78 no idle - pamco, PMA, carb rebuild

I can't get an idle after putting my bike together. It kicks over but I have to keep the revs around 3000 to even keep it firing. WITH the choke on. When I turn the choke off it sputters and dies after 5 seconds or so, no matter what the throttle is set at.

I've ran through all the obvious troubleshooting and recommendations from the carb guide. Including:

Cam chain tension - ok
Valve clearances - ok
spark - ok
fuel flow - ok. Even ran new fuel and vacuum lines. Petcocks flowing fine.
Pamco Timing - Can't really set until i can idle but where it's set now at least it kicks over fairly regularly (just advanced beyond Pamco Pete's recommended setting)
PMA - aligned right at TDC mark, checked and double checked
Battery - ok

Carbs......... so I rebuilt the carbs, going up one size in the main and pilot jets and dropping the needle one notch (moved the clip up). Running Pod filters and shorty pipes.

I pulled the bowls and checked all the jets. Pilot jets are clear and slide is moving smoothly.

Still feels like a carb issue, which is frustrating as I spent a ton of time cleaning and restoring them. Thanks for the help fellas.

We need some additional particulars.

1. Year and model.
2. PMA. Battery or capacitor.
3. You must use a timing light. Do you have one?
4. Is the PMA rotor keyed to the crank shaft?
5. I'm not a carb guy, but, doesn't moving the clip up a notch lean the mixture?
6. PMA aligned right at TDC. The ignition timing is 15 before TDC.
7. Not sure of your remarks re vacuum lines. They have to either go to your vacuum petcocks or be blocked.

It's a 1978 SE. Running a battery with my PMA for now. I have a timing light. TDC is spot on.

UPDATE:I managed a little idle by advancing the PAMCO plate and inclreasing the throttle stop a couple turns. BUT NOW my flywheel is throwing sparks!! Taking it off to examine. It is a mixture PMA setup - Hugh's mounting plate and stator mount, Honda stator (forget which but on the approved list per hugh) and a banshee flywheel.

Sure am glad I took that flywheel off....

So the stator mount is cracked in 2 places. I really didn't think I tightened the stator screws too much but here we are..


Which caused this guy to pop out and scare the hell out of me...


The stator and flywheel look on, just a few scratches. I'll have to be extra careful on the torque next time and use a bit more loctite. Maybe even switch from blue to red.

Curious? How far do you screws stick out past the stator?
Do the holes in mounting plate go through entire way threaded?

Did you mean raise the jet needle clip or raise the jet needle?

Flywheel looks like it was tilted. Perhaps woodruff key interference?

chizler62 said:

Curious? How far do you screws stick out past the stator?
Do the holes in mounting plate go through entire way threaded?

Did you mean raise the jet needle clip or raise the jet needle?

Click to expand...

The holes do go all the way through the mount. Not sure if they are threaded all the way. I'll check. My plan is to countersink the back of the mount and run new hardware out the opposite direction. There's a great hardware place in town that has every size imaginable.

I raised the needle clip one notch, lowering the needle.

TwoManyXS1Bs said:

Flywheel looks like it was tilted. Perhaps woodruff key interference?

Click to expand...

Could be! If so it was slight but I see what you mean. I filed a woodruff key top to fit both the banshee flywheel and the engine but it had some chew marks too. I couldn't find much on proper shaping of the woodruff key, and conflicting info on if I even need one.

So fortunate to catch it in the shakedown and not out on a test ride..

If you don't have a torque wrench, you should buy one.