Wiring schematic advice/help...

VonFuct

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Wiring gurus, can you take a look at my latest schematic and let me know if it looks good or what may be wrong with it? Also, I'm not sure where to tie in the neutral safety switch either. Thanks in advance!
 
Neutral safety switch should be tied into the relay circuit for the starter. After your push button starter before the relay.

Is there any reason your running a capacitor and battery? I would also put a "Main" disconnect between the battery and fuse box, but that's just a personal preference. Nice diagram.
 
Neutral safety switch should be tied into the relay circuit for the starter. After your push button starter before the relay.

Is there any reason your running a capacitor and battery? I would also put a "Main" disconnect between the battery and fuse box, but that's just a personal preference. Nice diagram.

Thanks much! The bike was set up as a kick only on a capacitor but I'm adding the battery to the mix again to make use of the e-start so I figured I'd just leave the cap in as a cheap insurance policy in case something ever goes bad with the battery. Is that crazy? Everyone keeps asking about why I'm running both.

i did have my kill switch planned for in between my battery and fuse box but moved it to the coil. Should I move it back or run two switches?
 
Neutral safety switch should be tied into the relay circuit for the starter. After your push button starter before the relay.

Is there any reason your running a capacitor and battery? I would also put a "Main" disconnect between the battery and fuse box, but that's just a personal preference. Nice diagram.
If you want to be able to use the starter motor while in any gear (handy when you stall while crossing an intersection) do not connect the neutral switch into the starter relay wiring.
Also the starter relay coil is shown with ground on both ends, which is not going to work.

The capacitor serves no purpose at all. Batteries are very reliable.If the battery fails after 5 to 8 years, just buy another one.
You should have a voltmeter shown on your wiring. You need to monitor for voltage swings, as the PMA (200 watts ? ) is too much wattage for the loads on the bike, which may only be 70 to 100 watts. The regulator will have to try to dissipate 100+ watts. If the regulator can't handle the excessive current, then the stator and the bike loads will see abnormal high voltage.
 
If you want to be able to use the starter motor while in any gear (handy when you stall while crossing an intersection) do not connect the neutral switch into the starter relay wiring.
Also the starter relay coil is shown with ground on both ends, which is not going to work.

The capacitor serves no purpose at all. Batteries are very reliable.If the battery fails after 5 to 8 years, just buy another one.
You should have a voltmeter shown on your wiring. You need to monitor for voltage swings, as the PMA (200 watts ? ) is too much wattage for the loads on the bike, which may only be 70 to 100 watts. The regulator will have to try to dissipate 100+ watts. If the regulator can't handle the excessive current, then the stator and the bike loads will see abnormal high voltage.

Thanks. So the ground on the starter relay, what should be changed to correct?

When you say the capacitor serves no purpose, is that because I have it wired in wrong or because you don't see the need for it with a properly charging system? My thought was it's a cheap way to make sure I can still start it and get home in case the battery does ever run low for some reason (multiple starts on short rides, forgetting to turn off the power, charging the phone while parked, etc). And yes, I know those issues can and should be avoided but I also know that shit happens.

Are you saying install a permanent voltmeter to the bike? I only ask because I've never seen one on an custom XS before to the best of my knowledge. I'm currently not running any gauges or meters but I am thinking of adding an oil temp thermometer as well as a small tach possibly. Doesn't a properly working reg/rec protect the bike from the excess wattage?
 
Thanks. So the ground on the starter relay, what should be changed to correct?

When you say the capacitor serves no purpose, is that because I have it wired in wrong or because you don't see the need for it with a properly charging system? My thought was it's a cheap way to make sure I can still start it and get home in case the battery does ever run low for some reason (multiple starts on short rides, forgetting to turn off the power, charging the phone while parked, etc). And yes, I know those issues can and should be avoided but I also know that shit happens.

Are you saying install a permanent voltmeter to the bike? I only ask because I've never seen one on an custom XS before to the best of my knowledge. I'm currently not running any gauges or meters but I am thinking of adding an oil temp thermometer as well as a small tach possibly. Doesn't a properly working reg/rec protect the bike from the excess wattage?
The starter relay must have +12 volts on one side and ground on the other side, in order to operate the relay.

I've operated motorcycles for 25 years and I've never had a battery fail while I was out riding. However, if you feel you need a capacitor, then sure use the capacitor.

Yes, add a permanent voltmeter. Its very important on these old bikes. Its gives you advance warning before you are left stranded on the side of the road. Its not the battery that you should be worried about, its the PMA and the rec/reg unit that can fail. They are low quality parts made in China. You don't need an oil temperature gauge, but you do need a speedometer.

Yes, a good quality rec/reg and stator should work just fine. However you don't have a good quality charging system; you have a low quality charging system (I'm guessing you bought from Mikesxs, HHB , TCBros, or one of the other aftermarket sellers). If you wanted a good quality charging system, you would have to buy Japanese parts or use the stock alternator with modern rectifier and regulator.

What is the wattage of your headlight, taillight and the other light you show?
 
On a side note, what gauge wire is required where? I have a bunch of new 16 gauge cloth covered wire that I planned on using most places but what circuits will need larger gauge and what gauge should I use (battery to starter, battery to fuse block, battery, frame and motor grounds, etc)?
 
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