UK Board Tracker Build Thread

It's just little fiddly jobs now. When the revs rise and fall I noticed that the exhaust vibrated quite a bit. I think any prolonged exposure to that will crack a weld somewhere. So, I made an aluminium strap bracket and an aluminium boss to clear the engine case.





The weather is quite nice, so taking a break and going out on the GS :)
 
Hay Paul great build, and some nice custom work too :thumbsup:
I was interested to know what kind of front brake and clutch controls your using..
and how you made the hydraulic clutch conversion
i was looking for something exactly like that

thanks

1D28AE31-B216-4458-B7F5-F9E6C8AD632C_zpszsysmdsi.jpg
 
Hi and thanks. The brake and clutch controls are generic hydraulic controls I found on line with 12mm pistons. The slave cylinder is from an Aprilia, machined down to fit the aperture on the casing. I replaced the clutch pushrod with a 300mm stainless version to compensate for the difference in position.

If you look back in the build thread you'll come across the below:

I want to make this bike have a hydraulic clutch. Looking around the appears to be two ways of accomplishing this. The first using a slave cylinder effectively in place of the cable and actuating on the clutch worm mechanism. The second uses a slave cylinder directly bolted to the case, acting directly on the clutch push rod. I favour the second method for two reasons. One, it looks better in my opinion. Two, it acts directly onto push rod, rather than through a worm mechanism.

A couple of others on this forum have written about this. I believe it was Osteoderm and Ipytatto. They used an Aprillia slave cylinder and modified the piston retaining part. I had a Rotax slave cylinder, which appeared to be very similar





I cut the "legs" off the piston retainer



Then machined it down my a millimetre or so to fit into the existing clutch adjustment aperture





It's then simple to transfer the bolt centres onto the casing



Then drill, tap and bolt on



This setup means the actuating surface on the push rod is further out than using the stock cable clutch. A brief measurement comparing the original to the hydraulic, shows around 45mm difference, so it looks like a redesigned, longer push rod is required. Once I get the engine builds ill be able to work out the lengths more exactly.
 
Hi Paul thanks for the replay and all the details, its vary informative
now im go'n start looking for some parts and try to make one too :bike:

thanks
 
Well, the tear down begins. I've pulled the exhaust, axle adjusters, gear shift, kick start and side stand. They're boxed and ready for the chromers. I'll strip the rest on Friday and start levelling the tank before it comes off with filler where required. Then it's on to welding up the frame a dressing before paint.
 
Well, the tear down begins. I've pulled the exhaust, axle adjusters, gear shift, kick start and side stand. They're boxed and ready for the chromers. I'll strip the rest on Friday and start levelling the tank before it comes off with filler where required. Then it's on to welding up the frame a dressing before paint.

Exciting! Can't wait to see it.
 
The tear down continues - the tank has been filled where there was some distortion and the frame has been welded up and filled ready for paint. A lot of extra effort but hopefully will produce a better result :)





 
Back
Top