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One Hundred Twenty Seven Days! That's how long I've had this bike. I have worked very nearly every weekend on it. Every chance I got I was out in the garage working on it. When I wasn't working on it, I was planning what my next move would be, researching, reading threads on this forum and others until my eyes were bleeding. Asking questions and seeking advice from those more experienced than myself.
Today was the first time I was able to take it out and just ride it like a motorcycle. Still not perfect but I feel like I could actually go for a ride somewhere and not get myself in trouble. Haha!

Today I started out by pulling my tank off and removing my old throttle cable and replacing it with a new Motion Pro cable. I cleaned and lubricated the throttle housing and drip oiled my new cable. I then was very careful about installing it exactly the way the factory assembly manual shows how to.
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Next up I wanted to change out my main jets for one size up to try and rid myself of the lean condition that I believe is causing me so much grief. 5Twins had told me that they could be changed without removing the carbs by just removing the drain screws and replacing them from the bottom. Cool idea, I'm all about less work, except I didn't have a short blade flat screwdriver with a narrow enough blade to reach the jets. So plan B, I decided to drop the bowls and install the jets on the bench.

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Pulling them wasn't too hard, getting them back on wasn't so much fun. I dropped a screw down in never never land between the frame and the motor and had to fool around trying to retrieve the screw.

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Also the inside screws had to be installed totally blind. I had to use a dental mirror just to align the screw.

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Jets are now installed, and I also richened up the air mixture screws by 1/2 turn.

So I fired it up. It now starts easily and idles steady. I warmed it up and went for a ride. My hanging RPM'S is for the most part gone. It rides and shifts and idles SO much better, with the larger jetting it also feels like it has more power and accelerates harder. I said the hanging RPM'S were mostly gone and that is true, it only occurred a couple times. Usually when I came to a stop after running hard, a quick twist of the throttle brought it right down.
I cannot overstate how much better behaved the bike feels now. What a difference a week makes!
When I got back home I wanted to test a couple things. The charging is spot on, I put a multi meter on it and it is charging perfectly at idle and increasing with rpm. Beautiful!
I also checked the timing. Again , right on at idle, but for some reason , still not advancing fully at 3,000 rpm.
I have not yet installed my Pamco E Advancer, but it's on my bench ready to go..

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I think I'm just going to ride it for a little while to see if it smooths out a little before installing it. All in all I'm very happy with the way things are improving. Thanks to everyone that has offered moral support when I was getting discouraged.
Still to come steering head bearings, swing arm bushings, E Advancer, and, and,and....
Until next time,
Bob
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For my title and registration I used a title service a few blocks from home. An extra $25, but I was in and out in five minutes and I didn't have to wait for a number to be called.
 
To make life easier when removing the float bowls, replace those 4 phillip head bolts (8 total) with allen head bolts. Phillip heads are the worst screw head ever invented.
For that occasional hanging idle, your mixture is still not correct. Use the dead cylinder method to adjust the mixture screws.
 
Mailman: WELL DONE ! its a gorgious bike !
take those towls out, and just re-torque the head..... every time you ridr it they will loosen a tiny amount..... keep them torqued to specks till the oil leak stops ! may take several rides but it "SHOULD"go away !!!! its worth a try rather than pulling the engine !
congrats !
Bob...........

Danielblack: good idea on the title ! I think i'll do that because it'a rats nest of paperwork here in California when a death of the previous owner is involved..... thats bound to save me allot of hair pulling !!!!
 
:agree: today I actally just backed off the left side head bolts cuz they were snugger. No torque wrench, just feel. And today my short test ride showed no leak on the frt right ! So Happy you are now at the "run test" stage ! FUN :bike:
 
Usually you have an insert bit in one of those kits that fits the main jets, go to the local lawn and garden they have jet screwdrivers for chainsaws and such that are a perfect fit. Often the ends are insert bits. epoxy a cabinet knob on the end of an insert bit. Or these.
 

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Usually you have an insert bit in one of those kits that fits the main jets, go to the local lawn and garden they have jet screwdrivers for chainsaws and such that are a perfect fit. Often the ends are insert bits. epoxy a cabinet knob on the end of an insert bit. Or these.

That's a good idea! Yeah that should've been so easy to do. As is the case most of the time, the right tool makes all the difference.
 
For my title and registration I used a title service a few blocks from home. An extra $25, but I was in and out in five minutes and I didn't have to wait for a number to be called.

You know , you got me thinking. I belong to AAA and they have a title , registration and licensing service for their members. And as luck would have it, there is one right next to where I work. I think my life just got a little easier.
Thanks for the idea!
 
Ha! I'm a AAA member, too. I really should check my member benefits more often.

Note: AAA Plus does not cover motorcycles. You must add motorcycle coverage on top. Yeah, learned that the other day.
 
No motorcycle work today, was way behind on my yard work. But I'm still thinking about it!
Several people have suggested re torquing the head and even though I did this early on, I'm thinking there might be some merit to doing it over, maybe even repeatedly. I still have the original rubber washers on my head, do you think there would be any value to replacing those with the brass washers? Also must re torquing be done with the engine cold? Or can it be done after a ride?

On another issue, my non functioning speedo. I've checked the connection on both ends of the cable. I disassembled the drive unit when I had the front wheel off and cleaned and greased it. I'm pretty sure my cable is intact, although I have not pulled it from the sheath to verify that. So what else should I be checking here?
 
Hi Mailman:

On the re-torquing - there will be a right way and a wrong way to do this in terms of hot/cold. My guess would be to do it cold when all of the parts are at their minimum size (speaking from the standpoint of thermal expansion) but the gurus will know for sure. If I'm right, then things will only get tighter as the engine heats up. Also - I don't think the rubber washers are a good idea. I'd suggest switching to copper.

On the matter of the speedo - you could try two simple tests:
  • Prop the front wheel up off the ground (and do NOT dump the bike over when you do this....:rolleyes:) and simply spin the front wheel while staring at the upper end of the disconnected speedo cable. If it is turning, then that whole speedo drive/cable assembly is likely good. This is the method I used to check on Lucille's speedo before I got her running. I didn't have to spin the wheel very fast, nor for very long to get a good indication on the instrument of both speedo and odometer function.
  • Now put a little piece of wire - like a suitably bent paper clip - into the chuck of your electric drill and stick it into the speedo instrument drive socket - and give it a rev to see if the needle indicates. If that works....well then the instrument is good.
If both of these tests are positive.....then....hmmmmmm. It must be haunted. :yikes:

Pete
 
Torque is done on a cold motor. Most recommend 28 - 30 ft. lbs. I have done 32 on one to stop a weep. IIRC Grizld1 does NOT recommend 32 iirc.
Brass or copper washers are favored over the rubber clad OEM.
With the cable off the meter hold the loose end in your fingers spin the front tire, what happens?
Paying attention to which way the cable turned attach at the meter and detach the drive. Chuck the end in your portable variable speed drill spin it in the correct direction at a lower rpm, what happens?
I have never needed to do either but. . . . I would in your situation just to see.
 
Torque is done on a cold motor. Most recommend 28 - 30 ft. lbs. I have done 32 on one to stop a weep. IIRC Grizld1 does NOT recommend 32 iirc.
Brass or copper washers are favored over the rubber clad OEM.
With the cable off the meter hold the loose end in your fingers spin the front tire, what happens?
Paying attention to which way the cable turned attach at the meter and detach the drive. Chuck the end in your portable variable speed drill spin it in the correct direction at a lower rpm, what happens?
I have never needed to do either but. . . . I would in your situation just to see.


Holy cow - great minds do think alike!!!!!
 
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