Loose Chain?

Did you do anything with the throttle plates, like take the small screws out?
Another thought is the nut that holds the throttle actuating arm on the left carb. If you had that off and then tightened her down too much when you reassembled.
The only things I touched when I had the carbs apart were the gaskets and floats. Didn't mess around with the throttle plates.
 
Best I can remember, the arm is only free to go inward so far no matter how much you tighten the nut.
Yeah, I just revisited some carbs and you're correct.

Chris, have you bench synched those carbs? The last video didn't give a good shot of both of the throttle plates to be able to see if they were off any.
 
I suspect a problem with the throttle shafts ...Dirt in the bearing surface or something making them very tight... they should move very easily all the way open and closed....
its Possible that the spring that closes the throttle , under the lever where the throttle cable attaches to is not on the upper side of the
protrusion of the carb.... there is a certain amount of Pre-tension that needs to be on that spring to get it to actuate properly.
....
throttle shafts are often overlooked in carb work but shouldn't be. their seals are important and must seal well... if you can move the throttle shaft up and down or forward and back they need to be looked into !
.....it looks to me as if the throttle plates are not positioned correctly , loosening the screws and snapping the throttle shut and then re tightening them should cure that. but only loosen the screws a small amount enough so the plate moves when it's snapped closed.
this SHOULD cure any binding you have when the throttles are almost closed if there is still drag after that then it has to be in the bearing surface of the throttle shafts..... that is where I'ed Look for a fix.... good luck ! understand how it actuates and what the parts do and reason it out.... you can do it !
......
Bob.........
 
Did you dip clean the carbs? try a little light oil inside and out on the shafts. Are both butterflies centered throughout the throttle travel, gaps the same on both sides of each butterfly? How many miles on the carbs, bike operated in a dirty or dusty area?
 
Thanks for all the help so far guys. The throttle plates are finally closing completely. I ended up soaking the springs in brake parts cleaner and it removed all the dirt and oil off of them. Now just to throw them back on the bike.
 
Right at 30 seconds per Fred's request. That's a fast idle, will it slow down when you rev it? spray carb cleaner around hte throttle shafts see what happens.
 
It's alive!
What's next, cam chain tension and valve adjustment?
Well I took her out for a ride this afternoon. Hard work payed off, but obviously not done yet. Right now I'm trying to figure out what the first step is to removing the front wheel. I have the bike jacked up and plan on cleaning up the wheels this weekend (maybe even have them shine again). Anyone have tips on how to remove it? I looked at the knucklebuster online shop manual, but it doesn't give a series of steps.
 
^It's all covered in one of the manuals linked to from here. When you put it back on, tighten the cap on the left side first. Tighten the nut in front all the way down with the one in back loose, then tighten the one in back -- there'll be a gap there. Use a small torque wrench if possible. Then tighten the axle nut. A little flange on the left shock needs to sit in the flange on the speedometer gears thing. If you forget that, woe be to your riding pleasure.
 
^Arrr, forgot that since you don't see it every day from the outside.
Final step, in the nut put in the biggest cotter pin that will fit in the hole in the axle and bend the ends back in opposite directions. If it's not lined up, tighten it a little more, not loosen, to line it up.
One time I got a handful of those big cotter pins at the hardware store and when I got home, some of them felt funny. Turned out some of them were aluminum instead of steel! Must have been fake cotter pins.
 
Chris :
Have you done a dead cylinder test and carb sync yet ? in the first video it sounded a bit rough and I'm thinking carb sync...
it's harder to tell when it idles slower...
that carb sync tool that 2M came up with really is a sensitive thing , I made one and it works really great !
my bike was Sync-ed using a Unisyn carb sincronizer before that and it was spot on to it... but the home made carb syncer brought it in even better..... here's a link if ya want to make one !
http://www.xs650.com/threads/carb-sync.48939/
....
later !
Bob.........
 
^Arrr, forgot that since you don't see it every day from the outside.
Final step, in the nut put in the biggest cotter pin that will fit in the hole in the axle and bend the ends back in opposite directions. If it's not lined up, tighten it a little more, not loosen, to line it up.
One time I got a handful of those big cotter pins at the hardware store and when I got home, some of them felt funny. Turned out some of them were aluminum instead of steel! Must have been fake cotter pins.

Ahrrrr matey, be it talk like a pirate day again?
And you'm advising the cabin boy to be putting those cotter pins in all wrong.
Shove the pin in so that one leg faces out and t'other faces in.
Bend the outboard leg out to lay along the bolt tail's thread, tap it sharp across the bolt's tail and clip it off short about half way across the bolt tail.
Bend the inner leg down to lay across the axle nut's face, clip it off short to fit across the axle nut's edge and bend it hard down.
That's what they taught me as an aircraft apprentice.
 
When tightening the front wheel up, tighten the axle nut first, this ensures everything is pulled to the nut side as it should be, then tighten the cap on the other side. If you tighten the cap first you then pull that fork leg over, possibly too much, might even bind that fork.
Leo
 
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