tc bros axle spacer...

hey buddy, I used a bottle jack and a piece of wood, jacked it up accordingly, I'm not sure if it was stated 9 inches out, let it sit there for a while the frame came back. Repeated the process a few times until I had the right amount of space. Good luck!

actually, just remeasured, its just shy or 1/4 of an inch that I lost.

Im assuming you stretched it with engine in?

These issues just sound like welding issues. When welding the tubes will move. Just moving a millimeter at the seat stays can move the axle plate many millimeters.

Im not really sticking up for TCB as i havent used their hardtails before, but keeping heat down when welding is probably the best preventative measure. That and bolt the back wheel or similar spacer in before welding.

I never welded my hardtail, a friend did it for me. He used some really expensive welder. So I had to put my trust in him. He also owns a bike so I'm sure he knows the variables. Either way I was unfortunate enough to use a bottle jack.

I never welded my hardtail, a friend did it for me. He used some really expensive welder. So I had to put my trust in him. He also owns a bike so I'm sure he knows the variables. Either way I was unfortunate enough to use a bottle jack.

Click to expand...

No worries, wasnt trying to accuse anything. Just trying to help narrow down the problem. Sucks that you have to spread the rear end at the end though.... Itll work fine though... which is all that matters... haha

All good man, I know you weren't. Sucks because every time I take the rear wheel out it shrinks just a bit for me to get mad at trying to put it back in

Hi Cobra,
my trusty dial gauge sez the stock swingarm end plates are 15mm (0.59") thick.
Even after you have spread the hardtail to the correct inside width the axle length problem will persist until you add enough washers to make up the difference between the hardtail's thinner end plates and the stocker's.
And while I've scratched my head over whether your axle being put in backwards makes any difference, so long as the chain adjusters are swapped to match I don't suppose it does.

Hey Fredintoon,

After much deliberation and head scratching and cursing, I got all the amount of spacers and chain tensioners put in place in the correct format. I made the mistake of putting some washers, the thick kind I forget the proper size, picture is uploaded in the 1st page. To be honest I'm not sure what happened. I guess it's one of those things I have to live with.

beleiver, yes I did stretch it with the engine in. We were trying to put the fender on, and that didn't even line up cause the guy who I had put on a wheel and true it didn't even do it properly so I have a bit of a wobble on my wheel which then sort of touches my fender. Nothing but a headache

hi, am reading through a bunch of the threads about axle spacing. With engine in frame, and having .25 inch axle plates, awhile back I'd added Travis's super-spiffy spacer plates outside the frame's axle plates. That left the interior, side to side measurement a bit wide compared to the 8 1/2" of stock swing arm.

It seemed with stock axle adjusters I'd need approximately 1/8 more on each side, inside the axles plates. But I didn't want to mess with extra "stuff" (washer spacers) each time I'd take the wheel on or off, so I went ahead and also added one MORE of the Travis's spacers to the inside of each of the axle plates. So NOW, measured with calipers, my welded up combo: spacer/axle plate/spacer each now measures just the same as the slotted axle plates on a stock swingarm. (using an adjustable wrench that is marked on both sides, so it can be used as a caliper).

But now, the distance from inner spacer to inner spacer is almost a 1/4" narrower than the stock 8 1/2".

So I could leave it, and just try like heck to shove the wheel, disc brake, axle adjusters and all in there as it is, and see if I can spread it gently that way. OR - should I go ahead and attempt to file or sand down the inner spacers to achieve the exact 8.5"?

If I did that, I'd need to remove 1/16" inch on each inner surface.

If I go that way - abrading/sanding them to be thinner, what's the best way to go?

Grinder with aggressive flap disc would be the easiest way to remove metal, for me....but it wouldn't be nice and flat that way.
A file or metal rasp? Seems that carefully used, that would remove material most evenly, but of course it would take forever.
Or maybe go to Harbor Freight and get one of those el cheapo triangle headed electric sander tools, along with plenty of sandpaper?
Or do it with the grinder and flap disc at first, and then even it up with a good file or metal rasp?

I really like how the axle adjuster area is now beefed-up, so I don't want to remove the inner spacers I added.

My XS chopper project used to be a project that could take forever if I wanted it to, but since having lost my good job over a year ago and having had to sell my 07 Sporty to pay bills, if I want a bike now, I have to make this project work.

My gut feeling is to take it down carefully, first, with a flap disc on grinder - and then, using very even strokes on a surface that has been colored with a marker to show high and low spots, finish up with a file.

(Or!!!!!! figure out a way to remove the built in washers that exist on the Mike's axle adjusters. They look to me to be pressed on with tiny spring steel "pins", and then the hole lightly welded over.)

Anyway, input appreciated. Don't hold back now - I know you are a gnarly bunch. But I sure do value your opinions, as always.

Aunty Em
FL

Dear Aunty Em,
What Uncle Bodger would do is get a length of 3/4" UNC threaded rod with two nuts and two plain washers, shove the assembly into the frame and use it as a jack to spring the frame apart so it's just the right distance apart to fit what you have.
You'll have to take it a bit wider because it'll spring back a bit.
Don't fret if you overcook it a bit, you can always move the nuts to the outside and warp it back in, eh?
[edit] If Uncle Bodger couldn't find his length of threaded rod and was too cheap to go buy another or it was Sunday and the bolt shop wasn't open, he'd borrow the car's scissor jack and use it to widen the frame, being very careful not to overcook the stretch because there's no way a scissor jack will pull instead of push. [endedit]

hi Fred, so nice to see you here, by the way. I will do exactly that. Buy some fat threaded rod and some nuts and I believe I already do have the washers/spacers.

It made me nervous thinking of making the frame conform to the space, by spreading it. But I will try it after all.

Will report back in a few.

Em

by the way, it was so easy to "spread". I feel silly to have asked. Thanks again.