Paulrxs650
XS650 Enthusiast
Snap. I had the same detatchable front guide!
That engine looks very good after your cleaning session. Well done
That engine looks very good after your cleaning session. Well done
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Bit of a tidy up.
- Thread starter kevski
- Start date
-
- Tags
- restoration
Today I polished the tappet covers, torqued the top end down, adjusted the tensioner, valve clearances, new camshaft oil seals, final drive seal and clutch push rod seal. I then decided to strip the rear wheel for cleaning and then cleaned it then checked the bearings and thought they feel rough so have ordered some new ones.
westonboege
XS650 Addict
Looks great! nice and clean!
Paulrxs650
XS650 Enthusiast
Good progress there! A tip for putting the engine back in - lie the frame on its side on something nice and soft, tape the frame up. Then, pop the engine in and stand the whole lot upright. Another set of hands does help
Could not wait till the weekend to put the motor in, so I did it today laying the frame over the motor done this many times with the old Z1's, then put the brake pedal and switch on, also made sure there is electrical continuity between the frame and motor.
pamcopete
Ride.Enjoy.Life is Simple
I haven't been following this thread before, but I happened on it today and I must say that wheel barrow engine stand is pure genius! 
I'm looking forward to the day when you attach a chain to the wheel 
and create the worlds fastest wheel barrow, as you promised in the introduction!
I'm looking forward to the day when you attach a chain to the wheel and create the worlds fastest wheel barrow, as you promised in the introduction! 
Your "rough" bearings may be fine and just in need of some fresh grease. I've "fixed" several in this manner. They must be the rubber shielded type though. You can't get into the steel shielded ones. If your originals have the steel shields then yes, replace them. However, even new sealed and "lubed for life" bearings may not have much grease in them. It's best to check them. The rubber seals are pretty easy to pop out using a pick, awl, or small sharp pocket knife .....
I check both sides then fill only one side with fresh (or added) grease. Filling the whole bearing is over-kill and too much. The excess will just ooze out in use and make a mess .....
I check both sides then fill only one side with fresh (or added) grease. Filling the whole bearing is over-kill and too much. The excess will just ooze out in use and make a mess .....
Today I decided to clean and paint the underside of the fenders and chain guard, while the fenders were surface rust, underneath the chain guard was almost completely rust free and chrome for that matter, though you don't expect great chrome on the underside you expect to see it, but not with Yamaha the chrome barely made it round the edges, having said that the nickel plating covered the whole of the underside, the more I do on this bike the more I realize they were not made to last a few years let alone almost forty, 1970s Yamaha craftsmanship is absolute rubbish.
That's pretty clever, Fred! I'm going to keep my eye on you!
This made me think of how sometimes I would use Zep 2000 aerosol grease. The grease came out combined with solvents, and would wash away the old cruddy grease, and then the solvent would evaporate quickly, leaving behind a very nice clear PTFE grease. I've kept a lot of old machinery going in this manner, but I don't think I would actually use this technique on a wheel bearing.
Personally, I'd go with a new bearing just for peace of mind. Those 6203 bearings are only $4-$6 anyway. Cheap insurance.
Hi Higgy,
yeah, this thing:-
http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/grease-injector-needle/A-p8264889e
The hard part is remembering where you put the effin' thing.
yeah, this thing:-
http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/grease-injector-needle/A-p8264889e
The hard part is remembering where you put the effin' thing.
Done some more on the old gurl at the weekend, harness, clocks, fenders, rear wheel and brakes, replaced the brake hoses with Goodridge braided hoses and bled the brakes this afternoon, only took about 30 minutes which is a good result.
A bit more progress today, with a question, I have renewed the harness and handlebar controls with ones from mikes I have stateside ones, before the tear down as soon as I turned the key the front and back lights come on the old harness's were butchered, now with the new ones I switch the ignition on and now the lights don't come on is this meant to be this way, I have also installed a PMA.
Hi kevski,
on my North American '84 Heritage Special turning the key to ON lights up everything except the headlight.
A latching relay turns the headlight on automatically when the alternator starts charging and leaves it on until the key is turned OFF should the engine stall or the alternator quit.
There's also the switch's PARK position which turns the tail light on.
New Boyer ignition on carbs and air boxes, put the very dusty tank on and she fired straight up and did not even need the timing adjusted, I have an issue with the lights but have put that in the electrical section.
She lives here on you tube.
She lives here on you tube.
Paulrxs650
XS650 Enthusiast
Getting there mate! Well done!
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