switch to allen heads and drill em yourself, remember the low man on the totem pole is going to get your pissy little jobs AND F em up. Besides the sprocket bolts never back out...
(kidding)
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Cylinder wall scratch, new bore. (with pics)
- Thread starter ebb0tk
- Start date
(kidding)
Bob Kelly III
Ranch Kid from way back,.... that got Old !
LOL I remember Honing cylinders being very careful to keep the crosshatches steep as possible, meaning going up and down very fast with the drill and bead wire flex hone.... when done I was sure I had the cross hatches perfect... and then I had to spin the hone to get the hone out of the cylinder and that last little bit covered all the rest of the hard work ! the cross hatches were just about like in the photo....
but I called it good enough and ran it that way.... the bike broke in fine and ran for years with no problems it wound up being the easiest of all the bikes in the group to start ! LOL it was a Yamaha DT1 250 ported polished and opened up all over in the intake area....
that puppy went very well !
.... so I am of the persuasion that the crosshatches are not that important ! ....at least on a 2 stroke anyway .
Bob........
but I called it good enough and ran it that way.... the bike broke in fine and ran for years with no problems it wound up being the easiest of all the bikes in the group to start ! LOL it was a Yamaha DT1 250 ported polished and opened up all over in the intake area....
that puppy went very well !
.... so I am of the persuasion that the crosshatches are not that important ! ....at least on a 2 stroke anyway .
Bob........
Bob Kelly III
Ranch Kid from way back,.... that got Old !
I vote run it !
Bob......
Bob......
I've never had a rear sprocket bolt back out. The only people that have a sprocket bolt back out, are the people that don't know how to use a torque wrench. Once torqued correctly, they don't move.
I've had trouble with mine backing out. I discovered if you bend the tabs on three sides they at least can't come out -- if the tabs are still in good condition. If you don't do three sides and things get loose, enough play can enter in that the head can work around. I put in some Mike's replacement bolts with new tabs, bent on three sides, and it looks like it's not going to be a problem anymore. One thing to be careful of is thinning and weakening the tabs when you pound them against the bolt heads. I use a hammer with a square bar of metal about 1/2" x 4". This time I was careful to bend it up well, but not make it thinner.
xj...........................How much torque are you using when you torque the rear sprocket bolts? I use a little anti-seize on the threads and torque them to 27 ft-lbs. They don't back out when 27 ft-lbs is used.
There's some weirdness in the manual around that area. 40-50 ft.lbs is good for a M12 into aluminum. All I can say is they loosened until I did what I said. One short trip I was stopping every 5 mi. or so and tightening one bolt literally as hard as I could with an open end. Hear it tapping on the frame and pull over and do it again. That's when I decided I had to do something. Considered getting them drilled because I didn't realize how worn out my locking tabs were. Neither bolt or hole was stripped/
I believe they are M10, so 27 ft-lbs is appropriate. If it was always the same bolt backing out, with the other 4 remaining tight, then the thread in the wheel or the bolt must be damaged.
I don't know what the manual says, so I decided 27 was about right for a M10.
I don't know what the manual says, so I decided 27 was about right for a M10.
The '78 manual says 22 ft/lbs, but I'm sure 27 is fine. It's an M10 bolt into a steel insert in the hub, so shouldn't strip easily. I've never had trouble with them coming loose. Mine are well anti-seized, torqued, and I use the lock tabs. I feel this is a bolt that must be kept lubed somehow. I've encountered ones seized so bad they were either broken off or I had a bear of a time getting them loose. This area is subjected to lots of weather on the outside and on the inside, the holes open into the brake drum area. They're subjected to all the brake dust and dirt inside the hub.
Interesting -- things are saying a 17mm head corresponds to 12mm thread dia. But I did just measure it as 10mm. At any rate, it's finally good and I probably used around 40 ft. lbs. 
In your all's opinion, what is the manual calling a drive sprocket and the primary drive gear? The specs there look weird to me. I also just noticed it's calling the drain plug a 30mm bolt, when it's a 27 head. Damn.
In your all's opinion, what is the manual calling a drive sprocket and the primary drive gear? The specs there look weird to me. I also just noticed it's calling the drain plug a 30mm bolt, when it's a 27 head. Damn.
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I'm pretty sure the primary drive gear would be that gear on the right end of the crank that the clutch hub mates with. It's held on by a big nut. The drive sprocket would be the countershaft sprocket. If the rear sprocket was so listed, I think it would be called the "driven" sprocket.
M10 bolts normally have a 17mm head size. 12mm bolts have a 19mm size. But these are standard metric sizes. J.I.S. fasteners often have smaller head sizes. A well illustrated example of that is all the M8 fasteners with 12mm heads you'll find on this bike. The standard size for an M8 bolt is 13mm.
M10 bolts normally have a 17mm head size. 12mm bolts have a 19mm size. But these are standard metric sizes. J.I.S. fasteners often have smaller head sizes. A well illustrated example of that is all the M8 fasteners with 12mm heads you'll find on this bike. The standard size for an M8 bolt is 13mm.
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Indeed i will =)
