'81-Build Thread-The Handover

Figured this would work better, lol.
Off set in case the upper jug sleeves push down.

IMG_1548.JPG
 
Hey, littlebill. You've got the right idea. I find it amazing that this simple, standard procedure doesn't have any decent, appropriate pics on the web. Would take me a little time to stage mock-up pics, so let's try with what I've been able to find.

These pics show a 400cc sleeve removal. Cylinder is propped up with milling machine clamp bars, with room to allow the sleeves to drop. Place in oven at 350°F-400°F for about 30 minutes.
SleeveService02.jpg

Usually you'll hear them *clunk* when they drop out.
This fellow placed heavy plates atop the sleeves to speedup the dropout.
SleeveService03.jpg

Installing is the reverse. Prop up the cylinder block so there's enuff room for the sleeves to protrude and dangle below. Oven heat at 350°F for 15-30 minutes.
SleeveService01.jpg

Some would recommend first chilling the sleeves, not a bad idea.
Then drop in the sleeves.
Ensure that the flange notch (if it exists) aligns with the hollow dowel location.
XS1B-CylinderDowel01.jpg XS1B-CylinderDowel02.jpg

Now, the important part. While the cylinders are still hot and propped up, lay a heavy plate atop the cylinders. This should prevent "sleeve creep", the tendancy for the sleeve to work its way up/out during cooling. Let the cylinder slowly cool to room temperature.

For your slipped sleeve, simply do as above. Be sure to have the cylinder block propped up, with the sleeves dangling below. Heat to 350°F-400°F for about 30 minutes, and place that heavy plate atop the cylinders. May need to lightly tap on the plate to get the sleeve to move and seat.

You can use equal-length deep sockets, equal width plates, pieces of pipe, milling machine clamp bars, ...etc. I used plates from the hydraulic press. I wouldn't recommend using lumber.

New replacement sleeves have a thicker flange, and will protrude above the surface. This requires decking/milling of the cylinders as the next process.

A forum search on "sleeve creep" yields more info...
 
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I guess the 3 ft/lbs was too much for the M6 bolts on my front cam chain guide.
Stripped like it was cool. The top tightened fine to 6.5, bottom spun at 3. Brand new form Mikes.
 
I find this very unfortunate, not only because MikesXS products are generally shit but more importantly, because the originals have recently shot way, way up in price. I have a Mike's guide in my motor but it was purchased near 10 years ago. It bolted in fine but I don't doubt the new ones are different. I'm hoping the near doubling in price for an original will come back down once they do another production run. We can only hope I guess. It almost makes rebuilding one of these hardly worth it. Unfortunately, most need that rebuild.
 
Welp, I'm giving up. I've spent too much time and money and this fucking thing is still fighting me. I'd rather be riding my good bike.
I'll work on it next winter.
 
The whole frame is spray painted. So it needs to be stripped. Swingarm...stripped. Triple trees...stripped. Engine mounts....stripped. Wheels.....stripped.
Since the hack chopped off the tail, I need to weld on a hoop.
Just too much right now.
Im gonna pile it in the corner, top it off with a foam trucker hat and call it done.
 
Yes the hacking and chopping cycle is coming full circle. I remember threads from lads saying the same thing happened with the early Triumphs. Guys buy them and then weld the missing tail back on, to get back to a stock frame.
 
My other bikes are complete and I won't cut them. But this one came like this. A cut tail without a hoop looks cheap and trashy and incomplete. Hack job.
 
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