The Tangled Mess - A Love Story

hi im adam

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Hi im adam, and this is my headache!

So I traded this! 1995 Seadoo HX

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For this! 1984 XS650! NOT RUNNING!

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Well 15 minutes after that happened I had her figured out that there is no spark, and than this happened...

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Attempted to trace down wires... gave up... building a new harness.

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update!!! 15 minutes after posting this... Spark has been made.
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Rigged up a quick one of these, put my battery charger at 50 Amp and I got spark!
Hardest I've ever been zapped by DC current without putting a 9v battery to the tongue.
 
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Looks like you got a good one to me. Lots of decent upgrades already and looks nice too. Good luck with the electricals. Might want to check to see what kind of upgrades might have been done to the ignition/charging system before you start rewiring.
 
Sounds like you made short work of it. Glad to hear it went so smoothly.

A lot of times the best way to fix the electrical gremlins is to start from scratch.
 
This is too easy! She lives! Ish...

Debating on battery size. Go OEM or stick a tiny one and go kick only.
The one that came with it was reading 1v 0Amps with my HFT Free Meter... the lawn more battery worked great with a whopping 9v 0Amps. Worked great with the charger @ 50 Amps.

But that brings another question to mind. The stator should be generating enough energy to at least make a spark with a dead battery or am I mistaken?


Sorry if i'm killing the suspense for everyone. I'm an electronics tech by trade. :wink2:
 
If the bike has the OEM cahrging system it is a field excited alternator and as such will not produce any juice what so ever with a dead battery because it has to have voltage to the rotor to generate a magnetic field. If it has some other kind of charging system you would have to determine what kind of charging system it is before you will know for certain. With a PMA (Permanent Magnet Alternator) it will produce electricity even with a dead battery but it is not recommended to run one of those without either a battery or capacitor to act as a buffer or you could see wild voltage spikes that can damage electronics.
 
Do not run an XS650 (or most other bikes) with a dead battery the charging system will throw a hernia trying to bring that boat anchor back to life. turns a $40 dollar simple problem into a $100 plus PITA to find and repair.
 
Do not run an XS650 (or most other bikes) with a dead battery the charging system will throw a hernia trying to bring that boat anchor back to life. turns a $40 dollar simple problem into a $100 plus PITA to find and repair.

Please elaborate.. :(

Also, this happened.

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she wont stay running without my battery charger hooked up and if it does stay running, its short lived. Coil/Rotor is reading just shy of 40Volts. Rotor tested good @ 5.2 Ohms. I'm thinking the battery may be too week? its a 0.7Ah, but I was reading just shy of 4 Amps.

Any thoughts? I'm sure its been covered 1000x times, so I'm sorry in advance.
 
If your running the stock charging system with that small battery, that is your problem. Not enough amps to keep the bike running and to satisfy the battery. In other word's, the battery is not taking the charge properly. It is desighned to take a small charge, not the 16 amp charge that the stock system put's out. Do the whole charging system check from the sticky's to be sure your rotor, stater, and regulator are up to par. These bike's will NOT run with no battery or a weak battery. And you will fry something before long. :wtf:
 
I'm surprised you haven't cooked something yet. Hooking up a 50 charger to any bike battery is not very smart. This kind of charge rate can destroy even a good battery.
A 1.5 amp charge rate is all you should use.
Also that high a current flow is often at a too high voltage. Another not so good thing.
On your diagram the "kill" switch is in the wrong place. It should be in the red/white wire feeding power to the TCI box and coil.
Leo
 
I'm surprised you haven't cooked something yet. Hooking up a 50 charger to any bike battery is not very smart. This kind of charge rate can destroy even a good battery.
A 1.5 amp charge rate is all you should use.
Also that high a current flow is often at a too high voltage. Another not so good thing.
On your diagram the "kill" switch is in the wrong place. It should be in the red/white wire feeding power to the TCI box and coil.
Leo

It's not charging @ 50 amps, it's boosting. Is it smart? no. Do I care? not really. Breaking something means its time to get better. With the smaller and less fucked harness she can start with it on 10 amps.

Kill switch is in the right place. That diagram is only a temporary ignition that has already been replaced.



So what is the minimum size battery I should run? 4Ah?
 
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