Excellent! (although the term "happy ending" does have a different meaning....in certain contexts).

Daniel - yeah, others may disagree, but in my experience, nearly all air cooled engines (particularly when they get warm) use a bit of oil and that sort of consumption rate doesn't sound bad to me at all.

I'd check out the thread just sent by Mailman to see if there are any tips on getting a better test result - but for now, I wouldn't worry too much about it.
 
Usually a compression problem will show up with one cylinder being way different to the other. try lifting the slides manually or prop them open, before doing the test.
 
Thanks, all. Numbers are no better with the slides propped and I think I hit all the tricks for a higher reading.

As Pete says, she runs decently enough, no reason to worry myself about it. I'm adding a set of pistons, rings, and a re-bore to the Phase III savings goal so I'll be prepared for it when the time comes.
 
Hmmmmm....well, that proves one thing for sure: these old XS engines are tough pieces of equipment.

Anyhow - you`ve got a plan now Daniel and so I would just keep on riding with your friend Stella until she really says that she`s too tired (she`ll be come hard to start, power will really drop and oil consumption will become excessive) and then you can give her a new lease on life.

Pete
 
I've been limping along on the stock rectifier. It works, but I don't trust it for going out of town.

The modern rectifier has been on my shelf awaiting the correct moment. With plans for an electrical overhaul in the works, I really didn't want to install the rectifier twice.

So today I decided to start getting my shipping list together and with some poking and prodding amongst the wiring a spark plug lead feel off in my hand. Ick. All green and fuzzy in there.
IMG_20170224_163656151_HDR.jpg

Would y'all please point me toward replacements? Looking at replacing the coil, leads, caps. Whole shebang as part of the greater overhaul.

The Boyer Micro Power blue box ignition is doing well, and I plan to keep it. Along with the stock alternator.
 
I'll leave it to others to advise you on the high tension leads Daniel.

However, I would like to point out that your fuel lines from the carbs appear to have taken on a permanent "set" - which means that they have assumed the shape in which they are installed when the tank is in-place. Obviously, I can't tell from here if that is the case, but to me that suggests that they may be hardened....and possibly about to begin leaking.

Just a thought....
 
Sorry - missed your post above DB - glad to hear that about the fuel lines.

I will be very keen to learn how the Boyer system works for you.
 
I'd look at trying to seal the rain boots on the coil. That green is water contamination. imho.
 
Yup - I would agree. I'd say that looks like the copper in the brass HT lead ends oxidizing - and copper oxide does not conduct electricity.

...hard to imagine water getting into anything on a bike that lives in ARIZona though.....:shrug:
 
Well, we did see three days of the wet stuff last week.

Looking into cleaning and testing this coil. It'd be great to keep it in service.
 
I use dielectric grease on ALL high tension lead connections and I've never had any difficulties with corrosion,.

As for your dreadful weather....3 days of wet stuff - oh dear me! :yikes:

Perhaps you'll forgive me if I don't feel too sorry for you and Mailman......;)
 
A bit of baking soda slurry fixed that coil right up. Resistance now checks OK on the primaries and secondaries. Good, I've got other things to sink some cash into other than a new coil.

Yes, a dab of dielectric grease here and there does well. Perhaps we don't get as much rain as others, but wash day involves a garden hose.
 
One thing leads to another. Ain't no turning back now.

When she's all put together again, I should have some pretty good commuter's functionality.

I very much don't like running on only one taillight without redundancy. Turn signals will be normally solid on as running lights (rear lenses must go red). They'll also all blink as hazards, with a turn signal temporarily cancelling the hazard on the opposite side.

I'm installing relays for the main power, headlamp, and horn. Incandescents(except headlight) are going to LED. Switches and many wires will see very little amperage and LEDs handle vibration better than filaments.

Stock items to be cut: brake lining switch, light checker & its resistor, reserve lighting unit, flasher cancelling unit, reed switch, headlight failure indicator, tail/brake light failure indicator.

A digital voltmeter will be put in place of the brake light failure indicator.

Stock switches, lamp housings, alternator, full-size AGM lead-acid battery. Modern solid-state regulator and rectifier. Existing Boyer Bransden Micro Power blue box ignition and low resistance coil. Upgraded horn, headlight. Just about all new wiring and connectors.

I see Jayel hasn't been around since the summer. Any other resident wiring diagram artists out there?

IMG_20170225_162751999_HDR.jpg
 
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