Steering Bearing

whitey

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I could do with a bit of advice on replacing the steering head cups,The bottom on is very tight,would it be ok to heat the race before to get it to go in a little easier , or just tap away until it goes in? Also is it ok to put the races in before powdercoating,.
 
You want to freeze the race and warm the neck.
If you can trust your powder coater to not paint the insides you'll be OK installing them first.
Also make sure they don't powder coat your frame grounds or the interfaces for the swingarm.
While it isn't much some have had problems getting their swingarms back in after powdercoating.
 
Thanks for the tip ,I'll give it a go.I hope I have returned this message correctly, First time so I hope I'm doing it right="whitey, posI'll 474948, member: 24572"]I could do with a bit of advice on replacing the steering head cups,The bottom on is very tight,would it be ok to heat the race before to get it to go in a little easier , or just tap away until it goes in? Also is it ok to put the races in before powdercoating,.[/QUOTE]
You want to freeze the race and warm the neck.
If you can trust your powder coater to not paint the insides you'll be OK installing them first.
Also make sure they don't powder coat your frame grounds or the interfaces for the swingarm.
While it isn't much some have had problems getting their swingarms back in after powdercoating.
T
You want to freeze the race and warm the neck.
If you can trust your powder coater to not paint the insides you'll be OK installing them first.
Also make sure they don't powder coat your frame grounds or the interfaces for the swingarm.
While it isn't much some have had problems getting their swingarms back
I could do with a bit of advice on replacing the steering head cups,The bottom on is very tight,would it be ok to heat the race before to get it to go in a little easier , or just tap away until it goes in? Also is it ok to put the races in before powdercoating,.
Th
 
Welcome to the forum.
To install the tapered bearings, use a section of all thread with large washers, even the old races, to force in the bearings after they have been in the freezer, it's a nice controlled way of doing it.
Use the search feature here to get the whole low down.
 
I found with the threaded rod old/race/large washer method, that it was too easy for the threaded rod to wander off center, and to start and even drive the bearing in crooked. Ended up driving it in using the old race and a brass spacer and gently tapping the spacer evenly all the way around...
 
Hi whitey and welcome,
like the WER sez, freeze the ring, heat the neck.
Cold (couple of hours in the deepfreeze) shrinks the ring.
Heat (Hot air gun but don't burn the paint off) expands the bearing pocket in the steering neck.
But first! Make a hardwood centering plug so that the insertion drawbar you made from threaded rod, flat washers and hex. nuts can pull the ring in nicely square.
Note that although bearing rings are really strong once they are in place, a good whack with a hammer can crack them real easy which is why you should always squeeze them in with a press rather than bash them in with a hammer.
And yes, many have gotten away with the ol' "hammer the bastards in" trick. What are the odds that you may not be one of them?
 
Hi whitey and welcome,
like the WER sez, freeze the ring, heat the neck.
Cold (couple of hours in the deepfreeze) shrinks the ring.
Heat (Hot air gun but don't burn the paint off) expands the bearing pocket in the steering neck.
But first! Make a hardwood centering plug so that the insertion drawbar you made from threaded rod, flat washers and hex. nuts can pull the ring in nicely square.
Note that although bearing rings are really strong once they are in place, a good whack with a hammer can crack them real easy which is why you should always squeeze them in with a press rather than bash them in with a hammer.
And yes, many have gotten away with the ol' "hammer the bastards in" trick. What are the odds that you may not be one of them?
Thanks mate
 
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