I... Am... DUMB. Front forks question... *sigh*

M

madjap

XS650 Addict
Messages
378
Reaction score
51
Points
28
Location
edgemont, sd
I CANNOT wrap my head around this for some reason... I've torn my front forks all apart (that's not the problem), I have all the parts (not the problem), everything is clean and ready for new seals (not the problem). When all assembled and working correctly; WHAT KEEPS THE FORK TUBE FROM SLIDING OUT OF THE LOWER LEG? I have the Clymer manual, but I can't seem to GRASP the concept... So, explain to me WHAT PART hits WHAT PART and keeps the forks from sliding out while I'm pulling a wheelstand down main street??? Grrrrrrr... dumb.
 
The damper rod slides inside the inner tube and won't go through the bottom. It then bolts through the end of the lower fork leg. That's what limits the travel of the tube inside the leg. It doesn't look like it in the diagrams in the manual
 
The damper rod hangs out of the bottom of the fork tube but won't come all the way out because it's top section is a larger diameter than the rest of the rod. Once you insert the fork tube and damper rod down into the lower, the Allen bolt on the bottom screws up into the bottom of the damper rod. This holds all the parts together.
 
5twins said:
The damper rod hangs out of the bottom of the fork tube but won't come all the way out because it's top section is a larger diameter than the rest of the rod. Once you insert the fork tube and damper rod down into the lower, the Allen bolt on the bottom screws up into the bottom of the damper rod. This holds all the parts together.
Click to expand...

OK! THANK YOU 5twins and SurlyBoy...! Now I got it... Maybe I can get some sleep tonite. Jeez o peet...!
 
Snapseed.jpg
 
That pic nicely illustrates the need to flush out the lowers. Like a cold engine oil change, only the oil comes out and all the sludge is left behind.
 
5twins said:
That pic nicely illustrates the need to flush out the lowers. Like a cold engine oil change, only the oil comes out and all the sludge is left behind.
Click to expand...

LOL, that's when I first took them apart. I let them drain for 2 days, rinsed with purple cleaner and then disassembled them. Took several more rinses and soaking and brushing...........to get them clean.
I had to use a long rod with a patch to get in the bottoms of the stanchions. Nasty smellers
 
FWIW I did a set of 10 year old Yamaha FJR forks last month. I swear they use fish based oil Pee-U. With 48K on the clock forks were full of aluminum sludge. fully disassembled, flushed, rebuilt with new bushings, seals, dust seals, oil now. littlebill I'll say it again; it's great to have you back on the forum! Nice video!
 
Tubes should be fully depressed so the damper is seated in that cup when tightening the bolts, alignment between the damper and cup is critical, offset a tiny amount and the damper can stick in the cup at full travel.
 
This is great info and a very helpful video littlebill! I am ashamed to admit that of all the things I have done on my bikes over the years, I have not yet been inside the forks on any of them.
:notworthy:
Yikes!
 

Similar threads

F
SR500 Forks extension options
Replies
5
Views
680
arcticXS
A
Flash1977
+4 front forks opinions wanted
Replies
3
Views
717
jpdevol
jpdevol
ssjody
Overcharging Alternator on XS650SH
2
Replies
23
Views
847
Jim
Jim
MaxPete
The Big Sue resto-mod thread
2 3 4
Replies
72
Views
2K
MaxPete
MaxPete
G
Seized forks
Replies
4
Views
850
jonesey
jonesey
Back
Top