Stalls when I put it in gear.

You said you replaced the clutch plates. What plates did you use? There were two different ones used, early and late. Early ones were 3.5mm thick, later ones only 3mm thick. You should have the 3mm thick ones. If you put earlier spec 3.5mm thick friction plates in there, that could be the problem. The indications are your clutch isn't releasing or disengaging when you pull the lever in. If the pressure plate is moving out then it should be. I guess another problem could be badly notched slots in the basket that the plate tabs fit into. The plate tabs are supposed to slide back and forth in those slots but maybe yours can't.

When you pull the lever in and the pressure plate moves out, can you pull on any of the plate tabs and get the plates to slide out a little too?
 
He also replaced the pressure plate screws. Too long and he could be locking the baskets together.
 
Yeah, when I pull the clutch, I can see the plates separating. These are the plates I bought.
 

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I am grasping at straws here - If a bike stands for a long time the friction plates can dry a bit at the top where they are not covered with oil. When you put it in gear the clutch will grab and stall the engine the first couple of times. Mine took about five minutes to completely settle down after soaking them in oil overnight. But you replaced the friction plates - Did you soak the plates in oil over night before installation and then smother them in oil as you rebuilt the clutch? If not then the clutch will be very dry. Second straw - The outermost push rod on the left should have the thinner machined end located in the clutch worm mechanism. If all is correct then you may just need to ride the clutch a few times with the brake on to get the oil flowing between the plates.

My preferred alternative plan - I have been in a similar situation like this where there was much doubt and confusion in my mind so I drained the oil into a clean container for reuse, removed the right hand cover and stripped the clutch down. It is not a big job, just a bit messy with the oil. You could then make all the checks as suggested above e.g. push out all push rods and add up the ball bearings, thoroughly check those new Allen screws and make sure they match the dimensions of the old screws. In fact I would ditch the Allen screws for now and reassemble with the old ones. Those phillips types are alright to use, it is just that you often need an impact driver with the correct sized tip fitted to remove them. If the plates were not soaked then cover them in oil with a couple of nails to keep them separated for several hours or overnight.

Good Luck
 
Thanks Paul. Yes I actually soaked the plates for two days before installing. I am at my wits end with trying to figure this out. When I hold the clutch in and drop it into first, the bike jumps in gear and stalls the engine while the clutch is still pulled in. I can see the clutch plates separating and the clutch plate moving out when I press the clutch. I don't understand why it's not engaging. The only thing I haven't done completely yet is take the baskets out. Do I need some sort of tool to take the basket out? It appears as though the basket has been tore apart before from what I'm assuming because the lock washer behind the big nut is only crimped down on one side. Wouldn't they have done both sides from factory?
 
No, they only folded one side up. Do check your new Allen clutch screws, maybe they're too long like WER said. The usual length used is 40mm, 45mm stick out the back of the hub too much .....

AllCompared.jpg


All-Installed.jpg
 
Now THAT is a great post with really useful info about those clutch screws.

Pete
 
This is probably a dumb question but would the screws being too long like lock the baskets together or something? I haven't checked them yet. Will be working on it all day Monday, and why would they sell 45mm screws in the adaptors knowing their too long?
 
Hntg4evr read this thread. Now if they are a bit longer it could be the pressure of the screw wouldn't let the inner basket rotate freely or at all.
A similar problem can happen with the generator brush block. Same diameter screws with two different lengths. If swapped the longer screws will lock the rotor so it doesn't turn or doesn't turn freely.
 
Metric fasteners come in standard lengths in 5 mm increments. It's easy to get one that is 5 mm too long - or even 10 mm, and while in some applications, it isn't a problem, in others, it is critical.

Pete
 
If you still have the rusted plates you removed then one can be easily converted into a clutch basket/boss removal tool, or buy one. The following video shows the use of one at the start:


I enjoy this guy's videos very much and there is another on reassembling the clutch - who is he???

To make your own tool you will need to weld a locking handle on so it looks like a frying pan. Instead of welding make the handle bit shaped like a capital "T" so you can get a couple of bolts through it. This tool is great but when I didn't have one I put the bike in gear, jammed the rear brake on very tight. Releasing the nut was easy this way but the tool is very good for retightening the nut and setting the torque which is harder than you may think using the rear brake method above. The problem is due to the slack in the system from gear box to chain to brakes.

Almost all of my ideas come from this forum - thank you everyone.
 
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