delete this

one of you at some point posted about disconnecting the red white wire that goes to the coils, hook a red wire(really doesnt matter what color it is) from the positive side of the battery straight to the coils.kick and hope, see if it runs,at least pops.This would eliminate the starter,ignition switch,solenoid, and battery correct? That might be a way to go permanently.
 
ron bayless said:
one of you at some point posted about disconnecting the red white wire that goes to the coils, hook a red wire(really doesnt matter what color it is) from the positive side of the battery straight to the coils.kick and hope, see if it runs,at least pops.This would eliminate the starter,ignition switch,solenoid, and battery correct? That might be a way to go permanently.
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Well only if having working lights, horn and charging system is not on your wish list.

Also you should have seen the suggestion of installing a switch of some kind to be able to shut it off if it were to start and make some not nice sounds!
 
J.I.S. screwdrivers are good, and I give you credit for getting them, but they're for the Phillips screws, they'll be no help for jet removal/install. The jets take a straight blade, and a metric one, that's the problem. Your hardware store-Home Depot-Lowes screwdrivers aren't going to fit (properly).

You can wire the coils up directly but you MUST HAVE an on-off switch in the line. Leave them powered up for more than maybe 10 or 15 minutes without the engine running and you'll fry them.
 
kshansen said:
Well only if having working lights, horn and charging system is not on your wish list.

Also you should have seen the suggestion of installing a switch of some kind to be able to shut it off if it were to start and make some not nice sounds!
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I did.I was going to put a toggle between the battery and the coils.
 
5twins said:
J.I.S. screwdrivers are good, and I give you credit for getting them, but they're for the Phillips screws, they'll be no help for jet removal/install. The jets take a straight blade, and a metric one, that's the problem. Your hardware store-Home Depot-Lowes screwdrivers aren't going to fit (properly).

You can wire the coils up directly but you MUST HAVE an on-off switch in the line. Leave them powered up for more than maybe 10 or 15 minutes without the engine running and you'll fry them.
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did not know that.Maybe I should try to get the right stuff hooked up.Like the new battery,battery cables,igniton switch and solenoid.plus new right handlebar controls with a functioning kill switch.That would be best.I do need functional carbs,that seems impossible right now.
 
I see basically where all the jets are and all the holes in them plus even some holes in the carb bodies to clean out.Lots of cleaning and looking for daylight through the holes.I still have not figured out how to get the linkage and butterflies moving.Soakin in dawm got them cleaner.soaking all the butterflies and linkage with penetrant has not worked.
 
ron bayless said:
I wisely bought a set of jis screwdrivers.Has saved me from ruining a bunch of screws.
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EXCELLENT Ron!! That purchase has saved you from the Mk-V ear-bashing that most people get about not using Phillips drivers on JIS screws.

Keep at Bud - you WILL win over the evil Mikuni Gods - just go slowly and persevere.

Pete
 
I can see it maybe helping a little, but those aren't the carbs you have. Those are the later BS34s that didn't come along until 1980. The jet types and locations are pretty much all different. Those carbs are the more normal type where the jets install into the bottom of the main carb body. The float hinge pin on those is like a nail, it has a head on one end. That means it will only come out one way. Your float hinge pin is just a plain rod, no head on either end, so it will tap in and out from either end.
 
5twins said:
I can see it maybe helping a little, but those aren't the carbs you have. Those are the later BS34s that didn't come along until 1980. The jet types and locations are pretty much all different. Those carbs are the more normal type where the jets install into the bottom of the main carb body. The float hinge pin on those is like a nail, it has a head on one end. That means it will only come out one way. Your float hinge pin is just a plain rod, no head on either end, so it will tap in and out from either end.
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i know there are differences, but his progression of disassembly and cleaning jets are good for me to know.
 
I let my carbs soak in evaporust for 4 hours.just took them out.The linkage and butterflies still wont move.Now I do not know what to do.My carbs are very clean looking now.
 
I am next going to try MEK. One guy boiled his in lemon juice.It doesnt work as I found out in another video_One guy used pine sol.It works for dirt but not really varnish.I had a toughh time getting the slides out.they were varnished. dawn liquid soak and a hairdryer got them out.That is what is making me think boiling mike work.I wont use apple cider vinegar. good for rust but leave it in too long and it will destroy metal. I also have muriatic acid, but thats really reserved for rust not varnish. mek is cheap. Then I will try boiling.
 
I think I'd keep at it with penetrating oil and mild heat. I think I'd split the carb "bank" apart into individual carbs too. That linkage between the carbs needs a good cleaning as do the chokes. You can remove all the linkage stuff from the outer side of the left carb and the snap ring and washer from the outer side of the right carb. That will expose the butterfly shaft seals on those ends (if there's anything left of them) and you can pop them out. Then you'll be able to soak those shaft ends good.

I wouldn't remove the choke housings from the carb bodies, just pull the plungers out from the top. They are held in by a threaded fitting.
 
5twins said:
I think I'd keep at it with penetrating oil and mild heat. I think I'd split the carb "bank" apart into individual carbs too. That linkage between the carbs needs a good cleaning as do the chokes. You can remove all the linkage stuff from the outer side of the left carb and the snap ring and washer from the outer side of the right carb. That will expose the butterfly shaft seals on those ends (if there's anything left of them) and you can pop them out. Then you'll be able to soak those shaft ends good.

I wouldn't remove the choke housings from the carb bodies, just pull the plungers out from the top. They are held in by a threaded fitting.
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I will have to reread this several times.It sounds like I could easily screw it up.I never have any confidence in splitting carbs and ever getting them back together right.I will reread this, look for the parts you described, see if I can do it. MEK is supposed to do what nothing else can.I was wondering if just applying a hair dryer to the butterflies might work,but so far they have had plenty of chemicals.I am thinking the carbs are clean enough.You should see them.I think you are right., the linkage etc needs to be removed and soaked by itself.I believe if the choke linkage was removed the butterflies would move freely. What are your thoughts about boiling some of these parts?
 
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