No spark at the plugs

jayel said:
you also have a clutch switch on the lever, black/yellow and black, have you cleaned the kill switch? could be passing/showing voltage but no current/amps
Click to expand...
I have cleaned the switch and made sure the connectors inside the headlight housing are clean. I have a .2 ohm reading with the clutch lever pulled and infinity with the clutch lever released. Any idea exactly what this is telling me?

Oh, by the way, still no spark, clutch lever pulled or released.

Jerry
 
after looking at the wiring dia. think the clutch wouldn't allow the starter to run if it was bad or in off mode, you tested the ign. pickup on the stator but is the little round magnet embedded in the face or the rotor still in place? there are a couple of threads about replacing this magnet with a Radio Shack up grade
 

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Yes, I tested the pickup coil leads as per XSLeo's recomm. They checked out. I also removed the pickup coil and made sure the magnets were in place and clean along with the rotor.

Thanks,
Jerry
 
I ran into this last week. First i had a fried big resistor in a TCI box. I had good primary coil readings, no secondary coil readings. Got a new coil and used a second TCI box that I had to get her running...but she seemed to be missing on one side. Switched the wires to the opposite spark plug and it was no longer missing.

The interesting thing though was that the first coil which didn't have a good secondary reading with the plug wires on....it read fine once i removed the plug wires (which were brand new). I reused the same plug wires and got the bike running with the new coil and TCI. However, just as I was about to take for a test ride I bumped the right side plug wire...the bike killed and now she won't fire and blows the main fuse when I turn the bike to on. I'm fairly certain that I've got a bad plug wire and it may be grounding to the frame somewhere. I to might just go with a pemco setup instead.

Just saying it might be worth trying a different set of plug wires before throwing away your old coils.
 
Capt. Zoom,

Thanks for the input. I read about your problems on the TCI forensics thread.

With everything I have done, next inline is replacing the transistor and the four diodes in the TCI that seem to cause some people problems, even though they test and look good. I figure what the hell, can't hurt at this point. Not sure whether I will replace the Zener diode mentioned in a few posts. If this doesn't work, Pamco for me. Just hope Mikessx is correct on their estimate of having the Auto Advance Rods in by December or I will be able to find one elsewhere.

Jerry
 
Yes, that appears to be the correct advancer rod. You also need the parts that are shown on the right end of my picture.............. slotted disk, ATU backing plate with nut, bobweights. A Haynes manual shows how they go together.

Try asking the seller if he has the other parts.
 

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I am a believer. I installed the Pamco and I now have spark. I am waiting for the slotted disc to arrive in order finalize the install and get her running.

Hopefully it will be soon.
Jerry
 
Yep, kinda figured that would cure the problem from other suggestions. Hard headed Dutchman as my Mom use to call me. Had to try to fix the TCI first. In hindsight, which is always 20/20, wish I would have saved the time, effort and money and went straight with the Pamco from doing the troubleshooting tree.

Jerry
 
My 83 was running yesterday and now I have an occasional spark sometimes and sometimes have nothing. Any ideas? I checked the connections on the coil and the tci box.
 
If your bike still has the original 4 position fuse panel, they cause a lot of electrical problems, similar to what you have. They can look to be normal, but the clips get weak and oxidize, resulting in an intermittant high resistance. Replace them with new automotive blade type fuse holders.
 
Hntg4evr said:
My 83 was running yesterday and now I have an occasional spark sometimes and sometimes have nothing. Any ideas? I checked the connections on the coil and the tci box.
Click to expand...

Those resistor spark plug caps have about 6 connections inside them, counting the resistor itself, that can corrode, tarnish and work intermittently or not at all. I've disassembled and cleaned them before, only to have the innermost connection to have no connection at all. If your caps and wires are old replace them.

This is a 6 year old thread, it's just awful to start reading it from the beginning only to find out that it is 6 years old. It's much better to start a new thread than to add on to an old two page thread.

Scott
 
Thanks retired gentleman, where can I get a replacement box? Mr wowheel..I can't figure out how to start a new thread. I'm using my phone and can't figure out how to, believe me I wish I could
 
:umm::shrug:I don't use a phone, POST NEW THREAD, it should be there somewhere. Probably at the top of the page of every forum, like the top of the page of THE GARAGE.
 

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