Not happy.

Mackels

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IMG_2571.JPG So I am in the process of changing my rear tire. I tried to removing the exhaust on the right side. Didn't seem to give me enough room to get the axle out. Did a search saw a post indicating that if you remove the shock the swingarm would go a little lower. So I was in the process of doing just that. But my bike has some after market king/queen seat with a bracket that fastened to the shock mounting bolt. Right side came off no issue. But I needed to get the left side off to remove the bracket. Then it happened. I gave the nut a pull and it didn't really move. So I did the tighten a little and then losen trick. It started to come and then it got tough again. So I redid the process. Then I pulled. Too hard and the bolt snapped. So, what are my options?
 

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Weld a nut back on it. Lube it up with pb blaster
For a stud, I agree with this except I'd forget the PB and use a torch instead. I've never had a torch not get something loose that was exposed like that. A good muffler shop can do it if you have one nearby.
 
Not sure if the stud that sheared is screwed in or a welded part on the frame.... regardless if it were mine I'ed find the right size bolt and nut and make sure it's grade 8 and weld the bolt on there after cutting the old one off.... but then I like to weld ! LOL
once the head of the bolt is welded real good to the frame then the shock can slide on the bolt and the nut you have for it will go on it ....
the idea is to just replace the whole stud by using a hard bolt....
it's what I'd do, but certainly not what most would do, I suppose...... just tossing out an idea for ya !
Bob.....
 
That's seriously welded into the frame goes all the way trough welded, front and back. Several fixes, none are "perfect", drill all the way through bring a bolt in from the back, lot's of disassembly to get room to put the bolt in, check that this is possible... turn a bolt head round, cut the frame boss back, chamfer the head and the boss on the frame, weld it on. Drill and tap the frame boss for a stud. this will weaken the boss..... As always completely remove the TCI before any arc welding!
From the too late department: Some swing arms have a removable rear segment so the assembled axle, wheel can come straight back and off after removing the chain. Right now I can't remember if it's the specials or standards that have those.
 
hay that is a good idea gggGary ! a 1/4" hole through to the back side by the rear fender would allow a "keeper bolt" to Hold the shock On while the old stud Holds the weight..... that could work !
I had a honda 90cc that I was riding back and forth to school that I busted off the stud on the rear shock by the seat.... I just cut it off with a hack saw and drilled it out for a 1/2" bolt and put it on like that..... it worked fine and never had a problem with it
I busted it off trying to put a luggage rack on it ! Aurgh !
......
Bob.......
 
I don't have access to any welding equipment. Looks like drill and tap for me. What if I went a size smaller for the stud? What's worse is that I didn't even need to take the shock off, it really didn't lower the swingarm. I just had to pull up on the exhaust a little harder while push/pulling the axle out. New rear shocks were on next years list. I really would like to ride this year. This rear tire is giving me a run for my money. Oh well, this has been a challenge, but I accept it.
 
i think you could go 2 or 3 sizes smaller in fact down to something like 3/8" if you wanted to because the old stud is what is doing the support of the shock all you need to do is hold the top of the shock on to the broken stud....... if you are going to put a bolt in there to hold the shock on I would suggest a large washer to cover the outside edge of the shock metal ( not just the rubber) and then a lock washer.....so it won't come loose on ya !
good luck !
Bob.............
 
The shock doesn't ride on the stud, it rides on the shoulder. But if you have accessories they ride on the bolt/stud so you may or may not want a smaller stud there.
 
That is correct WER, the shock sits on the shoulder. Not sure if the picture captured it. The PO put that king/queen back rest on there. The turn signals are wired through the bracket (not very well) along with the back rest. I am going to remove the back rest anyway. It has what looks like an eagle on there and almost looks "Harley" like. I have never liked that thing. The bracket has more inward force than downward. I am going to try smaller stud first as there won't be added force from the backrest. Looked at a tap today. I was going to keep it metric, but looks like it would be just plain easier to go standard size. An 8mm tap required a Q or a H drill bit..(don't recall which one)...which needed a special order.....which I don't see as necessary for this fix. So maybe 1/2 inch is the way to go. The crown nut was a 17mm.
 
I am not aware, can you please show me what one of those look like? I am in uncharted waters here for me. Any and all help is appreciated.
 
I'm with GGG on this. I wonder if the thing you're going to tap is thick enough. Will the stud just elongate the hole and pop out? I would drill it out and put something with a head on it from the backside and weld it up. But -- I would take it to a welding shop and let them do the entire thing, including cutting the stud off and drilling the hole, in case they have a better idea about the whole thing. I think the cutting and drilling would take them about five minutes if they're good, and my experience is the whole thing would cost $20-$30 and be done while-u-wait in a welding shop. Or same day at least. Machine shops can take weeks though.
 
I suspect the threads are on an extension of the shock boss. I would likely drill and tap, going all the way thru, and then thru bolt and nut the inside. Make certain you remember this when it comes time to change the shocks.
 
Mackels what kinda shop equipment do you have? The reason I ask is a free hand hole will be a booger to keep straight. To be able to set it up on a drill press would be oh so much better. If you are looking to have to buy the bits and pieces to turn it over to a shop may pencil out. Unless you think you will use the tools again.
 
incase your in doubt ... that's what I meant ! lol you call it the shoulder I call it the stud ooooh well.....
as far as bottom taps are concerned they are a BITCH to start tapping the threads ! use BOTH taps the taper to get the threads atarted then switch to the bottom tap if you so desire....
for what it's worth !
Bob......
 
Mackels: you've got a challenging issue there :( but lots of good advice. My contributions are as follows:
- go slowly and seek advice from local machinists/welders before making a move;
- have faith that this issue will be solved;

On the bottoming tap - BE SURE to use the taper and then the plug end taps FIRST.

DO NOT start with the bottoming tap - because if you don't get it started exactly straight (which is darned near impossible), you risk a cocked hole which is likely to break the tap off in the hole. The problem then would be that taps are very hard and thus, are nearly impossible to drill-out or remove in any other way if they break off.

Stick at it - you will get there.

Pete
 
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