New Cylinder base gasket already leaking...

Dudes, this is now my thread. Did the same...running great. Very perky. Leaks.
I think I'm going to un torque, retorque and let the gaskets set between the old case and the new jugs.
Chime in anyone
Do I do this cold or after a warming run or hot?
Thanks.
...btw, it's running great!
 
Dudes, this is now my thread. Did the same...running great. Very perky. Leaks.
I think I'm going to un torque, retorque and let the gaskets set between the old case and the new jugs.
Chime in anyone
Do I do this cold or after a warming run or hot?
Thanks.
...btw, it's running great!
Where exactly are the leaks and are they compressive gas or oil leaks ?
did you apply Threebond /Hondabond to all gasket surfaces prior to fitting ? if you didn't apply any at least around the camchain tunnel and head stud shafts you're likely to have compression leaks into the crankcase lots of blue smoke from exhaust and oil squirted out the crakcase breather
 
I think they are coming from around the base gasket. I did use permatex on top. I did oil the top and bottom surfaces of the base gasket because there was no call for bonding agent upon reassembly in the Clymer. It's just a little weeping and today I will find the source. I think I am going to lose the head bolts...all of them and then retorque to 26 ft lbs and the proper amount for the other bolts. We will see what happens.
I think there is hope. If I have to take it apart and re gasket the base, so be it, but we are going to put some miles on it first.
 
Mostly you want the base gasket as clean and dry as can be. The mating surfaces as well. An oily gasket will leak. I use Gasgacinch to not block the oil passages.
 
When I opened the wet side of the case last year to replace some springs, delete starter, check the clutch plates, etc. I had the same kind of gasket which I oiled and it has remained dry. Granted it is not bearing a lot of compression, but not nothing is going on in there. We will see.
 
Clymer is a good manual... one of the best but it should be borne in mind that it was written and published 45 years ago in the 1970s when these bikes were still relatively new. They were advising on rebuilding new bikes

The way I viewed this when I rebuilt my 79 engine was this .
The engine is nearly 40 years old ......
I have no idea of its history for the past 40 years.
It could have been raced, seized, abused, over torqued, not maintained properly, distorted due to excessive heat etc etc

We have a choice . To get an engineering shop to resurface the cylinder , barrels, head, crankcase etc so that all mating surfaces are true and correctly aligned.(expensive)

Or apply some liquid gasket to both mating surfaces in addition to the gasket. (very cheap )
The way I see it liquid gasket cannot cause any sealing problems but it well prevent them and it is a belt-and-braces approach to achieving a 100% seal wheras using a modern, often poor quality gasket on its own with mating surfaces that have not been skimmed and aligned..... well its asking for problems in my opinion.

If leaks occur .............then the engine gets torqued and retorqued to within an inch of its life at higher and higher torque in an attempt to stop the leak resulting distorted bolts and crankcase thread damage.
 
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I agree. But I am not going for the over torque. That damage may be catastrophic. I'm going to un torque and then retorque at a lower 26 lb and see. If it is worse, then I'll just have to pull the head and do it again...some day when it's crappy outside and I have a whole day to blow on an oil leak.
Peace Dudes. Ride safely this weekend and every weekend.
 
I definitely agree with your approach its what I'd do too. I think some folk are too keen to rip the engine apart before testing thoroughly and exploring all possibilities
let us know how you get on and anyway whats a little trail of oil down the road when you're having so much fun :bike:lol
 
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