers in my state also. Oh well. Thanks, the bike looks great.

I'll keep posting them then :thumbsup:

I found the loom at a place called "common ground" a few blocks from my shop. I've seen it at an another industrial hardware store. I believe it's card flex loom. Just be sure to burn the ends a little wherever you cut it.

The switch I got off ebay from cascade lakes motorsports. The description says "tusk lights horn turn signal 12v motorcycle new dual sport control"

Hope that helps!
 
Rd51, thanks for the info. I am slowly putting a bike together which will be similar to yours only with a rear fender and motocross bars. My first step is ignition and i am not too savvy with electrics but I have friends who are. Wish me luck. Maybe I will post a build as I progress.
 
Hey Rd51,looks like your getting it done man. Do you have shot of your headlight and that secondary bulb inside? I'm just curious...
What kind of shape was your Yamaha throttle assembly in,I'd be using it with that stock replacement cable.
 
Rd51, thanks for the info. I am slowly putting a bike together which will be similar to yours only with a rear fender and motocross bars. My first step is ignition and i am not too savvy with electrics but I have friends who are. Wish me luck. Maybe I will post a build as I progress.

No problem. Right on man! Motocross is where it all started for me. I have faith you'll get it!
 
Hey Rd51,looks like your getting it done man. Do you have shot of your headlight and that secondary bulb inside? I'm just curious...
What kind of shape was your Yamaha throttle assembly in,I'd be using it with that stock replacement cable.

Hey, thanks man. I took some photos today of the headlight and throttle assembly, I'll send them in a PM
 
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