Ignition is shot. Upgrades?

TM, the outer brush is shorter because, in one revolution of the motor the outer brush is contacted by it's ring for a much longer distance. So, the inner brush gets less wear.

The outer brush always gets a bigger piece of the pi. :unsure:

Scott
 
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Alex f : how long have you had the bike ? was it sitting a long time before you got it ?
this is important to know..... because if it was sitting a long time and the gas turned into GOO in the carburator bowls that is more than likely your whole problem.... NOT the ignition or charging system....
if you have a TCI system that means it's a 1980 or newer bike..... same animal as Mine actually.... my bike sat for 15 years before I got it covered with a tarp that finally discentragated on it's own.... leaving it even more exposed....
the carbs on my bike were a MESS .... eventually i could get it to fire for a few seconds but it would die.... just like yours does....
after several attempts of cleaning the carbs myself I finally got mad at my self and tore them completelty apart and cleaned every part in them
after that it would run...but not right.... the choke didn't work at all.... so I tore them apart again ... and found one spot I missed then they worked just dandy ! like they should have.....
these carbs the BS34CV are a very picky carburator but they work extreamily well once cleaned up correctly... the floats must be set right on the money
and the idle/airscrew has to be changed from the factory settings....or it simply won't run right ! one cylinder will drop out at idle and pick it back up at mid range RPM.... strange but true ....
anyway.... tell us what you have and what it's doing and post a few pictures and we'll try to talk you through it !
Bob.........
 
mrtwowheel, true yes I understand the more expected wear of the outer brush. Just by more diameter and the distance travelled . Nobody has yet answered whether one short brush matters ? In other threads such as this I've read "check your brushes" well, I do not yet understand if brush length is important and can't see how it could be ? But I checked ! Thx, -RT
 
Shorter brushes mean longer, weaker spring force. Plus, there's the risk of them starting to angle/tilt from their protrusion from the brushblock...
 
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alex f said:
Idles for a little then dies. Let me also elaborate....I dont care much because i have a few grand laying around that i would like to throw into the bike. I dont find my attitude "typical". I want to have a well running xs. I dont care what i have to buy as long as i put it on and make it work myself. And if anyone needs stock parts to restore, like my charging / ignition system I wouldn't even make anyone pay. Put up the Shipping and its yours. All i want is some good oppinions. Thats thr beauty behind thesr old bikes. You dont have to use old parts.
Click to expand...

You sound like me , just want the bike to run when I want it to. don't want to mess with it once done. I am 62 and been working one bikes a long time. I like things simple now. The main problems you see on the forum are ignitions and carbs. I uses the following parts and never looked back. I can leave my bike sit for weeks, turn gas on and run. same way my race bikes were.To kill any BS for others saying I am trying to sell my parts. You can buy the ignition direct and there are other companies selling the carbs. I would not use them if they did not work. My prices are.
Powerdynamo igniton ($580.00)
34mm carbs kit. ($390.00)
 
Noted, thx , Brushes suspicious. And I sure haven't even tasted the "koolaid" Stock components are much worth diagnosing and replacing if possible .. It's a case by case situation. -RT
 
TimeMachine said:
Noted, thx , Brushes suspicious. And I sure haven't even tasted the "koolaid" Stock components are much worth diagnosing and replacing if possible .. It's a case by case situation. -RT
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TimeMachineSeventyEighte

A direct answer, as much as it hurts to do so, YES short brushes matter, the marked wear limit line is IMHO too close to the end, replace any brush that is anywhere's NEAR that line. Some aftermarket don't have hte line IIRC the limit is 3/8 but use a grain of salt,
Also there is an old thread on rotor run out, rotors, specially some aftermarket can be serious wobblers, prolly tossing the brush in the air each time around. Usually some file work in the keyway and thinner, scrubbing the taper will get them to reasonably true.
 
Great ! Realize in this case the rotor has never been off and appears to be great in color. I did clean & test it on bike 2 yrs ago and at that time I "diamond filed" the brush faces just thinking it was a good idea. I could have done more bad than good. Any way, Saturday pouring rain will delay another running test today.. I will be tech thread reading now & soon of course ! Thanks -RT
 
Several years ago I pulled the side cover and alternator housing on the stocker, and 600 grit sanded the rotor while the engine was idling. Just cleaning it up. Had no discernable runout during this, never considered that this would occur and/or be an issue.
Just attempted first quote post. Thats my kind of fun too ! -RT
 
TwoManyXS1Bs said:
there's the risk of them starting to angle/tilt from their protrusion from the brushblock...
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My limited experience this is a worse problem than spring tension, very visible if you ride at night. Much like the response of the headlight idling vs revving when sitting, only in reverse dimming on acceleration and brightening off throttle.
 
+1 on the stock tci working a treat, and is fired by the crank. I will more than likely my next xs will be 80 or above for that reason..and in my mostly stock bike the bs34s are fine as well with a little adjustment
..I want to get like an 83 with the choke cable repaint it and keep it stock looking then play with my 80 lower it maybee mono shock...
I totally get it though if you have $ budgeted for the bike and want it a certain way. Just my point is the tci is not bad.
Hooser, that looks like a really solid system that power dynamo, Just to be sure, it can be used with the standard 12v battery, electric starter and lighting correct? Also can you post a link to the carb system you put together? Curious to what carbs you use for it.
 
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So would my bike be able to use this as far as the ignition replacement? If so how easy is it to install?
 

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Get the PAMCO with electronic advance. Not the mechancal advance. Any coil but stock.
 
azman857 said:
Get the PAMCO with electronic advance. Not the mechancal advance. Any coil but stock.
Click to expand...
Im looking on mikes but i dont see a kit with the electronic advance. Could someone find an example of everything i need kit wise? Money is not an issue so whatever kind of kit it is no matter the cost, post it!
 
alex f said:
Im looking on mikes but i dont see a kit with the electronic advance. Could someone find an example of everything i need kit wise? Money is not an issue so whatever kind of kit it is no matter the cost, post it!
Click to expand...
Sent you a PM...
 
Yes e-advance ESPECIALLY on a TCI bike!
Some of mikes coils, are a POS. terminals have fallen off in the shipping box.
If money is no object why not Gary Hoos system?
 

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