Yes Bob and it was you who coined the description of the XS650 electric starter that it sounds like "a spoon tossed down a garburator".

An amazingly apt description - but I've been pleased that Lucille starts so quickly these days that you can hardly hear her crank. For a 41 year old motorcycle that not been rebuilt and is still running the original points and coils and whose carbs have not yet even been synchronized - that ain't bad.
 
Anyone that finds the starting system to be noisy, should really ask themself, "maybe my engine is really slow to start".
Think about things like..................weak battery, weak spark, choke not giving rich enough mixture, etc.
These engine start very quickly, so starter motor is not running very long.
 
True RG - but during the resurrection process one often needs the crank the engine a bit while sorting things out.
 
Ya, Agree. Having recently "faulting" my previous 78e starter and thinking it needed the common spring clip fix. I resorted to kicking it only. However, After tuning the engine to a very good state, Amazingly the starter worked immediately for the short time required to start a healthy engine. No throttle, just a push on the button. I think that starter was working well enough after all. -RT
 
I wonder if your starter safety relay is dirty. That is an easy fix and a key symptom is erratic starter button function.
 
Steering head bearing replacement Part 1
The dis assembly.
" A heartwarming story of a boy and his beer"

I did mucho research prior to tackling this particular project. I would like to give a shout out to some of our more prolific advisors, who have laid the groundwork for poor slobs like me. gggGary, you may not even realize how many posts you have written on this subject, but I sure read a bunch of them, and 5Twins as always you have made many helpful suggestions and your photos are priceless, and also I dug into the old 650Rider.com archives and came up with a real gem from forum member Pumps who wrote a terrific piece called my 77 teardown. Here is a link

http://650rider.com/index.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=8413&highlight=Steering+head+bearings

For all you veterans this will be old hat to you, but for my fellow first timers I am going to try and document this with a lot of photos.

First off I got my bike up on my bike jack and thoroughly secured with four tie down straps.
No more accidents for this old boy.
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Before I jacked it up I loosened most all of the larger bolts so I wouldn't have to crank on it while it was up in the air. Then off came the front wheel, brake caliper ( still connected to all the hoses and M/C, I never broke any connections) and the front fender. The brake caliper, master cylinder, and connecting hoses were just pulled back and hung on the side of the bike with wire.
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At first I had planned to leave as much attached to the handlebars as possible and just lay them back, but I found that to be very unwieldy. So I popped the clutch cable off of the clutch lever.
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For the throttle and right hand switch gear, loosen the two Phillips screws on the underside and everything just slides right off the end of The handlebars. Remember my headlight bucket was already off and all my wires were already hanging loose.
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Now unbolt my handlebars and pull them off.
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Now it's time to pull the forks, first I loosened the pinch bolts on the triple tree and then slid the forks down and out.
Now onto the steering head. Pull the bolt and washer from the top of the stem and now the top triple tree can come off, then remove the two notched jam nuts from the top of the stem using my el cheapo spanners that I got from EBay ( thanks for pointing me to these 5Twins)
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After removing the jam nuts you can pull the dust cap and you will see the top race of the upper bearing. After removing them I see the ball bearings which don't look all that bad.
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With those removed, the stem and lower triple tree can now be removed. Following 5Twins advice I made careful notes on how the headlight ears go together.
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Now I can see the lower bearings still sitting in the race , held there by some rather gummy grease.
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Now it's time to drive the upper and lower races from the steering head. For that job I put an 11/16 socket on a long extension and simply tap tap tapped back and forth from side to side until it popped out, not hard at all. Did top and bottom that way.
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Now you have to get the lower race off of the bottom of the steering stem. I simply clamped it in my vise and used a chisel, working it back and forth, just lightly tapping it and it popped right off in no time.
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Save the seal and reuse it.
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Here I tried to show what the lower race looked like. You can see indentations from the ball bearings. This should make a huge improvement in its handling manners.
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All in, being very meticulous, this only took a couple of hours. But remember I had the advantage of having my headlight already off and all my wiring loose.
Tomorrow I'll hopefully get it back together enough to be able to roll around at least.
Until then,
Cheers! Bob
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Atta boy Bob - nicely done!

BTW - that marking on the race (the little dents) is often called "brinnelling". It is caused by the balls denting, as you say, the race and if you do the math - all ball bearings will eventually do that.
 
Atta boy Bob - nicely done!

BTW - that marking on the race (the little dents) is often called "brinnelling". It is caused by the balls denting, as you say, the race and if you do the math - all ball bearings will eventually do that.

It's so funny Pete after I pulled the forks off, I actually made a little video of me moving the triple tree, and when I would get it close to center I could let it go and it would literally snap into place, but I wasn't happy with the video quality. My bike was handling so squirrelly , I really hope this helps.
 
I probably mentioned all this before but I'll run through it again so you don't forget anything. Install your neck grease fitting next before putting any of the new races in. If your new bearings came with grease seals, use the bottom one along with the factory Yamaha one. The top seal is up to you. I don't think it does much. Do install a "grease saver" on the neck. You can measure the tube diameter to be sure but I think it's just 1" plastic/vinyl tubing that's required. It's a snug fit but warming it a bit with a hair dryer or heat gun allows it to tap on pretty easily. They sell it by the foot at the hardware store and that will do 2 necks. Once it's tapped down in place, you can cut a hole in the side for the steering lock.



And don't forget the cork in the bottom of the neck to hold the grease in.
 
You will be very pleased with the results. A much improved steering and handleing. I did it last year. I now wonder why I waited so long to do it. I did it to the KZ project too.
 
Will you be notching the neck tube in case you have to remove the bottom race in the sometime future?
Are you freezing the bottom race for several days to ease installation?
 
WER - can you describe what you mean by notching?

I'm not familiar with that step in the process.
 
It's so funny Pete after I pulled the forks off, I actually made a little video of me moving the triple tree, and when I would get it close to center I could let it go and it would literally snap into place, but I wasn't happy with the video quality. My bike was handling so squirrelly , I really hope this helps.

Yup - look up Hertzian Stresses and you'll find out why all ball bearings will eventually go like that. I think you will find a major improvement in handling once you get the tapered rollers in there.

Pete
 
"Slip slidin' away
Slip slidin' away
You know the nearer your destination
The more you're slip slidin' away "

Ugh! I've been chasing my tail this morning running all over trying to find zerk fittings and a tap and the right size drill bit for the tap. I've been to three different places this morning trying to find everything in one place and I couldn't make that happen. Everywhere I went has one component or another.

So I'm back home and I've decided to slow my roll and do the kind of work I wanted to do in the first place. I was feeling rushed to get this back together. I want to clean and paint everything , wait until I can get the right size tap and drill bit for the zerk fitting.

Btw, do you think this grease is good for the bearings? It says on the tube it's for wheel bearings and chassis lube.
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I've got my bearing races in the freezer, waiting.
I do not plan to notch the steering head. I really think they will outlive me. However, should I ever want to remove them I would probably use gggGary's technique of drilling a couple small holes right here. That would allow you to put a small punch right on the race and drive it out.
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I also picked up my "grease saver" hose this morning and I think I might be able to find a wine cork laying around here somewhere! Haha!
So back to the salt mines for me. I'm burning daylight!
Bob
 
I use M6 grease fittings mostly because that's the size already on the bike in certain spots (swingarm, rear brake pivot). HF sells a metric assortment kit that includes them.

https://www.harborfreight.com/32-piece-metric-grease-fittings-67569.html

Then all you need is a regular M6 tap which many of us have already.

I originally used moly grease but am switching over to the Sta-lube premium red because it's thicker. The moly stuff was constantly oozing out of the bottom race and making a mess. But, I don't have that additional grease seal down there. My MikesXS bearings didn't include seals. Maybe you won't have the "leak" problem I do.
 
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