How can I prevent corrosion on knife?

Actually at work in the modern world now . But go figure, Im fighting corrosion here in a big way on new expensive automated machinery, robots, and measuring equiptment. A definate concern in amanufacturing environment !
 
Speaking of big knives, I have one of these. The thing about it is it's 1/8" thick and made of the same steel as those Ontario Ka-bars. Lighter than a hatchet and better for chopping wood. Just use a flat file to sharpen it like you would a lawn mower blade. There's a thick plastic sheath for it but you have to find it separately as Army surplus or reproduction.

https://www.knifecenter.com/item/ON18/ontario-military-jungle-machete-18-inch-blade-reviews#reviews

P.S. To those counting on fighting cougars with a blade, the cougar would just gut you while you're stabbing it. But I don't encourage anyone who "doesn't like guns" to get a gun, because there's some good reason they don't like them.
 
The cougar will be laying on its side with its front claws sunk in your shoulders while its rear claws shred your abdomen like a machine. It would be hard to get his attention to show him the knife.

This guy is my grandfather and he did have some small amount of success fighting a bear, though:
http://www.wvhcgs.com/lewisgreen.htm
 
How fucking old are you xj? Your grandfather passed in 1784, you come from a line of long lived folks. Or are you one of them vampires?
 
So I cleaned up my knives today. I stopped this morning at the hardware store and bought a container of Brasso.
My Schrade knife looked like this before starting.
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So I sprayed a little cleaner on the brass and used a soft plastic spreader to gently remove the green crud.
IMG_5499.JPG

Then I hit it with the Brasso. Uh oh! The green corrosion actually etched the brass.
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At first I tried using my Dremel and some felt bobs to try and buff them out, but no joy.
So then I broke out the big guns and set up my bench top buffers. Hit it first with the black compound then finished with the white on a flap wheel. I still didn't remove every bit of etching because I didn't want to remove that much metal, but it looks a whole lot better.
IMG_5501.JPG
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Then I oiled it up and wrapped it in a peice of old t shirt.
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Here's my Buck knife before and after. This is a working knife so I just hit it with Brasso, cleaned, sharpened and oiled.
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I have a Schrade Uncle Henry knife that I've had for over 30 years. I take it and buff all the brass, sharpen it up, oil it , put it in the holster and the next time I pull it out , it looks like this!
View attachment 106434
The brass has gotten all green and gross. Every time I clean it , I also clean out the inside of the holster. It sits for long times between uses. It's more of a keepsake.
Any ideas?
Thanks Bob

Hi Mailman,
there's a product called "noxrust" [edit:- seems it's a liquid although I've only seen it as slips of brown paper that were presumably soaked in the stuff. endedit].
Grease the sheath inside and keep a slip of noxrust-soaked paper in with the knife
[2nd edit:- or just slather the sheath inside with the noxrust liquid. end 2nd edit].
 
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How fucking old are you xj? Your grandfather passed in 1784, you come from a line of long lived folks. Or are you one of them vampires?
My people refer to all our ancestors as grandfather or grandmother.
 
I take it and buff all the brass, sharpen it up, oil it , put it in the holster and the next time I pull it out , it looks like this!
I've always heard to not store a pistol in a leather holster because of what moisture in the leather will do to the bluing. Might be what you're dealing with.
 
Hi Mailman,
there's a product called "noxrust" [edit:- seems it's a liquid although I've only seen it as slips of brown paper that were presumably soaked in the stuff. endedit].
Grease the sheath inside and keep a slip of noxrust-soaked paper in with the knife
[2nd edit:- or just slather the sheath inside with the noxrust liquid. end 2nd edit].

I had to look that up Fred, pretty interesting product. A chemical impregnated paper that inhibits corrosion. I've seen bearings and other metal parts delivered wrapped in a similar product.

I've always heard to not store a pistol in a leather holster because of what moisture in the leather will do to the bluing. Might be what you're dealing with.

I did a little inspecting of the inside of the holster with a bright LED flashlight. Most of the corrosion formed along the lines of the stitching of the holster and against the metal snap.

On my Schrade knife I'm actually thinking about Robins suggestion of spraying a little clear coat on it, just to protect it. That and not putting it back in that holster.
 
this is true, ya don't wann'a store a pistle in a leather holster for more than a week.... I did and it was so rusty I had to do a complete teardown and re furbish on it....
Knives ...OOOOh I love knives and Timemachine that is a Knife !!!!! I got one I made that's bigger though, made from a lawn mower blade
it's not as fancy but it's a goodern' ...My swords are however just for show and out of mild steel bar stock , the morning star I used to be able to swing correctly , but now I don't have the wrist power I used to have and it's dangerous for me to pick up !!!!!
I've been goofing around making swords, knives and armor going on 50 years now..... a few I made I still have ....the best was a knife I made from a railroad spike.... but I tempered it way way too hard..... a file won't touch it ! but I can't dull it either ! .... it's a short wide curved blade for skinning.
I'ed take every one of those leather holsters and dip them in 30wt non detergent oil and let them drip dry for a few days....
dry leather is a sponge so fill that spunge with OIL boys ! the leather will last longer and the knife will be in great shape....
....
I have a forge I haven't set up sense moving here (propane) which I made and melt aluminum with it mostly but I have tried to temper a few things and have had nothing but grief doing it.....
tempering is more of an art than a science it seams ! and a good blade tempered correctly will hold an edge almost forever.... that is something
that we in the 20th century have forgotten..... a thick blade and a good temper are better than a thin blade with low temper
...sure you can still brake a thick blade.... but if you made the blade you don't pry with it ! or use a hammer on it.... and if it's razor sharp and stays that way it's the blade you grab when you want to cut something....
......
My $10.00 pocket knife is part of my wardrobe, I have probably 6 knives by my belt and I always have one on me if I have my pants on !
.....
and TM..... get yourself a 357 mag. Smith and wesson and carry that instead of your knife..... one shot is all you need to scare off anything
be it bear or cougar.... and they even have pistle scopes so you can shoot accurately with no training.....
making noise only attracts Hungry man eaters..... a gunshot sends them running ....
......
Man the hours that fell'a put in on that arrowhead ! I bet he was sick when he lost it !
.....
Have you ever wondered how the mountain men kept the o'l 50 cal hawkins from rusting up ? fat rendered from Kills , bear fat usually
put in a pot and melted down and left to cool.... then used like grease on the guns.
they didn't walk around in Dry leather.... it all had bear fat on the leather to keep it supple and weather proof.....
Dry leather will crack and fray in a short period of time...
and your leather boots become waterproof with grease and more flexible too ...same thing with gloves !
......
Bob.....
 
Bob, Lol You Rock ! A true "hands on" sort to listen to you are.. After all this I'd ask why even store a knife in a sheath or a gun in a holster ? Why invite the corrosion ? and, no worries about the wild things. I've been a outdoor foot stomper for a long time. I'm not dinner. Wild creatures run away even faster than respectable ladies at the Saturday farmers market ! and, I only use my knife for whittlin marshmellow sticks which does make the matches the most important thing.. -R. ;)
 
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Oh come on ....when your out traipsing through the woods and stop for a bit to roast those marshmallows do it right,... and start your fire without matches ! it ain't easy and takes lots of practice ! just use your pocket knife or even your big toad sticker and start a fire using found....
then your ready for the woods.... if you can't start a fire without matches stay within a mile of help..... and buddy a mile is a long way to crawl if you have a broken leg !
.....
I made the mistake and left the pistle in the holster I made for about a year... never needed it so it stayed there....
and time slowly ticked by ...I decided one day to clean and oil all the guns .... and discovered rust all over that pistle.....
I oiled up the holster I made ( from an old boot ) and after cleaning put it back in the holster checked it about 8 months later and it was fine
but that first time it was Hairy with rust and mildew...
Yes you perfectionists will cringe at the use of 30wt oil on a gun .... but you use what ya got ! and I've never had problems using it !
loggin' grease on the bolt action parts works good too...a bit messy though !
I know that during WW2 the G.I's would use any oil they could find on their guns motor oil was preferred.... and if it worked in those harsh conditions it'll work on the ranch too !
.....
enough of that....nobody cares ! LOL
.....
Bob........
 
Oh come on ....when your out traipsing through the woods and stop for a bit to roast those marshmallows do it right,... and start your fire without matches ! it ain't easy and takes lots of practice ! just use your pocket knife or even your big toad sticker and start a fire using found....
then your ready for the woods.... if you can't start a fire without matches stay within a mile of help..... and buddy a mile is a long way to crawl if you have a broken leg !
.....
I made the mistake and left the pistle in the holster I made for about a year... never needed it so it stayed there....
and time slowly ticked by ...I decided one day to clean and oil all the guns .... and discovered rust all over that pistle.....
I oiled up the holster I made ( from an old boot ) and after cleaning put it back in the holster checked it about 8 months later and it was fine
but that first time it was Hairy with rust and mildew...
Yes you perfectionists will cringe at the use of 30wt oil on a gun .... but you use what ya got ! and I've never had problems using it !
loggin' grease on the bolt action parts works good too...a bit messy though !
I know that during WW2 the G.I's would use any oil they could find on their guns motor oil was preferred.... and if it worked in those harsh conditions it'll work on the ranch too !
.....
enough of that....nobody cares ! LOL
.....
Bob........

Pisstul, dammit. The spelling is Pistull. I can start a fire with flint, steel, char cloth, and tinder, Very easy and sure fire, I demo'ed it to my Eagle Scout Army colonel brother and his jaw literally dropped. The next step would be substitute some natural material for the char cloth, I've read about some lichens. Then the next step after that would be substitute iron pyrite for the steel. Then I'm a certified cave man. I've also heard about motor oil to lube WWII guns. A gun store owner said used oil was preferred. The Garand, the carbine, and the Springfield '03 were so loosely constructed that I can see they would like that. I once tried to use a minimum amount of lube in a S&W .38 and the trigger wouldn't even pull. It needed a certain amount of lube to overcome friction so it would even operate! Pretty interesting,
 
LOL My Pistull.... was a Harrention Richtersons (spelling ain't my thing! ) 9 shot .22 cal a super fine target pistol...( yes my spell checker disagrees with your spelling ! LOL) it perished in the fire along with 4 other pistols 6 rifles and a bunch of ammo..
get fire insurance guys !!!!
I like using the bow and drill method, i've had good luck with that.... but I discovered that if you wanted to be sure you could start a fire you really should take your bow and drill with you....and if your going to do that a Zippo lighter is far faster !
Flint and steel is one that I have had little luck with... can't find the flint ! around here we have obsidian...not flint !
however with a good piece of flint it's easy.... I however like my Magnesium "Survival " block it works like a charm every time !
and it don't matter if it gets wet ! ....hehehe
it's really nice to be able to start a fire any time any where..... at least I've been told that...but I can't do that ....Yet.
rainsoaked woods make fire starting more of a near impossibility than a possible thing....
heheheheh back on the Ranch I went out one afternoon to "test my skill" of starting a fire with my bow and drill.... I did not take any tender
I gathered everything.... about 4 hours later I finally gave up.... my drill went through the board and I still had no fire....
and I had more smoke in my eyes than a camp fire inside a tent ! ..... but never did get the fire going with the bow and drill....
I went back to the truck and got my magnesium block that I got from walmart and had a fire going in about 2 minutes !
.....
Bob.......
 
Just want to throw in that over 15yrs ago while out on foot tromping around in the north east part of the Central Ore "Bad lands" one of the coolest things I ever found. Up against an old Juniper tree, where it had been for a long time was an old British single off road bike. BSA I think I remember. Very badly weathered. Seat and body was was in quite poor condition. The engine and frame weren't too corroded at all. And it was complete. Obviously, somebody left it and hiked out, never to return. That was a fun find! -RT
 
a Harrention Richtersons (spelling ain't my thing! ) 9 shot .22 cal
The model 999 that used a breakover feature to load and unload? A fair shooting pistol. I scoped one once.
But the High Standard, Ruger and Colt autoloaders were better tack drivers imo.
For rat killing I still use a H&R 632 pin pull which also is a fair shooting piece with the notched rear and fixed blade sights.
 
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