Making your own swing arm bushings ?

There are good threads on handling mods already on the board, but I'll give you my 2 cents. First off, you have to look at the frame and suspension as a system. Older sport standards had a wider steering head angle, narrower tires, and less rigid frames than the new stuff. Newer designs require a steeper steering head angle because fatter, stickier modern tires would otherwise slow down steering. Modern frames are made to take the stresses that result.

If your goal is quicker, more linear steering on your Special, mount a 2.15/18 rear rim with a 110/90 tire and lift the rear with the best shocks you can afford in 13.5" to 14" eye-to-eye length. Add a fork stabilizer; the T-Kat unit is a good one, Google it. The front forks are typical for the period--undersprung and overdamped. I've used Race Tech emulators with correctly rated straight rate springs for years. There are cheaper options out there (YSS for example), but if you get the emulators and springs from Traxxion Dynamics you'll also get the best customer service and tech support going: www.traxxion.com Finally, get rid of useless weight wherever you can.

The above is just one way to liven things up; gggGary has done some great work with a different approach, give his threads a read. Remember: when you tighten things up in one spot, you'll be adding new stresses in others.

Just (mostly) following your advice g bear!

lol ! thanks the two of you have told me vertually the same thing wider rims raise the back and stiffen the front ! and new tires.....
sounds like good advice to me ! THANKS !!!!
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Bob......

Gary favors wider rims front and rear; I use 2.15-18 rims at both ends with H-rated Bridgestone BT45's: 100/80-18 in front, 110/90-18 in back.

I could drop the clamps on the front fork tubes to lower the front more if needed... do you guys think that is nessarry ?
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Bob.............

Necessary? I wouldn't say that, depends on the result you want and the tuning and general health of the rest of the suspension. If springs are too light and allow too much sag, you can wind up with the forks bottoming, and if there are defects anywhere else in the suspension they'll be aggravated by faster steering response. That having been said and for what it's worth, clamps on my D-model are dropped 12 mm.

Drop the tubes down more than about 3/4"??? and the fender will bang into the lower triple.
A pair of BP7ES vrroom vrrroomm

Ohhh I don't want to bang my fender ! thanks guys !!! Much appreaciated !!!!
I'll probably run it like it is for a while and attack it this comming winter in the shop.... we had a sunny day here today and I'm getting the ride itch again!
LOL
Bob........