My first build (2016) '72 xs650

The 'push lever assembly', part #19, actually has a 5/16" ball in there, retained by crimps. Not shown because it's a part of part #19. If the crimps are worn enough, the ball can fall out during side cover removal. Put grease in there to retain the ball during servicing.

The 2nd 5/16" ball, part #16, is still required...
 
Thanks TwoMany. I'm actually reading right now your experiment you did with the push lever assembly (see: http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31554)


and noticed you had one (Ball bearing at 19) too (in your pictures). So it put my mind at ease.
I guess I'll just take it all apart and clean and grease it. see if that helps. Also, when i pull the clutch, I can hear the pin slide. (don't know how else to explain the sound other than it sounds like when a bearing is finished)

Could it be something to do with the channel where the push rod travels? lack of oil?
 
Thanks TwoMany. I'm actually reading right now your experiment you did with the push lever assembly

Oh, I'm so sorry about that. After reading, I recommend plenty of aspirins and two days bed rest.:D

...when i pull the clutch, I can hear the pin slide. (don't know how else to explain the sound other than it sounds like when a bearing is finished)

Could it be something to do with the channel where the push rod travels? lack of oil?

The clutch pushrod DOES pass thru a bushing, just behind the oil seal. That area normally starts leaking oil when they wear. Never heard of any sound there. It only moves in/out about 0.060" (1.5mm).

But, there ARE other things down there that could make that noise:
Clutch cable dragging in the cable elbow.
Clevis and pin fit to the actuator arm.
The worm drive itself.

A good cleaning and greasing of those things may eliminate that...
 
Hi Azazel,
that's the new cable in your photo? It's install seems to have nasty sharp curves in it.
The more bends in a cable the harder it is to pull.
If the clutch is assembled correctly and it's cable is new, properly lubricated, adjusted, and run with the least possible amount of bends in it, the clutch pull still won't be light but it will be manageable.
Most likely the Allen head clutch screws you have seen are an aftermarket upgrade and yes, you should use them.
They use normal Allen head fasteners with adapter sleeves.
MikesXS sells them.

Yup... Fred is right. I bought this clutch cable on eBay because xs650direct didn't have any for '72's and today I measured it compared to the original, and it's considerably longer. I find the "pull" on it to be unacceptable. It's too hard to pull. Gonna have to shop for a closer fit. Or just recondition the original. :shootme:
 
Did you oil the new cable before you put it to use? I use the funnel method. I remove the cable from the bike. Hang the cable up so it hangs straight down. Use kitchen foil to make a funnel around the cable at the upper end.
Fill the funnel with oil. Motor oil works fine. I use 3N1 oil. Let it set. The oil will drain through the cable and come out the bottom. When it does your cable is oiled.
You can speed up the process by moving the cable core in/out.
It can be done on the bike but getting the upper end straight up can be tricky.
Leo
 
deleted post, out of order and thus not relevant.
 
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I know I've been gone for a while but it's been my busy season. (I'm not retired) so... I'm back. Slowly gonna start tinkering again.

Here's an image of me starting electrolysis on the tank.
 
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Condition of the tank (that's after I tried CLR, nails and screws, pebbles, swishing etc...
 
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With the setup set at 2amps 12v charge. + water and 3tbsp of sodium carbonate.

We'll check it out in a few hours.
 
I've used this method before with very good results... your rebar anode looks like its almost touching the filler neck... your power supply might not like it if it is...
 
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Nope. Don't worry about that. I made sure it wasn't. However it is a little close for my liking. I wonder if the bubbles could act as a conductor. Hmm....(?) I inspect it know and then and it's still bubbling and churning away rust.
 

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How is the project coming?
Pretty slow going as of now. I'm still pretty busy with my work season. I did an electrolysis run on the tank. Pictures will come soon. However I think that 1) the fact that I used sodium BIcarbonated instead of carbonate affected the results a bit. And 2) I think that leaving the petcocks in may have leached some compound from the brass. (Maybe?) as it didn't turn out as awesome of a clean as I expected.
I'm gonna try another run with borax (sodium tetraborate) soon. Will report back with results.
 
Sodium Carbonate can be found at any home improvement store that sells chemicals for maintaining swimming pools... its used to control pH...

https://www.rona.ca/en/sodium-carbonate

For the petcocks, it should be easy enough to make a blank plate out of flat bar with two holes for the petcock screws, and temporarily seal with silicone.

Don't give up, as you should be able to get good results with this method.
 
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