How do I check and change oil on an XS650? Oil recommendations?

Some people use rotella oil
I use valvoline motorcycle oil
10-40 in winter
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline-4-Stroke-Synthetic-Motorcycle-Oil-10W40/16777818
20-50 in summer
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline-4-Stroke-Synthetic-Motorcycle-Oil-20W50/16777819
also
1. Oil level measurement
a. To check the level, warm the engine up
for several minutes. Stop the engine.
With the engine stopped, screw the dip
stick completely out and then rest the
stick in the hole.
1. Oil level dip stick
b.
2.
NOTE:
When checking engine oil level with the
dip stick, position the machine straight up
and on main stand.
The dip stick has a minimum and a maximum
mark. The oil level should be
between the two. If the level is low, add
sufficient oil to raise it to the proper level.
 
The usual Rotella folks use is the 15-40 stuff meant for diesels. All reports are that it works OK. I tried it but didn't like the added top end clatter the thinner 40wt. produced. I switched back to a 20-50.
 
Synthetic oil is a waste of money on these bikes. Regular 20W-50 motorcycle oil works very well, and is a good choice for California. I have also used the 15-40 Rotella diesel, but agree with 5twins, and find the 20W-50 keeps the top end quieter.
 
"this oil is 5W-40......? am I missing something?"


Here's my logic for using the synthetic Rotella T6, but I don't profess to be an expert in any way:

1. Synthetic oil is supposed to maintain its lubrication properties better and longer than non-synthetic oils. The long chain molecules are more stable. The XR-650 is aircooled and thus surely runs hotter than modern water cooled bikes. The 360 degree crankshaft with its attendant pressure pulses perhaps adds to the stress applied to the oil. Sharing the engine oil with the gearbox really puts the oil through the ringer. And, at Walmart's $22/gallon, you're really not paying a meaningful premium to go synthetic.

2. I've never compared the noise level between 20-50 and 5-40 so don't know any difference. Most importantly, I NEVER ride w/o earplugs or molded earbuds attached to iPhone, so I wouldn't perceive any difference anyway. (side note: as a now hard-of-hearing 60 year old who back in the 70's used to ride in the desert and roadrace, as well as ride on the street w/o ear plugs, I can't implore you enough to save your hearing and always wear ear protection)

2. Any technical discussion I've ever read (see "bobs the oil guy") all point out that the majority of normal wear happens on start-up. This is why many recommend the low weight for the "cold" part of the viscosity rating (I use "zero" weighting on my BMW and cobra replica [Ford 4 cam 4.6l mod motor), but to get the desireable JASO rating, have to settle on the 5-40 Rotella T6. I won't beat on this pedantically, so suggest you do your own research if interested.

Again, I don't profess any expertise, this is just the logic for my decision (and it may be all wrong). As they say, YMMV.
 
I run 10-40 off road ATV oil year round, I seldom put 2000 a year on any one bike. If I start hammering on a high perf XS650 motor I'll probably run 20-50 in it.

Motorcycle oils are now formulated for cat converters so I'll posit that ZDDP is out of the street bike mix, ATV's are about the only thing left that don't use a cat (yet).
 
Not sure if anyone is still paying attention to this thread anymore, but does my oil need to be motorcycle specific? The last change I put in havoline 20w50. Says it's recommended for automobile and light truck. Towing heavy loads, racing, and rallying are listed under common uses.
 
Not sure if anyone is still paying attention to this thread anymore, but does my oil need to be motorcycle specific? The last change I put in havoline 20w50. Says it's recommended for automobile and light truck. Towing heavy loads, racing, and rallying are listed under common uses.
I use motorcycle specific and for wet clutches.
Any good 20w50 or 15w40 with a JASO MA rating. A JASO MA Rating means it has been wet clutch tested and approved.
 
When I check the oil.should the dipstick be screwed in or out?

Oil level measurement
To check the level, warm the engine up
for several minutes. Stop the engine.
With the engine stopped, screw the dip
stick completely out and then rest the
stick in the hole.
When checking engine oil level with the
dip stick, position the machine straight up
and on main stand.
The dip stick has a minimum and a maximum
mark. The oil level should be
between the two. If the level is low, add
sufficient oil to raise it to the proper level.
 
Would this be OK to use? I know its danish but I hope the ratings are understandable :)

Is it like the diesel oil 15w40 alot of you are using?
The specs: ACEA E7, ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4, API CI-4/SL, MB 228.3, MAN M3275, MTU Type 2.0, Volvo VDS-3, Mack EO-N, EO-M Plus, Renault Truck RLD-2, Cummins 20076/77/78, Caterpillar ECF-2, Global DHD-1, Deutz DQC III-10.

The link
http://www.biltema.dk/da/Bilpleje/Olie-og-Smoremidler/Mineral/Turbodiesel-15W40-2000022970/
 
Great article gggGary- fully supports notions that:

1. Synthetic is better and longer lasting than non synthetic
2. Motorcycle specific oils are merely an expensive marketing gimmick and typically are based on technology older than ever advancing automotive oils (and thus do not perform as well in longevity/viscosity retention)

The article does not address the "clutch slippage" issue often associated with the use of automotive oils in motorcycles. However, I have never personally experienced clutch slippage in any street motorcycle using automotive oils, including my '99 R1 with 60,000 miles on it. I have consistently beat on this bike like a red headed step child, including a number of track days, and only switched to Rotella T6 (with the JASO rating for motorcycle clutches) in the last 10,000 miles.

Rick
 
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