charging system dead

so i rtv'd the right cover. and when i started the bike it leaked badly. even leaked at the top crack above the oil line! this cover is done.

good news: i replaced the nuts on the header with new stainless mikes ones, the old ones were rusty. and i rtv'd around the flange, because, i've had problems with leaks and thought this would be a good idea. then i tightened the nuts really tight. when we ran the bike, it idled terribly. it actually wouldn't hold an idle unless i held the accelerator. so i read a thread on this website that advised to tighten the nuts equally. something i did not do. i also removed all the rtv with a dremmel. started the bike and it idled beautifully.

i also bought some m6x1.0 fix a threads. so when i get a new right side cover from mikes i can get the damn bolt to catch and seal the oil in properly.

tacho needle still sluggish, when the cover comes off I'll read a thread on how to assemble the tacho.

by the time i accomplish the above it will be winter. lol
 

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my buddy is a welder and says he will take a stab at mig welding the cracks in my covers with a spool gun and gas (argon?). i will post bedore/after pics.

i gotta drain the oil to get covers off. anybody use a filter to separate new oil clear from the crap? i was thinking of using landscaping fabric that i had laying around. or am i doing extra work for nothing?
 
Don't bother. The fabric isn't nearly fine enough to filter out anything.

Just use 2.5 litres of new oil.
 
You're missing the little bolt that holds the tach drive in the case. I can see oil dripping out the hole in your 2nd pic. It's a special bolt, with the tip turned down to a pin, and has a copper washer to seal it. That pin end sticks into a hole in the tach drive sleeve. See the pics in my posts 82 and 83.
 
Lay the bike on it's left side, use padding, leaves the oil in the bike.

Shouldn't need to tell a welder.........but, that crack looks to run on to the face of the side-cover. The crack has to be pulled together, (as if it wasn't there), so the face of the cover doesn't have a step on it when finished. I would get him to grind a grove and weld from the back that way at least you won't have a weld on top of the case..........
 
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There's a guy on Kijiji Ottawa who has been flogging parts from a 1975 XS for a couple of years now. You might want to look at his ads. He shows a pretty complete motor, so he may still have the side covers.

BTW, my rotor now measures 2.4 ohms between the rings and can't muster more than 12.4v now, so it looks like we're in the same boat.
 
A replacement cover is your best bet, and an '81 is a good choice because you'll get an oil sight glass. I upgraded my '78 to one and just love it. Instant oil level checks with just a glance.

BbyN2bY.jpg
 
blank slate said:
my buddy is a welder and says he will take a stab at mig welding the cracks in my covers with a spool gun and gas (argon?). i will post bedore/after pics.

i gotta drain the oil to get covers off. anybody use a filter to separate new oil clear from the crap? i was thinking of using landscaping fabric that i had laying around. or am i doing extra work for nothing?
Click to expand...

My ex buddy the welder broke my oil cover (right side). I need to buy a new one. fml
Ebay is only place I've seen. $100-$150. Any other options? Members with an extra? I have 78 special.
 
I need to find this little bolt!

5twins said:
You're missing the little bolt that holds the tach drive in the case. I can see oil dripping out the hole in your 2nd pic. It's a special bolt, with the tip turned down to a pin, and has a copper washer to seal it. That pin end sticks into a hole in the tach drive sleeve. See the pics in my posts 82 and 83.
Click to expand...
 
I hope you don't plan on installing that cover the way it's shown in the 1st pic you linked to. The oil pump is missing and the tach drive rod is upside down. Also, that sleeve with the red o-ring on it attached to your clutch cable shouldn't be, it should be mounted in the cover .....

wmr3Gdb.jpg


Also note the shim washer (part #8) on the bottom of the tach drive rod. Check your old cover, maybe it's still stuck in there. If need be, you can still buy one from Yamaha.

EORlgzE.jpg


85PbMaY.jpg
 

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