Expanded charging system guide (In progress)

Gotcha. Btw...I just did the gggGary 5mm Allen Wrench Rotor Pickup Magnet Test® and the magnet seems pretty strong. ;)
Before I go any further gonna check the cam chain and valve lash while the battery is topping off.
 
Cam chain and valves were fine. Unplugged the green wire and went for a short ride and the bike seemed fine. Plugged the green wire back in and rode for another 10 miles and came home. Battery was at 12.56 volts.
 
Hi Guys,
I'm having trouble with my charging system. I was only getting less than 12 volts across the battery when the motor was reved to 3000rpm, only going for short rides flattened the batery. Removed the rotor to find that the ohm measurement between the two slip rings ia 1 ohm. i did have another spare rotor which looks new however found this to have a measurement of over 60 ohms. Has anyone heard of the that before?

I'm now looking for a new rotor!!!
Please see the photos i took.
Regards
Crackers
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upload_2018-3-3_21-9-32.jpeg
 

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gggGary said:
6twins recently noted he got 16 ohms, cleaned the rings then had 5.6 ohms
Click to expand...

:) spot on Gary ....
I was just going to suggest cleaning the rings before taking measurements as those rings are filthy and will cause false readings due to increased resistance. We are only talking about 5 ohms or less
Crackers. give those rotor rings a good clean with fine wet n dry followed by alcohol or parraffin and use the points of the probes to get a perfect connection and try again.;)
 
I use chrome polish to clean my slip rings. Seems to work well and is very easy to do. This last pair I just did were very dirty and it seemed to be more than just tarnish. It was like a black paste film. This bike may have a small crank seal leak on this side. The engine case all around the rotor and alternator was also covered with this brush dust/oil mix. Of course, this may just be the normal accumulation from the past 35 years. Chances are it has never been cleaned. It looked clean because this is the black case model. Taking a rag to it proved otherwise.
 
Hi Guys,
Thanks for the input and advise, i'll try cleaning the slips and remeasure. I don't have a milli henry inductance meter to test the coils.
Anyhow what ever the outcome is i'll report back.
Thanks all its great to know there is a wealth of knowledge out there.
 
Hi Guys,
Firstly thanks for all the responses. I cleaned the slip rings as suggested to no avail, i'm pretty sure both units are gone. Cleaning the slip rings didn't change the ohm readings.
I'm now thinking of going with the permanent magnet charging system. The bad thing about that is the cost, the aussie dollar is a little bit down against the US dollar plus the postage is exspensive to. I'll check out Mikes XS.

Thanks again guys.
Crackers
 
Hi Guys,
Quick update. Managed to buy a new rotor from the US, also the postage wasn't so bad. The aussie dollar is still pretty weak against the US dollar but managed to get the rotor at a reasonable price.
I'll advise once the bike is back together again.
Once again thanks to all.
Crarckers
 
Just a heads up; a bit of finagling, clean up up of the taper and keyway on some of the new rotors that are sourced from China is often needed.
 
After following gggGary's advice in #414 and installing your new rotor, use the piston stop - degree wheel method to find true TDC and see if the witness mark on your new rotor (assuming that it has one) and the TDC mark on the timing tab are still aligned properly. This is important to know with total confidence that your advance timing is within spec, particularly that it does not exceed 40 degrees BTDC at full advance. I probably wouldn't bother if installing a re-wound OEM rotor - I'd trust Yamaha's quality control; but with a new one of unknown origin and quality control, I think it's worth the effort.
 
Hi Guys,
I got the new rotor post hast from your part of the pond the US. Measured the slips and found it to be 5.5 ohms all good. The rotor is not new looks as though it has been re-wound, and looks to be in very good condition. Anyhow after installing it and installing a spare stator, installing new carbon bushes, and then running the engine 14.4 volts at the battery @ 2500RPM, all good.
In summary i had a few issues, bad rotor as per my earlier photos, a couple of the original stator wires had been almost chewed thru, very bad connections from the battery to the starter relay and finally very short carbon bushes. All this adds up to no charging system, simply running the bike from the battery. I guess its my fault, should of checked all this years ago...
Again thanks to all that commented and forwarded suggestions.

Regards
Crackers
 
808BB7DB-1B90-4D93-B0E2-554DC62A0798.jpeg


http://www.xs650.com/threads/frozen-17mm-rotor-nut-removal.53676/page-3#post-576194

I’m moving my thread over to the Tech section - note: heed Gggary’s advice and check all components. My rotor was shot so I ordered an new one. I didn’t check my reg/rec because I replaced that a few years ago (at the time my rotor was registering 5.0 ohms). I should have. I may have gone PMA if I found what I did today earlier.

Question: can I test to see if my reg/reg is shot when it is disconnected? Or maybe I should fix the TC Bros connector and then redo Step #3?

What would you do?


Current situation is new rotor in, tested green wire to ground and the volts did not jump. BUT when I opened my e-box I found a few fried wires Where the stator connects to the REG/REC. The melted/loose wires are on the TC Bros. Connector that I used to bridge between the stator connector and REG/REC connector.

I’m guessing that this wire shorted out, and then my rotor overheated this Summer/Fall and then failed.
 
JayR said:
View attachment 132419

http://www.xs650.com/threads/frozen-17mm-rotor-nut-removal.53676/page-3#post-576194

I’m moving my thread over to the Tech section - note: heed Gggary’s advice and check all components. My rotor was shot so I ordered an new one. I didn’t check my reg/rec because I replaced that a few years ago (at the time my rotor was registering 5.0 ohms). I should have. I may have gone PMA if I found what I did today earlier.

Question: can I test to see if my reg/reg is shot when it is disconnected? Or maybe I should fix the TC Bros connector and then redo Step #3?

What would you do?


Current situation is new rotor in, tested green wire to ground and the volts did not jump. BUT when I opened my e-box I found a few fried wires Where the stator connects to the REG/REC. The melted/loose wires are on the TC Bros. Connector that I used to bridge between the stator connector and REG/REC connector.

I’m guessing that this wire shorted out, and then my rotor overheated this Summer/Fall and then failed.
Click to expand...

Hi J , You can test the rectifier side if you're talking about a solid state device (or an original part for that matter). For the regulator to be tested it would need to be connected. RM Stator has a good diagnostic section on their website.
Dave
 
Call me Sparky! Well I have my Winter project like it or not. My wire routing may have been the culprit - that TC Bros connector may have been placed a bit too snugly under the seat. And after 2 years of my fat arse riding on top it may have failed. I’ll resolder the connections and start from there. Thanks Wildav - I’ll work my way to the stator too. Ugh.
 

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