Why bad handling reputation?

Didn't mean to imply that the XS650 doesn't have the potential to handle well (I wouldn't own one if it didn't), but it takes some money, time, and know-how. jd750ace, I also have a Zook SV650 in the barn, '03 nekkid model--another price-point suspension, but Race-Tech valves and springs in front, an Ohlins double-clicker in back, a pair of Pirelli Diablo Stradas, and some dial-in time straightened things out.

Got the Race Tech front, GSX-R Showa rear grafted off a '99 750, repacked by me, and re-sprung with Race Tech as well. Mine is an '02 with 68K miles on it. I am currently running Conti-Motion tires. Have found that superstock rubber is a waste of money without superstock speed and riding style. The Vortex footpegs (no feelers) drag just fine on FM813 with "commuter grade" radials. That's my "work bike". My XS is being passed on from my father, but that does not mean I would not own one of my own choosing. It's a grand old design, and the first full-size street bike I rode. :thumbsup:
 
You mean something like a woman walking along the road? :)

sex-hitchhiker-1.jpg



Honest officer I was looking where I wanted to go.
 
The BAD handling of any XS has been grossly exaggerated. I've owned a '71,'72,'74,'76 and '79 Special and have ridden them all in a very spirited manner. With decent tires and no worn out components one can ride the shit out of any of them without fear of being spit off.
Yeah, I know it's a 4 year old thread...lol.
 
Hi all: here's my $0.02 (of course, its 2 cents Canadian so its really only 1.5 cents US)....:sneaky:

I started on a '75 Honda CB360T (didn't EVERYONE have one of these old puppies?) in 1975 and it was fine, although it didn't have enough power to get me into too much trouble. I did however, put more than 60,000 miles on it without any issues. I traded in the Honda on a '75 XS650B in 1978 and wow - THAT was a pretty big bike for its day. I found the handling to be just fine - although it DID have enough power to get me into trouble (just paperwork...). As I recall it (and others have said this) the tires would usually slide well before any metal was scraping - and so I did wind up in a ditch the odd time, but the beautiful "B" never hurt me. When the Suzuki GS850G shaft drive four came out in 1979, I was in love (again) and so I traded the Yamaha in on a leftover Suzuki 850 (which from my perspective now was clearly a huge error) in late 1981. I recall that I got precisely what I had paid for the Yamaha from the same dealer I had bought it from - more than 60,000 miles before. I loved the Suzuki - but I wish I had kept the Yamaha. Nonetheless, the XS650B served me well and had a very low cost of ownership. The Suzuki had a reputation as a really good handling large motorcycle - and it was, although it was pretty heavy at more than 600 lbs wet. Once again, those late '70's tires weren't as good as the engine, brakes and frame and so....it would slide around, which was really fun with all that road-hugging weight. After the 850, I got out of bikes for 25 years until last year when I bought a 2007 Honda ST1300 (talk about power and weight...) and my 1976 XS650C, both of which I just love to ride.

The Honda has amazing linked ABS brakes and really good tires - and a frame that you could park a train on. The Yamaha...not so much...

The point is, as others have clearly said, early tires weren't really very good and neither were the drum and rather primitive disk brakes of the day. That meant that the forces those tires and brakes could generate from friction with the road were simply not very high (especially as sliding friction is much less than static friction). For that reason, 1950's, 60's and early '70's bikes would often slide before they would wobble. This tended to mask quite a few weak, or at least wonky, frames in many early bikes (hello...Kawasaki triples.....!!!.....holy crapola Batman!!!). Those darned things, especially the earliest ones, were 60-70 HP engines in 30 HP frames with 12 HP brakes, for the most part.

For us on this forum, the fact is that the early Yamaha 650's, and some other Japanese bikes, would wobble fairly easily - even on early '70's tires and crummy brakes and so those of you riding pre-'73 bikes, pretty as they are - please watch it - because modern tires will NOT slide as easily and that will put forces into your bike's frame that are much higher than it was designed for. These higher loads from modern tires will be transmitted to those early frames (that are now 40+ years old) and thus wobbling could be induced even more easily than before. I ride every week with a bunch of local guys, some of whom are mounted on beautifully restored vintage British bikes. One chap has a magnificent late 1950's BSA Gold Star 500 that he says can be rather evil on modern tires - whereas back in the 1950-60's when it was new, the Gold Star was an absolutely solid handling bike with no vices. The key point is - your only contact with the road is through the tires - and so THAT is where all the forces that can cause a wobble will come from. Basically folks, here is the physics of the situation....
  • Old tires + crummy brakes -> poor traction = low frame forces (little chance of a wobble in most cases).
  • Modern tires + crummy brakes -> good cornering & acceleration traction = high frame forces (good chance of a wobble if the frame is not strong and stiff).
  • High frame forces on a weak frame = wobbles.
Pete
 
What I reckon is the early XS650's bad rep ( overweight, pogo-forked rubber-framed top-heavy but Christ! it don't half go in a straight line, eh?)came from guys who's comparison bike was a featherbed Norton. Compared to which, they were right.
 
Yup - the early Brit bikes were much more solid than the early Japanese machines - but of course, they were usually at least a bit lighter and had less engine power and even crummier brakes - so they had lower frame forces to content with. Its the forces in the frame that makes things wobble in the night.
 
Max, this quote from Paul Thede has been offered before in this thread and I'll offer it to you: "The best you've ridden is the best you know."

There's a lot more to handling than whether or not the machine is prone to front end oscillation ("wobblies."). Front end oscillation won't be caused by frame flex unless that frame has taken some serious damage. Frame flex at the steering head can contribute to head shake (sudden deflection of the front wheel on bumps or sudden dips in corners), but that's a different matter.

There are many more performance parameters to consider--quality of damping and linearity and quickness of steering among them. But I'll offer this from my own experience (not that of guys I ride with) as a Triumph owner and BSA salesman back in the late '60's and early '70's. Even with the tires of that period, I could grind metal on any of them--including the Rocket III, which packed considerably more power and weight than the Yamaha twin. Steering response was a tad quicker on my Bonneville than on the Lightening Rocket twin, but damping on every Brit bike I rode was first rate and steering was dead linear. The only wobble I ever experienced on a Brit bike was due to a dinged front rim. Underpowered? My stock Bonnie could do any honest 115 mph.

Re. your pal with the Goldie, there's restoration and there's maintenance. A bike can be a bright, shiny, cosmetically perfect restoration and be unfit to ride, and if i had a dime for every ill-maintained big dollar restoration I've seen my net worth would take a big bounce. He might want to look at the steering head and swingarm.
 
I don't claim to be any kind of expert on handling (or anything else for that matter) but my opinion is that the bad handling reputation was always exaggerated partly because the rest of the bike was far superior to the Triumph 650 and BSA 650.
At the time Triumph and BSA were approaching bankruptcy (mainly because of Yamaha etc) and appeared to be behind some sort of scare campaign regarding the Yamaha 650.
However, much as I like the XS1, it did have bad traits regarding the "wobbles". These occurred mainly at high or very high speeds.
There were many changes even within the early models that gradually improved the handling.
By 1972, the XS2 had enough handling that some people raced it basically stock except with heavier fork oil and different shock absorbers and different tyres.
The big changes in handling occurred with the all new frame in the 1974 TX650A.
 
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Most of the AHRMA Sportsman 750 road racers who run XS650-based bikes use the stock frame, but spend a lot of time optimizing things. Later 35mm forks with Race-Tech innards and a brace, new bearings in the steering stem, upgraded swingarm pivot components, braced swingarm, remove all the frame tabs, raise foot pegs (and sometimes shift and brake levers), longer aftermarket shocks to quicken the steering accompanied by springs and damping selected for the rider's weight, reduced unsprung weight, significant time ensuring the wheel spacers result in perfectly aligned tires, etc. When done, they handle OK, even with really sticky tires. Some wobble due to flexing, but not bad. There are a lot of variables, but generally speaking if you don't jack up the rear 1 - 2" the front end will push before the tire's limit is reached. Some guys also have new triples made to add stiffness and quicken things up.
 
mine handles worse since I removed the front fender and installed shorter, stiffer shocks in the rear. not terrible, but not nearly as good as it used to. It keeps me from doing 80 mph through wide sweepers, so nice and easy rides instead. If I wanted a hot bike, I'd ride a sportbike.
 
Hi James: the reason for the deterioration is that the stout front fender on the 650 functions somewhat like a fork brace. Removing reduces the lateral (side to side) stiffness in the front and allows an additional degree of freedom. The shorter shocks would lower the rear and change the front end geometry (in the direction of slower steering) but the stiffer shock passes more road forces into the frame. Interesting how everything affects everything.
 
the bad handling rep is slightly justified but easily fixed ,new bronze s/arm bushes ,taped head bearings ,s/arm brace and will then go around courners like on rails
 
add a fork brace to that and you got a sweet carver
,I had a fork brace on as well but found with the rest of the bike tighten up the handling with the brace was to stiff and wooden ,so I took it off and found it handle very well ,the brace is better to run with no front guard
 
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