If you're using aftermarket signals then yes, it would go there. Stock would be dark green for the one side and dark brown for the other.
Time for an ohm meter to trace down your grounds....checking for continuity.

Ok will run that test in a little and let you know what side is shorted to ground.
 
When you trouble shoot electrical circuits, you do it by a process of elimination. First try splitting the problem area in half.
Unplug either the 2 left signals or the 2 right signals, then put in a new fuse. Test again to see which half is at fault.
 
When testing for continuity have the power/Ignition/Battery disconnected, switched off. Set the meter to Ohms, and the lowest setting

Untangle all the wires,

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Tested both sides independently of each other and both sides where blowing fuses. So will run the test with a multi meter tomorrow.
 
Tested both sides independently of each other and both sides where blowing fuses. So will run the test with a multi meter tomorrow.
OK, that means the short circuit to ground is in a common part of the circuit. A couple of places to look at are the turn signal switch itself and the turn signal indicator light on the centre dash. Open up the turn signal switch and have a close look at it, as sometimes they come apart inside. The turn signal indicator bulb is wired directly across both the dark green and the dark brown wires, so if the bulb or socket has failed it would short out both left and right sides.
 
OK, that means the short circuit to ground is in a common part of the circuit. A couple of places to look at are the turn signal switch itself and the turn signal indicator light on the centre dash. Open up the turn signal switch and have a close look at it, as sometimes they come apart inside. The turn signal indicator bulb is wired directly across both the dark green and the dark brown wires, so if the bulb or socket has failed it would short out both left and right sides.

Ok, I checked the bulb in the turn signal indicator and its fine no issues. So my question now is how do I check the socket? Also what should I look for inside of the turnsignal switch to know if it is messed up. Right now when I try the turn signal nothing happened except every couple of times hitting the turn signal switch back and forth the flasher relay will click for a second with no fuse blowing, but that is it. Could this issue be also something todo with the turn signal switch needing to be grounded to the Handel bars. My Handel bars are painted black, so could that cause an issue?
 
Also I noticed that when I depress the brake lever front and rear. The brake light does work, but the lights on the dash like the brake tail light indicator and the neutral light indicator both dim a little. So could this point to a possible issue?
 
Do you have or make some "jumper wires" ? Paper clip like noses to start poking around with ? Or a simple test light poker ? Signal wires and switch could use some poking around for power check this way ? The switch will make sense when you look deeper into it .. flashlight helped me . My switch required cleaning with Q tip etc and electrical cleaner.
 
Do you have an extra car battery that you can jumper to the bike so that you can be certain that you have enough power and not just a weak battery while testing? I use my lawn mower battery, cheap and easy to remove and reinstall.

Scott
 
Do you have an extra car battery that you can jumper to the bike so that you can be certain that you have enough power and not just a weak battery while testing? I use my lawn mower battery, cheap and easy to remove and reinstall.

Scott

I plugged up a car battery to my bike not running and it did nothing. Should I test it again with the bike running?
 
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I was looking through the manual and found some stuff on acid levels in my battery. My levels look to be low but I'm not sure, should I add distilled water?
 
Yes distilled water. Only distilled water ever in a battery. Try searching "painted handlebars", you may find that there is a ground in each of the switches that need to touch bare metal.
 
Yes, use distilled water to bring levels up then trickle charge battery with an automatic charger.
Wouldn't hurt to then take it to an auto parts store and get them to load test it.

Edit: lol, looks like we posted at the same time Mackels.
 
Thanks, I'm thinking this maybe the issue. Because the turn signals worked before I stripped the bike and wired everything wrong, so I'm assuming this will be something to do with the battery. My only question though is that my electric starter is still working fine on my painted bars, so I'm thinking that my painted bars are not really an issue. Also if my electric starter is working would that mean my battery is put out enough power to run the turn signals or does it not work like that?
 
For turn signals to work, you do not need the turn signal switch itself to be grounded to the bars. However, you do need the switch grounded to make the starter push button able to work. A black ground comes from the headlight bucket into the turn signal switch. That same ground must connect to bare metal on the handle bar. The handlebar then carries the ground over to the starter push button switch. So, yes if there is paint on the handlebars, you need to scrape it down to bare metal under the turn signal switch and under the starter push button switch.

I'm not clear on what type of new turn signals you are using. Also I don't know how a 522 flasher works. The cheap and dirty stock flasher relay needs the 27 watt bulbs (#1156) to draw high current. If you are using something less than 27 watt bulbs, then I hope you have bought the correct flasher relay. Low current bulbs and LED's need a specific flasher relay that will work with the low current draw.

All testing requires a fully charged battery. If you have low water level, the battery will be suffering and can not be fully charged until the water level is correct.
 
If your battery is putting out enough for your starter certainly enough juice to power turn signals.
 
Thanks, I'm thinking this maybe the issue. Because the turn signals worked before I stripped the bike and wired everything wrong, so I'm assuming this will be something to do with the battery. My only question though is that my electric starter is still working fine on my painted bars, so I'm thinking that my painted bars are not really an issue. Also if my electric starter is working would that mean my battery is put out enough power to run the turn signals or does it not work like that?
Yes, if the electric starter works from the push button, that means the handlebars are grounded. Also if the battery has the power to crank the engine normally, that means the battery is in good condition capacity wise.
If your flasher relay is the thermal type, the battery can be fully charged (12.5 volts), and yet the 12.5 volts may not be high enough to operate the flasher relay. Stock type thermal flasher relays sometimes need 13 volts in order to make the flashers work.

I tossed out my stock thermal flasher relay years ago, as it became a safety problem. It would sometimes stop flashing when I was sitting waiting to turn at an intersection......................very dangerous. I now use a Tridon HD12 flasher, because it will reliably flash the signals with voltage down low such as 12.0 or even 11 volts.
 
Yes, if the electric starter works from the push button, that means the handlebars are grounded. Also if the battery has the power to crank the engine normally, that means the battery is in good condition capacity wise.
If your flasher relay is the thermal type, the battery can be fully charged (12.5 volts), and yet the 12.5 volts may not be high enough to operate the flasher relay. Stock type thermal flasher relays sometimes need 13 volts in order to make the flashers work.

I tossed out my stock thermal flasher relay years ago, as it became a safety problem. It would sometimes stop flashing when I was sitting waiting to turn at an intersection......................very dangerous. I now use a Tridon HD12 flasher, because it will reliably flash the signals with voltage down low such as 12.0 or even 11 volts.

I'm running a 552 flasher relay for just some after market turnsignals. I read online that other people have used these turn signals with the 552 flasher relay and had success on the xs650. I'm going to check more of the electricals later to see what is up and also make sure my battery is all good to go. Will let everyone know if I find anything.
 
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