Coil replacement

The battery will be wired the same way a cap will, just use the diagram and imagine a battery instead.
 
thanks figure8. i figured as much but wasn't entirely sure given the solenoid and button - not much of an electrical genius, clearly

i just ordered the ultimate high output coil 17-6903, the 5mm wires and iridium plugs which i'll open the gap on... so we'll see
after the rewiring, i'm hoping it fires up like it did before (or better)
 
Mickey....,
My standard recommendation is to use a separate stand alone battery when first firing up the engine after an ignition system installation. PMA's can be weird in how the voltage regulator works or doesn't work, including producing a very high voltage (>20V) or they can actually cause the battery voltage to drop due a malfunction that essentially pulls the +12 to ground. So, get the engine running first with the PAMCO and a separate battery before you troubleshoot what happened to the battery you have, or remove that battery and charge it overnight then use it to power the ignition only. Disconnect the PMA and regulator for the initial start. This advice is good for other ignition systems as well. It's not just the PAMCO, although I have had my share of accusations, including one person who claimed that his brakes did not work properly after installing the PAMCO. :wtf: I told him that real men don't need brakes, and I never heard from him again! :D (Fortunately for me...real men DO need ignition systems...:smoke: )
 
Last edited:
Mickey....,
My standard recommendation is to use a separate stand alone battery when first firing up the engine after an ignition system installation. PMA's can be weird in how the voltage regulator works or doesn't work, including producing a very high voltage (>20V) or they can actually cause the battery voltage to drop due a malfunction that essentially pulls the +12 to ground. So, get the engine running first with the PAMCO and a separate battery before you troubleshoot what happened to the battery you have, or remove that battery and charge it overnight then use it to power the ignition only. Disconnect the PMA and regulator for the initial start. This advice is good for other ignition systems as well. It's not just the PAMCO, although I have had my share of accusations, including one person who claimed that his brakes did not work properly after installing the PAMCO. :wtf: I told him that real men don't need brakes, and I never heard from him again! :D (Fortunately for me...real men DO need ignition systems...:smoke: )

Funny thing is i never saw a surge when i was testing, so I thought I was safe.
Only thing that caught my attention after the swaps was the the idle speed ran up really high after the oil temp reached 200+
That's when i started to suspect plug gaps, etc... but before i could really try adjustments the battery went, ignition went and now I'm starting over (feels that way anyway)

But i hear you Pete -- your integrity (and humor) stands
 
I think we may have another case of the first sip of the PMA Kool-Aid tasting really good, after that not so much, lol.
 
I think we may have another case of the first sip of the PMA Kool-Aid tasting really good, after that not so much, lol.

Feeling that wider stride of self-satisfaction this evening, 5twins?
Go ahead and throw your shade, brother -- the suns coming out here in Brooklyn, and I'll be back on my ride soon enough.
 
But I bet your wallet will be quite a bit lighter. These "best 650 charging system" PMAs have a nasty habit of crapping out shortly after install and in many cases, adding insult to injury, they take your electronic ignition with them. Like I said, bad Kool-Aid once you get near the bottom of the jug. But you go ahead and keep drinking it. You really have no other choice, you're all in already. If components like the regulator or rectifier on my stock system crap out, I can replace them with good stuff for like $10 to $30. You will need to spend $100+ for a good PMA reg/rec. And well, we all know what a Pamco costs. Pete's pretty good with his warranty coverage but I'll bet he's getting tired of replacing units that shit PMAs have fried. That type of failure is not his fault nor is it the ignition unit's fault. It wasn't faulty, your choice of a charging system caused it.
 
Mickey....,
My standard recommendation is to use a separate stand alone battery when first firing up the engine after an ignition system installation. PMA's can be weird in how the voltage regulator works or doesn't work, including producing a very high voltage (>20V) or they can actually cause the battery voltage to drop due a malfunction that essentially pulls the +12 to ground. So, get the engine running first with the PAMCO and a separate battery before you troubleshoot what happened to the battery you have, or remove that battery and charge it overnight then use it to power the ignition only. Disconnect the PMA and regulator for the initial start. This advice is good for other ignition systems as well. It's not just the PAMCO, although I have had my share of accusations, including one person who claimed that his brakes did not work properly after installing the PAMCO. :wtf: I told him that real men don't need brakes, and I never heard from him again! :D (Fortunately for me...real men DO need ignition systems...:smoke: )

Pete - can you suggest the best coil for use with your standard ignition + advance rod with hughs PMA system? Is it 17-6903 only, or will 17-68.. work also for the "high output"?
And please include your recommended spark plug gap size for use with 17-68..
(I know you stated earlier that for 17-69.. to go with a wider .035-.040, so I got that one)
PLEASE and THANK YOU
.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top