1975 XS650

Low speed wobble on decel.........Not to argue with XSLeo, he is right about the wobble leaving after new tires.

If you were to draw a line down the forks to the road surface, the point where the tire meets the road is behind that straight line down the forks, that's what causes the castor effect. Ever watch a castor wheel on a shopping cart wobble back and forth? That's what's happening on a motorcycle. At 160 pounds I can get that wobble to start on any bike, whatever its condition. One small pebble on the road or a speck of dirt on the tire can get this wobble started too.

Yeah, check the bearings, tires and chassis. No need to change the tires every time this happens, get the safe wear out of them, keep your hands on the bars. The low speed wobble on decel is just in the design of the bikes. Keep your hands on the bars and you won't even notice it.

And, of course worn tires and bad bearings make it worse. Gain 50 pounds and it may never happen too.

Scott
 
Last edited:
Low speed wobble on decel.........Not to argue with XSLeo, he is right about the wobble leaving after new tires.

If you were to draw a line down the forks to the road surface, the point where the tire meets the road is behind that straight line down the forks, that's what causes the castor effect. Ever watch a castor wheel on a shopping cart wobble back and forth? That's what's happening on a motorcycle. At 160 pounds I can get that wobble to start on any bike, whatever its condition. One small pebble on the road or a speck of dirt on the tire can get this wobble started too.

Yeah, check the bearings, tires and chassis. No need to change the tires every time this happens, get the safe wear out of them, keep your hands on the bars. The low speed wobble on decel is just in the design of the bikes. Keep your hands on the bars and you won't even notice it.

And, of course worn tires and bad bearings make it worse. Gain 50 pounds and it may never happen too.

Scott

It's a little more than a wobble. It's pretty much a tank slapper. Only happens on decel and with one hand off the bars. Unfortunately it's got a hand shift so I've gotta take my hands off.

I'll definitely be swapping tires and might as well do the bearings while I'm at it.

I'll be putting a sportster front end on it to run a 21". I'll let you guys know how it goes.
 
Right hand on the bars while pushing with the left foot to operate the clutch, left hand is trying to change gear,and the natural inclination to hold because your weight is trying to slide off the seat backwards........And high narrow bars gives even less control in this situation...........The set up is all wrong to be body comfortable and safe. This will cause tank-slapping as per your explaination

If your changing the front end, then the mismatched crown is not going to be a concern. Just odd.

I would be asking myself.
why is the kick starter only part way on the shaft ???
 
Last edited:
I see Skull is in one of his Nasty moods again tonight ! ..... the wobble on deceleration is almost assuredly worn rear wheel axle bearings as when the reverse torque is applied to the rear wheel it shifts the alignment of the rear wheel.... so the wheel can Flop out of center line even with the axle not shifting in place.....a quick test is accelerate hard and see if the bike goes to one side or arrow straight and decelerate and see if it goes to the other side or straight.... that will usually make wheel bearings ware very apparent ! at least for the rear wheel ....
grabbing the front and back of the tire and twisting will sometimes show up a bad rear wheel bearing as well there should be no slopping back and forth at all.
.....rear swing arm bushings will also do that there should be no flex side to side of the rear swing arm .
Bob.....
 
I see Skull is in one of his Nasty moods again tonight !.

Bob, what ever your problem is, it's getting kind of OLD

Those were good points Skull made about the bar width, not enough leverage on the bar to avoid the wobble, and placement of the hands and feet when shifting. Yeah, all of those things he mentioned add to the start and force of that wobble.

Scott
 
Last edited:
Right hand on the bars while pushing with the left foot to operate the clutch, left hand is trying to change gear,and the natural inclination to hold because your weight is trying to slide off the seat backwards........And high narrow bars gives even less control in this situation...........The set up is all wrong to be body comfortable and safe. This will cause tank-slapping as per your explaination

If your changing the front end, then the mismatched crown is not going to be a concern. Just odd.

I would be asking myself.
why is the kick starter only part way on the shaft ???

The bike is clearly form > function. But that's ok, I won't be taking this on any long road trip rides anyway.

Hmm didn't notice the kick starter. Will look into that and see what the deal is, might've just loosened up.


I see Skull is in one of his Nasty moods again tonight ! ..... the wobble on deceleration is almost assuredly worn rear wheel axle bearings as when the reverse torque is applied to the rear wheel it shifts the alignment of the rear wheel.... so the wheel can Flop out of center line even with the axle not shifting in place.....a quick test is accelerate hard and see if the bike goes to one side or arrow straight and decelerate and see if it goes to the other side or straight.... that will usually make wheel bearings ware very apparent ! at least for the rear wheel ....
grabbing the front and back of the tire and twisting will sometimes show up a bad rear wheel bearing as well there should be no slopping back and forth at all.
.....rear swing arm bushings will also do that there should be no flex side to side of the rear swing arm .
Bob.....

Well the bike tracked straight at speed and under acceleration. I've got the front end popped off now. I'll be replacing the wheel bearings anyway when I replace the tires.
 
It's a little more than a wobble. It's pretty much a tank slapper. Only happens on decel and with one hand off the bars. Unfortunately it's got a hand shift so I've gotta take my hands off.
I'll definitely be swapping tires and might as well do the bearings while I'm at it.
I'll be putting a sportster front end on it to run a 21". I'll let you guys know how it goes.
.....
Right hand on the bars while pushing with the left foot to operate the clutch, left hand is trying to change gear,and the natural inclination to hold on because your weight is trying to slide off the seat backwards........And high narrow bars gives even less control in this situation...........The set up is all wrong to be body comfortable and safe. This will cause tank-slapping as per your explanation
.....
I see Skull is in one of his Nasty moods again tonight ! ..... the wobble on deceleration is almost assuredly worn rear wheel axle bearings as when the reverse torque is applied to the rear wheel it shifts the alignment of the rear wheel.... so the wheel can Flop out of center line even with the axle not shifting in place.....a quick test is accelerate hard and see if the bike goes to one side or arrow straight and decelerate and see if it goes to the other side or straight.... that will usually make wheel bearings ware very apparent ! at least for the rear wheel ....
grabbing the front and back of the tire and twisting will sometimes show up a bad rear wheel bearing as well there should be no slopping back and forth at all.
.....rear swing arm bushings will also do that there should be no flex side to side of the rear swing arm .
Bob.....

I am responding to the situation explained by the OP. Just because i have a different take on it, compared to yours, does not give you the right to abuse me.
 
I get the form over function thing..............not going there or making that an issue................there are ways to minimize the problem though. ............you have to put a spring/shock or however you are going to do the seat..........that position of this will determine to what extent the problem will still exist.........

.If you have a look at the king queen type/style seat, (no i am not saying get one), where your arse is braced from behind it supports the body..............That is the point i am trying to make............not trying to make you do that, just a consideration on support and its affects when there is none, and how the body bracing has to come from another part of the body, like the one hand on the bars so that hand is trying to hold up the body and control the steering at the same time...............in effect Your tying to counter steer when you shouldn't be.......
 
I get the form over function thing..............not going there or making that an issue................there are ways to minimize the problem though. ............you have to put a spring/shock or however you are going to do the seat..........that position of this will determine to what extent the problem will still exist.........

.If you have a look at the king queen type/style seat, (no i am not saying get one), where your arse is braced from behind it supports the body..............That is the point i am trying to make............not trying to make you do that, just a consideration on support and its affects when there is none, and how the body bracing has to come from another part of the body, like the one hand on the bars so that hand is trying to hold up the body and control the steering at the same time...............in effect Your tying to counter steer when you shouldn't be.......

I understand what you're saying. The bike did it with or without my hands on the bars(although i did have to grab the bars real quick after) Trust me, I tried a ton of different positions to see if it would do it. I've got a king and Queen seat for my sporty so I know exactly what you're saying about support.


I'm swapping the front ends now and picking up some bearings to complete the swap. Looks like there's some trimming I have to do but no problem there.
 
Bob, what ever your problem is, it's getting kind of OLD

Those were good points Skull made about the bar width, not enough leverage on the bar to avoid the wobble, and placement of the hands and feet when shifting. Yeah, all of those things he mentioned add to the start and force of that wobble.

Scott
I didn't say they were bad points ...it's the way he said it ! confrontational to the max !
he was just nasty to me on another thread and I come to this thread and see the same shit..... that's why I said what I said if you really care.
.... I am sick of his BS ! a great knowledgable mechanic in every respect but the personality of a rabid dog.... you think he would learn
but I guess he is harder headed than I am ! LOL
Bob...........
 
Popped the front end off. Had to grind a nub or stop or whatever it was off the neck to clear the Harley lower tree. Ordered my bearings as well. So now we wait.

IMG_9985.JPG
 
Back
Top