Starter gear question

mike1968 said:

Ok. Looks like I still have a leak, but is less. Now after about a week it went dead. Oil was fine, but seems to have no battery power. I was able to jump it and got home. I am wondering if the mechanic using a live wire in the headlight area to get the headlight working did something to the charging system. Would his change affect the charging system? I'm planning on getting a new wiring harness, but figure I would ride it a bit to make sure I didn't have any other major issues before spending more money. Any ideas?

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Batteries will discharge over time if just left sitting in the garage. The only way to know if the charging system is working is to measure the battery voltage at about 3000 to 3500 rpm. You need to see about 14 volts. How old is the battery?

It's about a year old, I have had it on trickle charge a couple of times when not in use.

mike1968 said:

It's about a year old, I have had it on trickle charge a couple of times when not in use.

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Charge the battery at 1/10 of its amp/hr rating for about 12 hours. If it fails to crank the engine properly, you have a bad battery. If you have a 14 amp/hr battery, you can use a 2 amp charger.

I'm assuming you have a correctly sized battery. I use a 14 amp/hr lead acid battery, and it will start my engine, with the electric starter, every day of the week and twice on Sunday.

Make sure your battery negative cable has no corrosion and is connected to bare metal on the frame. The starter relay connections also must be tight, with no corrosion.

I still have a leak out of the starter housing. I check it regularly. I found this product and wondered if anybody else had seen it. I thought about trying it to seal the leak. Pyro-Putty® 1000 sealant and metal repair compound is 2-part, powder and liquid system that operates to 1,400°F. Any thoughts?