My first ever bike build!!

Thanks Carbon!

It was a last minute add on hehe!!('scuse the pun!)
I do like it, it goes with the "old" look I want.

Easy job,took me about an hour. Just be careful in removing the rubber, those teeth bite into it when you try to pull it off. That is why mine tore.
 
Here's the pedal on the bike.......

12032697943_634bcea45c_b.jpg
 
- Mount headlight properly DONE!!!
- Find replacement line for clutch DONE!!!
- finish off foot pegs Getting there!!!
- mount indicators FRONT ONES DONE!!
- mount coils DONE!!!
- mount tacho and speedo DONE!!
- recon front caliper/s(not sure if I want to go twin or single yet) Going to scratch that, they don't fit:(
- mount Boyer ignition DONE!!!
- add fake oil tank for housing electrics DONE!!
- add key starter DONE!!!
- add hi/lo light switch DONE!!!
- add kill switch DONE!!!
- add neutral light DONE!!!
- add spark leadsDONE!!!
-Install Boyer power boxDONE!!!
-Install one way valve on breather DONE!!!
-Bleed clutchDONE!!!
- plug excess petcock holesDONE!!!
- add petcockDONE!!!
- install fuel lineDONE!!!
- add filter podsDONE!!!
- sort out exhausts
- add horn
- paint fenders
-Bleed brakes
- replace tyres
- Find replacement brake line for front brake
- fab steering stop
- add chain
- mount front fender
- fabricate rear fender
- mount rear fender
- mount rear light
- paint and drill rotors
- possibly make spacers for calipers/rotors
- mount number plate
- wire entire bike
- mount rear brake switch
- clean gas tank
- paint gas tank
- add oil
- add fuel
- run engine
- tune engine
- get MOT!!

Power box installed!

I added some wire grommets to the holes for some vibration cusioning.

12032790944_784ef299ca_b.jpg


I then used two strips of steel, drilled a few holes, and mounted the box, behind the carbs. Job done! Only took me two hours!

12032796054_19027128e8_b.jpg


It does look like it's too close to the swing arm, but it isn't

12033251706_6866c50e5e_b.jpg


12032789494_2941bf77e3_b.jpg


Going to redo the coil mount, I was not happy with what I did.......
 
That's a bit better. I'll redo it next time with a tag welded to the frame when I strip her down for powdercoat. But thats for next winter!

12035988524_141bf5bbe4_b.jpg
 
Paulrxs650 said:
Cracking on there too Airwolfie ;)
The bike looks great !
Click to expand...

I'm trying!! Almost halfway with my list!:bike:

TheRealSpinner said:
I like the checklist you posted. I might have to do the same thing to help motivate me. :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Yes it helps a lot. Go for it, it's pretty daunting at first when you list everything you can think of!! I still find things I need to do that aren't on the list!!!:yikes:
 
ANLAF said:
Airwolfie, I've been out of action for a while - just seen the kickstarter, don't tell me I've missed the big first start-up?

ANLAF
Click to expand...

Glad to have you back matey!!:thumbsup:

No don't worry, no start up yet! But soon!! Most of my electrics are where I want them bar the rear indicators and horn, everything else is ready for the wiring and then the START UP!!

Still have ways to go before she's on the road, but I'm almost halfway through my list!:bike:
 
Airwolfie, I want to get into some fabrication this year, and I like the fake oil tank. But tell me, that is solder work, isn't it? Forgive my ignorance - 2014 is my year to learn how to weld, get the gear, etc (I want to create a cissy bar and seat support struts for a start) but I also want to make some small boxes (or tanks) to hide away a couple of relays and power outlets I would like to add.

ANLAF
 
ANLAF said:
Airwolfie, I want to get into some fabrication this year, and I like the fake oil tank. But tell me, that is solder work, isn't it? Forgive my ignorance - 2014 is my year to learn how to weld, get the gear, etc (I want to create a cissy bar and seat support struts for a start) but I also want to make some small boxes (or tanks) to hide away a couple of relays and power outlets I would like to add.

ANLAF
Click to expand...


Yes Anlaf it is!! I used an old biscuit TIN(make sure it's tin and not plastic!) to make it. Any shape can be used really, just be sure to sand off the paint down to the metal, clean with a rag and add flux( I have a flux pen, works really well, I got it at Maplins). Get a good soldering iron, one that is adjustable, they are a bit expensive, but invaluable for more than just soldering tins together! I have had mine for about 6 years now, best money I have spent! Heat it to almost the maximum, and solder away, almost just like tig welding, guide the solder ahead of the iron, and it will join the tin together.

A bit of creativity is needed to hold the bits together as it gets hot very quickly!! I normally tac the bits together then do it properly. Once done, I slowly run the tip across the "weld" to smooth it all off.

Cutting the tin I just use some scissors and nail scissors, but they get ruined after a while. Tin snips work well too, but they are harder to cut curves with. A dremil with a cut off disc works well too. Watch out, the tin gets VERY SHARP! I have had lots of cuts when I first started off with tin, but you get to learn how to avoid the edges!

Easier than you think, I promise!!:D

If I do any more, I might do a video!
 
Airwolfie, I'll find a soldering iron. I did all my wiring with a basic soldering iron from B&Q just to get the hang of it, and I have struggled, but got there. So, I will need something a little more sophisticated.

At last, a use for generations of Christmas biscuit tins.

Your soldering iron a particular make?

ANLAF
 
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/50-w-solder-station-n78ar

This is what I got.

You also want to get these:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/50w-solder-station-additional-solder-tips-n79ar

And some of this:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/tip-tinnercleaner-jg06g

This is the pen I'm using for flux dispensing, works a treat as long as the surfaces are grease free!

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/rosin-flux-dispensing-pen-n65aa

I have used these for over 9 years and it has never let me down! I never go full heat, I think it would ruin the soldering iron, I usually go about halfway up, and a little more if I do bigger gauge wires.
 

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