What have you done to your XS today?

"Pack says M10 - A2 if the A2 means anything."

A2 and A4 or 304 / 316 are different grades of stainless steel.
 
1.25 pitch is hard to find - that's why they cost $$$ from the moto guys one at a time. 1.5 thread pitch is what you get from mcmaster etc in 10 packs.
 
Bought a 10 pack of domed M10 nuts to replace the rusty 4 on my exhaust header clamps. They don't fit - rats. They screw on a few turns but that's it. Pack says M10 - A2 if the A2 means anything. Can anyone tell me what I should get please?
A2 is the thread class for English threads (but that's external so ?), metric thread class is like 6H/6g. M10 x 1.5, or M10 x 1.25, or M10 x .75 are your standards. You probably just got the wrong pitch. Sometimes MikesXS will provide the thread information. Sorry I don't have the answer for your exact need/application
 
Another, and hopefully last, box of misc. frame parts off to the powder coater. with any kind of luck I should get everything back including the wheels by the end of next week and will be able to start hanging parts back on the frame.
 
Fastenal has them Bright Zinc plated but not over 50mm in length.
 
I've had luck at Ace locally, but buy online @ Mr Metric

Hey halfmile, I see a HarborFreight blast gun in your garage. I have one also that I haven't used and a 50# bag of XL material holding my grinder down. Does it work?
 
No Idea. I haven`t used mine either. I just bought this to get into some tight places around the steering neck etc before I weld in new gussets. Scrambler project is on hold for the next couple weeks while I do all of last falls yard work that I didn`t do last fall?
 
harbor freight sand blaster is only as good as the cfm s on your compressor. That's why they are always on craigslist - we all thought we were saving money by spending $100 on a blast cabinet only to find out we need to spend another $2000 on a new compressor.
 
1.25 pitch is hard to find - that's why they cost $$$ from the moto guys one at a time. 1.5 thread pitch is what you get from mcmaster etc in 10 packs.

Not sure this will work but something to look into:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Chrome-...ash=item543f6b19a7:g:eyAAAOSwB09YPLpW&vxp=mtr

These are the 10mm 1.25 thread that I think is needed but note that they are tapered seat nuts. If I was going to need that size I would buy these and chuck them in the lathe and machine a nice flat surface on them where they contact the exhaust flange.

But to be totally honest I would probably just use a non-acorn nut for much less money. Something like these:

https://www.mcmaster.com/#95108a103/=16ozqc6

$7.40 for a bag of 50!

That and a little high heat silver paint and be good to go.
 
Bought a 10 pack of domed M10 nuts to replace the rusty 4 on my exhaust header clamps.

Another thought. Have you tried to clean up the old ones? Sometimes its amazing how well a fine brass wire wheel chucked up in a Dremel or drill chuck on a motor shaft will clean away the rust on chromed fasteners. Worth a shot.
 
harbor freight sand blaster is only as good as the cfm s on your compressor. That's why they are always on craigslist - we all thought we were saving money by spending $100 on a blast cabinet only to find out we need to spend another $2000 on a new compressor.

These are hand held units and cost $20..not a cabinet, but thanks for the info as I almost bought one.
 
Rmoved a mix screw that was not getting me 3 turns out. After chewing away at the slot, i had to hack saw a new bite for a slotted screw driver. Got it out, tossed in a mix screw from a spair set of 34's. Waiting for the batt to charge for dead cylinder tuning.. stupid orphan bike sucking up all my good spare parts.
Tomorrow i yank the legs for polishing. If i had a nickel......
 

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Now that the battery is charged, it's popping and snapping on the left side. Dirty pilot i assume. Dang...i just put the air boxes back on. Oh well.
 
I cross drilled my front rotor and finished up the new stainless brake lines today. I got some cobalt bits to drill the rotor. I have a 45 hole pattern and modeled it up in CAD first. I used and index table in the mill and all when pretty well. With the proper tooling, correct tool speed and lots of lube, it went way better than I thought it would. Here are a few pictures:
Mounted up in the index table
IMG_0229.JPG

1/8" pilot holes drilled:
IMG_0231.JPG

Finished rotor:
IMG_0232.JPG

Installed:
IMG_0233.JPG

I'm not sure if this will make any noticeable difference in braking, but it sure looks damn cool!
 
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Last night was tank etch and allowed to dry overnight:eek:. Now the liner was poured in and spread around in the tank:confused:. Drained excess liner. I'll do that a time or two more and the instructions says to let it dry for 4 days in a well ventalated area:doh:. So Friday I can go rideing again?! :lmao: :bike:
 
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