Great Idea, I'll do an experiment!
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My first build (2016) '72 xs650
- Thread starter Azazel
- Start date
Great Idea, I'll do an experiment!
After 4 failed attempts to fix it yesterday, I attacked the left handlebar switch again this morning and figured it all out. 
Here's some pics (if it can eventually help someone)
A pic of the housing with all bits and pieces set aside
The wires: (turn signal thing with horn button on the right and half moon shaped contacts for the lights and high beams on the left.
Cleaned everything with a toothbrush and soapy water and dried in the morning sun.
Assembling the horn button and turn signal contacts:
All the bits and pieces for the gliding switch assembly:
Signal light "arm" reinstalled:
Top half now:
Bits and pieces for the "lights on" switch:
(Note: there's a little plastic tab that i assume is meant to sit between the copper plate and the spring. Not sure why... ground maybe.)
Re-fastening the top "levers":
High/low beam switch:
(I don't know why this one has two thumb tack-like contact points instead of a copper plate like the other ones(?) weird and cumbersome to manage when reinstalling.
Back in:
All done:
Here's some pics (if it can eventually help someone)
A pic of the housing with all bits and pieces set aside
The wires: (turn signal thing with horn button on the right and half moon shaped contacts for the lights and high beams on the left.
Cleaned everything with a toothbrush and soapy water and dried in the morning sun.
Assembling the horn button and turn signal contacts:
All the bits and pieces for the gliding switch assembly:
Signal light "arm" reinstalled:
Top half now:
Bits and pieces for the "lights on" switch:
(Note: there's a little plastic tab that i assume is meant to sit between the copper plate and the spring. Not sure why... ground maybe.)
Re-fastening the top "levers":
High/low beam switch:
(I don't know why this one has two thumb tack-like contact points instead of a copper plate like the other ones(?) weird and cumbersome to manage when reinstalling.
Back in:
All done:
Could we get a few more pics of that? 
Petcock heat shrink tube crack repair dip fill reserve brass cracked split heatshrink solder soldered repaired fix petcocks
Found a shrink tube that was just bigger than the brass, carefully and evenly shrank it with a heat gun.
So slick and easy, looks super!
about an hour in fresh ethanol gas,
FAIL!
Petcock heat shrink tube crack repair dip fill reserve brass cracked split heatshrink solder soldered repaired fix petcocks
Found a shrink tube that was just bigger than the brass, carefully and evenly shrank it with a heat gun.
So slick and easy, looks super!
about an hour in fresh ethanol gas,
FAIL!
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Now that you've got the left switch reassembled, I suppose you don't need me telling you to coat everything with dielectric grease first...
Ya ya... I know that.
Just don't have any atm. I'm gonna take it apart again and do that whenever I get some. The list is growing.So this aft, I changed the clutch wire thinking it would resolve the issue with it being so damn stiff. Thought it was just the wire being old and rusty. (hopeful). But still... tough as nails to pull.
So i went and took apart the right side to inspect if the disks for the clutch were seized or something. Upon getting the cover off, they looked quite rusty and crappy. (but when i pulled them all out, they were nicely oiled all over and appeared decent. So I don't get why the whole ensemble doesn't move when pulling the clutch)
When i pulled on the clutch, Nothing slid. (as per some youtube videos I've watched on proper installation.
(See:
) This dude explains stuff pretty good and gave me the confidence i needed to take that side apart.
Oh... And yeah... i dislodged the kick pedal as a rookie would.
Oops! Gonna have to reinstall that...
I had to use this thing to loosen the screws with springs and they were pretty jammed and partially stripped too.
I've seen on later models that they use Allen (hex) type screws instead of philips. I wonder if i could swap theses out (?) What do you guys think?
So i went and took apart the right side to inspect if the disks for the clutch were seized or something. Upon getting the cover off, they looked quite rusty and crappy. (but when i pulled them all out, they were nicely oiled all over and appeared decent. So I don't get why the whole ensemble doesn't move when pulling the clutch)
When i pulled on the clutch, Nothing slid. (as per some youtube videos I've watched on proper installation.
(See:
Oh... And yeah... i dislodged the kick pedal as a rookie would.
Oops! Gonna have to reinstall that...I had to use this thing to loosen the screws with springs and they were pretty jammed and partially stripped too.
I've seen on later models that they use Allen (hex) type screws instead of philips. I wonder if i could swap theses out (?) What do you guys think?
Hi Azazel,
that's the new cable in your photo? It's install seems to have nasty sharp curves in it.
The more bends in a cable the harder it is to pull.
If the clutch is assembled correctly and it's cable is new, properly lubricated, adjusted, and run with the least possible amount of bends in it, the clutch pull still won't be light but it will be manageable.
Most likely the Allen head clutch screws you have seen are an aftermarket upgrade and yes, you should use them.
They use normal Allen head fasteners with adapter sleeves.
MikesXS sells them.
Kinda thought the shrink tubing would fail in the gas. Thanks for testing. Check the worm gear for the clutch. Nice job on cleaning the parts. I have a set of 72 control halfs that have been bead blasted but are in Idaho. If you need replacements down the road let me know. We plan on moving there by August. There are a couple of threads on the site on modifying the clutch bolts for allens or you can buy aftermarket from Mikes.
Yeah. I ordered the Allen bolts today from xs650direct. (Canadian version of mikesxs)
My originals were dangerously close to being stripped. showed they were abused. This winter when I completely tear down the bike I'm gonna get mine blasted and painted too. I could really use a chain guard though... If ever you come accross one, pretty please: remember me.
Question:
When I took apart the clutch assembly, there's 5 or 6 rubber gaskets/o-rings fitted under each friction plate. (???) of all the videos I've watched and the manuals I've referenced, I see absolutely no sign of these... Only on mine. (They are square edged and are fitted between each friction plate and the clutch boss). Why would the PO have added those?
I'm gonna tear it down again tomorrow and take a picture and show y'all.
When I took apart the clutch assembly, there's 5 or 6 rubber gaskets/o-rings fitted under each friction plate. (???) of all the videos I've watched and the manuals I've referenced, I see absolutely no sign of these... Only on mine. (They are square edged and are fitted between each friction plate and the clutch boss). Why would the PO have added those?
I'm gonna tear it down again tomorrow and take a picture and show y'all.
Those clutch o-rings were stock for our early bikes. Listed as 'RING, cushion' in the parts manuals.
By now, they're old and have taken a set, not original thickness.
I ditched mine in '74 when I upgraded to Barnett 6-plate clutch.
If you do the 6 to 7 plate upgrade, you have to ditch them anyways. They're only for the 3.5mm thick friction plates...
By now, they're old and have taken a set, not original thickness.
I ditched mine in '74 when I upgraded to Barnett 6-plate clutch.
If you do the 6 to 7 plate upgrade, you have to ditch them anyways. They're only for the 3.5mm thick friction plates...
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K so... I've been tinkering with the clutch again, trying to figure out why its so tight. etc etc.. Noticed the the ball bearing which should be located in position 16 (see picture) is actually "Push lever assembly" (position 19). Does this make a difference? The PO must have done it...
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