Uh oh ! I have parts in my oil !

XSNate

XS650 Addict
Messages
131
Reaction score
0
Points
16
Location
Des Moines
Pulled the filters and this is what I found. Do the long pieces look like cam guide parts to you? Not sure about the metal fragments in the filter?
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    116.2 KB · Views: 164
Yes, that's from the front guide. The rubber strip on the guide has a raised ridge of rubber down both sides. It's usually the first part to start breaking away. Here's a shot of my original and as you can see, most of the raised ridge is gone on both sides with just a small portion remaining (indicated in green) .....

FrontGuide.jpg


I found those same long strips in my oil like you did. Besides the strips breaking off, my rubber strip was also coming unglued .....

FrontGuide2.jpg
 
Soooo, I will do a tear down this fall but I wanna ride this summer. Any one have a big problem with that? Worst case scenario?
 
It is your bike. Good decisions, bad decisions you have to live with it.
Worse case? A flake of aluminum knocked/chipped/shaved from the front guide bar finds its' way to the crank bearings?
 
Well, as long as the rubber stays glued on, it should be OK. I've found the rubber completely off and sitting down on the crank on a couple motors I tore down. I rode mine for another season or so after I found the strips in my oil. Luckily, I didn't go too long and the rubber didn't completely fall off, lol. Mine developed a rather pronounced tick for the first 30 seconds or so after starting. I figure that loose rubber strip was flapping against the aluminum base of the guide and making noise until oil got splashed up from the bottom to quiet it down.
 
Well I'm gonna ride it a few more times and see. It really runs smooth and pretty quiet.
Is the metal possibly from the chain slapping something? ( it was real loose and now in adjustment)
Thanks for your input!
 
The big chips in the little side filter are usually from the grinding starter gear. If the chain starts rubbing on the bare aluminum sides of the front guide, you'll get aluminum power in your oil. When you drain it, watch as the draining stream hits the old oil already in your catch pan. It will cause a bit of a swirling effect as it hits and you may see what appears to be metal flakes or sparkles in the oil. I think a little bit of this is just normal and will happen even with a good guide. Those screen strainers don't catch fine particles like this. If the oil looks like one of those gaudy '60s metal flake paint jobs with a huge amount of large particles, maybe I'd worry.
 
Not a "paint job" in the oil....yet. I did also put in a upgraded sump filter for the XS. This one should never tear!
I will try it kick it over instead of using the starter. It's just so damn hard to kick! Luckily usually takes just one or 2 kicks as long as it doesn't spring back and bust my leg up :/. it sucks to kick it with a bunny on the back!
 
If it's kicking back on you, that usually indicates the timing is off, and it needn't be off much for it to happen. The "upgraded" filters blow out just as readily as the originals. Yes, they are reinforced, but not in the blow-out prone area, so basically they're just another cheapo Mikes replacement part. I don't care for them. Besides not being reinforced where they need to be, the magnets fall out too, lol. I prefer patched originals.

The secret to not blowing holes in your filter, original or MikesXS replacement, is to take it easy and keep the RPMs down to below 4K or so until the cold oil warms up some. It's that cold, thick oil that holes the filters. I have one of DogBunny's most excellant oil temp dip sticks. I keep the R's down until I see it hit about 100°.
 
My sump filter is a completely different design than original. All metal.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    6.9 KB · Views: 113
if it kicks back, timing is probably too advanced. I run mine on the right line of the |F| mark. The pamco makes it even easier as I believe pete said it retards slightly at rest for easier starting.
 
I hooked up the timing light and I was a bit advanced on the right cylinder. When I moved the clamp over to the left side, I had a hard time getting it to line up with the mark. It was erratic and seemed to blink side to side of the mark? I just did my best to try to even it out as best I could. It just wasn't clear as the right cylinder ? Ideas?
 
When you put the light on the right wire and get good flashes and not on the left, flip the clamp over on the left. Current flows from the coil to plug. The clamp senses this current flow best, when you put it on the left you have it on so it can't sense the current as well.
Some lights are more sensitive to this than others.
Leo
 
Back
Top