Rust removal from inside gas tank

Thanks for your advice Travis. I replaced my anode correctly and all the rust is out now. There was just some black residues at the end. This morning, I went to an Harley shop and buy a Kreem kit. I wanted to use POR15 but I didn't found it in any shop around here. I followed the instructions carefully and it worked pretty well. I just went through "the process" today and turned out great. After cleaning it with the first solution (tank prep A) for about 7-8 hours, everything was gone. I just finished to drain the fuel tank liner so I will see the final result in a day or two. They said that you can reuse the liner product after 6 hours or more to get an extra protection. Maybe I will try it tomorrow morning.

I have a question. When the liner inside the tank will be dry, is it better to leave it empty until next spring or should I full it with gas and stabilizer ?

Here's what I use.

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Good to hear that repositioning the electrode worked!

Leave it empty until you need to put gas in it.
 
Most farm supply stores sell it. I think it's muractic acid, not sure though.
 
Found this alleged great product for sealing our fuel tanks - Reistant to alcohol and most fuel additives. Recommended by Dime City Cycles http://dimecitycycles.com/

These guys seem to favor Honda twins, but there stuff will work for us. The partly sponsered the MODs Vs. Rockers ride we had in Fort Lauderdle last month. They had some very cool scoots.

RED-KOTE see attached
 

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electrolysis is how you make HHO, but most use lye. Back in the day we used this also to plate small parts. Cracking water makes HHO and if watch your amps as the more "whatever" you add will be how well the current draws....:yikes:
 
Was just at the farm supply. A gallon of milk stone remover is $11.95. It sulfuric acid. I have used it fairly often when I worked on the farm.
 
re; rust inside tank.......Just follow simple instructions on Red Kote can..no degree required....has been used for auto tanks forever.....the reason for viscosity is to seal oxide particles to tank keeping them out of fuel solution.........
 
I really feel you will have "down the road" problems when using a sealer inside the tank. I don't trust them. I always remove the rust the best you can and use it that way. I have suggested phosphoric acid, left in the tank overnight or even longer, followed by flushing. It is the safer alternative. I use phosphoric acid a lot in restoration work.
 
I mix 3:1 when I am working with sheetmetal for paint prep. I do not use a water rinse afterwards. However, for working with the tank, I wouldn't cut it like that. You could use 1:1 if you feel comfortable doing it that way, but I use it straight.
 
What does it do to the rust? Does it eat it away, or does it change it to iron phosphate, or?
 
hi guys i,ve used metho,,, about 2-3 litres ,,its cheap enough and don,t leave it sitting there too long make a coffee /come back and flush it around drop it out do it 2-3 times works well regards oldbiker
 
thanks....all good input on internal tank rust problems.....Re; coating...All etch and acid treatment of mild steel will require some type of coating or it will quickly oxidize again (trouble down the road).....H2O condensation and absorbtion. Steel fuel vesels rust from the inside out.....The Red Kote serves as a thin plastic barrier to oxidizing agents....It does not desolve with gasoline available att....If tank is preped w/ MEK and some shakes with and old chain, adhesion will be fine.........
 
Well phosphoric acid will actually eat the rust, but left on long enough it will leave a phosphate coating. So filling atank and leaving it in there , you will definitely end up with the ferric phosphate coating on the inside, which is a good thing. This is very similar to Parkerizing which some engine parts have done to them.
 
Vinegar

Nuff said.

Non toxic, it's cheap and it works. Fill a 5 gallon pail full.

Before:
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After-
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