Could a washer destroy a bike?

I have just tried the following on a cheap soft and a high tensile Allen screw in the vice. Take a torx socket T35 and gently hammer it in. It will cut grooves in the hex corners and should allow you to extract the screw. Do not use a Torx socket with the hole drilled down the center because they snap easily on tight screws, must be a solid Torx socket. I recommend you have a couple of trial runs on Allen screws in a vice.

Perhaps someone else will also comment on the merits of this before you attack the bike???

Edit

Risks: If the screw is in very tight, possibly due to corrosion, then I would tend to favour drilling the head. The drill only needs to be as thick as the threaded shank. When the head comes off a section of the shank will be left sticking out as pointed out by TimeMachine. This can also be used to apply heat if necessary. To determine if the screw is too tight I would attempt to unscrew it using a torque wrench set in reverse at approximately 5ftlb. If the wrench clicks then stop and perhaps leave overnight with WD40 and then try again. Consider refitting all screws with an antiseize grease. I have read that Copper grease is not recommended on Aluminium alloy - but many say it is ok from their experience???
 
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Chances are if their allen headded bolts they will stick up far enough for you to get a grip on them with a good pare of vicegrips....
and then crack them loose make a few turns with the visegrips and then try the allen wrenches to get them all the way out..... alternately
a hack saw and cut slots in the top for a slot screw driver or if nothing else a sharp chissel and try to turn the bolt not cut it off....
an impact driver with a case hardened allen wrench and 3/8" socket will take them out if their not too bad as well....
I like using the vicegrips and brake them loose with the vicegrips..... but you have to put the vice grips on REAL TIGHT to keep them from slipping
have you tried to pull the tach drive again and see if the washer is on the bottom of the tack Drive ? or perhaps slip a flexable magnet down there and try to grab it ?
..... sounds like it is fighting you all the way ...try talking nice to her and she might respond better ! LOL
good luck
Bob.........
 
Ok gents, I played around with the bolt removals and used a few of what you guys said and some of my own. First off, i chiseled the bolt head I had access to, I still couldn't remove it. Next step was drilling out, that worked a treat, I think I used a 6mm. However, remember to loosen other allens as they are under pressure and snap off with that force, when you drill it. My next thought was using my drill to tighten, then loosen, then tighten etc, until it moves enough to undo. That worked so well!

Now case is open and I find that the shim is I place as it should be on the bottom of tach drive, so that can't be the issue with my first gear. What do you guys think it could be? FYI, all gears look perfect and the clutch plates don't all open when I use the clutch. Would that be the problem of the grinding? if it's the clutch tho, why does it only grind in First?

Side note, the kick starter came out a bit with the case so the gears aren't in groove. Any easy ways to put it back in?

Ps, engine open, you can really appreciate the beauty of this bike!
 
*when I say gears I don't mean engine gears, I mean cogs. I only have the RH case open in the frame. Pic to illustrate.
 

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AussiXS said:
It's a bit of an odd one. The cable looks fine but I did change the clutch lever which is too tight, so tight it won't allow the adjustment ball bearing thing on the left cover to even go in. The thing is, the rest of the gears are fine, I start it in neutral and ride off on gear 2.
Click to expand...

i would take another look at this. if you can't fit the ball bearing in with the new lever then i'm not sure that lever is gonna work. make sure your clutch is adjusted according to the manual. might be an easy fix.
 
Now that you have the cover off check the two springs found on the shift mechanism near the star shaped gear selector. One of those springs is known to break and will cause first to go in and out as you describe way back in your forst post. There are a few other items in that area to check when gear selection gets funky. This image from this thread shows the area and those springs. (MikesXS sells the springs)
shiftsprings-jpg.57145
 
PS if you had the clutch rod out while replacing the clutch cable the rod has to go in with the necked down end facing out. Also the ramp lever will install in 4 positions, only one will work. The return spring should be slightly loose if the arm is installed correctly.
 
AussiXS said:
, I made a few changes, removed tach drive, paint and little bits. 3 weeks after doing all this my bike lunges in first, it's like the gear selection forks aren't gripping then they do, ".
Click to expand...

what precisely do you mean by 'Lunging ' ? you need to be a lot more precise with your information for us to understand what you are referring to.

If you mean that when you select 1st gear then drop the clutch nothing happens immediately then the gears engage and the bike lunges forward then your issue is likely to be your clutch and not the gearbox.
Edit: As gggGary says check that you still have a ball bearing inside your worm drive and that you have the clutch push rod round the correct way with the slightly tapered end in the worm drive .
Another thing to check when you have the cover off is that the spring clip washer has not come off the gear change shaft .

To remove the screws you could try using a long handled flat blade screwdriver and filing it down until you can hammer it into the allen key slot so that it fits tightly. With a long handled screwdriver you should get the necessary leverage to shift the screws provided you put your shoulder into it as you turn .
Alternatively grind the end of a Impact Hammer bit to fit the allen key slot and try using an impact hammer to loosen the screws.

Oops !
Apologies ..I should have checked for a second page to the thread before answering :redface:
 
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gggGary said:
PS if you had the clutch rod out while replacing the clutch cable the rod has to go in with the necked down end facing out. Also the ramp lever will install in 4 positions, only one will work. The return spring should be slightly loose if the arm is installed correctly.
Click to expand...
Correct! in the other positions the spryl gear doesn't have enough travel to disenguage the clutch properly ! so when it's adjusted up it either is too tight (as you discribe) or too loose and won'd fully disenguage the clutch.... that arm that the clutch cable connects to should point down and to the left when holding it and looking at the spryl gear.
....
sounds like you should pull that cover off as well..... buy a impact driver so you can get those screws out easy.... you will use it allot on a motorcycle and their not that expensive any more.... it's well worth the money ....you need one !!!!
.....
Bob..........
 
I'm glad to read that the washer in question was where it was supposed to be..... that's a relief !
put the kick starter shaft back in it's hole and re asemble after checking the springs like gggGary said !
Don't try running it without all the screws in that sideplate as you'll just start a leak you can't stop and you'll have to pull the side plate again !
the side plates have to have all their screws ! ..... NO REALLY !!!!!
......
Gary is there a shim under the gear on the kick starter ? if so he might better check that it's in place and not moved....
.....
Bob.........
 
Ok back again!

So, I purchased a new OEM lever and nothing has changed. I feel like I have more problems than when I started.

Issues
*Clutch won't engage fully
*worm on pushrod wont screw in at all (bearings in and push rod correct position

Once I opened the case I pulled the lever and get very little movement of the clutch plates. I replaced the springs but that changed nothing.

I believe the clutch plates need replacing as they are quite thin but Would they causevthe first gear issue?

Worm gear doesn't screw in at all, if I take LH case screws out then screw in worm gear and put case back on, it works but it's very tight.

Thoughts?
 
well right away from your video I can see that your clutch basket doesn't appear to have been built correctly.

Either you have too many clutch plates or you have the wrong thickness of plates fitted .
Your clutch hub is projecting way out the front of your clutch basket and should be about flush at rest.
Check with you manual that you have the correct clutch plate set on the bike and use a vernier gauge to measure the thickness of all your clutch plates both friction and steel and compare to the manual.

you might find these videos helpful as a checklist
clutch pack.jpg
 
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Just took a still from your video and I count 7 friction plates. In 78 a believe they were fitted with 6 - Please recheck because sometimes clutch kits come with seven.
 
thats exactly my point Paul. There is something wrong with his clutch pack assembly .

My bike was manufactured in 78 and registered in 79 so it is right on the cusp when several changes were made .
We don't know exactly what clutch pack his bike is fitted with . It could be a replacement from another bike . It could be a 6 plate fitted with 7 plates . The plates could be the wrong thickness
 
Who ever did those videos is a legend! Thanks for sharing, that has brought to light something that could be causing my issues. There are no needle bearing races in my assembly at all, I have washers but that's it. As for plate numbers, I am not sure on what is right. It's a 78 but may be towards the tail end to be a 79 and being from Japan they did things a bit differently too.

Should i disassemble and see what it looks like with 6 plates?
 
Also, how are we feeling about the clutch plate thickeness? Should I order a new set while I am getting the bearing? I just don't want to if I don't need too
 
I based my plate count on the US 78 SE as shown on the parts catalogue at ShopYamaha, but AussiXS's is a Japanese model so may differ. If there are too many plates then this may show up as scrape marks on the inside of the right-hand casing due to contact with the clutch. Perhaps my memory is fading but I am sure that nightflyer12345 did a video about this on Youtube where does a repair only to find an extra plate. The symptoms were similar to what AussiXS reports. Bottom line, do as Peanut rightly suggests.
 
the vids are mine I confess. :rolleyes:

if you look on the head tube of your bike there should be the manufacturing year stamped into the frame .
If your year is 78 like mine and is a special ll like mine then it should have a 7x plate pack .
My bike is registered as a US 79 2F I have written the plate thicknesses on my diagram from the Yamaha manual so you can check yours against mine. All the washer dimensions are also noted

I don't recommend you order anything until we are sure which clutch pack you need .
It would be good to see your clutch dismantled so we can see what might be missing.

Looks like Paul is probably right . Your 78 should have had a 6x plate clutch pack fitted and not a 7x plate but we need to know exactly what you have in the clutch before we can be sure what is wrong
 
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