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Questions about my oil pump
- Thread starter Mailman
- Start date
TimeMachine
SeventyEighte
Aye aye .. Keep It Simple Stoopid .. Who'd a thunk anything else 
Yup, lap critters can be therapeutic.
"Harvey", named for the hurricane that brought him here.
Best wishes on your knee, Bob...
"Harvey", named for the hurricane that brought him here.
Best wishes on your knee, Bob...
TimeMachine
SeventyEighte
Yeah, I was always a sucker for a hot little blonde....
Somewhat off topic but not really. Many years ago while reading a Cummins Diesel shop manual I came across the recomendation that if you are cleaning out the threads in the block for the head bolts to NOT use a new tape but to use a used tap! Idea being a slightly "dull" tap will only clean out rust and crap but not be able to cut any of the block cast iron. I'm sure this would be even more of a problem in aluminum!
And just to make finding a tap to use on those old Cummins Diesels they used 11/16 bolts. Not a common hardware store size tap!
All right guys, the knee is feeling much better, it’s a new day and the sun is shining, so out to the garage I go.
The very first thing I wanted to do was to clean up the threaded holes for my oil pump assembly. So I took clean paper towels and stuffed all of the oil passageways to keep the crud out.
Next, following MaxPetes suggestion of using a gun cleaning brush to clean the gunk and debris out, I first sprayed a little carburetor cleaner in the hole and ran the brush up and down several times with my drill.
Here’s the set up.
I then followed another smart tip from Gary and took it outside, held it upside down and flushed all the crap out with some more carburetor cleaner. No fuss No muss! The mounting holes came out clean as a whistle.!
So I cut my new bolts to length, cleaned up the ends. Reassembled my oil pump, dabbed a little blue locktight on my new screws and ran them up good and snug!
Everything felt really good, I have a high degree of confidence in this. I’m calling this job done. Thanks to all who helped steer me in the right direction. Special shout out to my Postal brother! And if I EVER decide to take this thing apart again, just kick me! It’ll be less painful.
Bob
The very first thing I wanted to do was to clean up the threaded holes for my oil pump assembly. So I took clean paper towels and stuffed all of the oil passageways to keep the crud out.
Next, following MaxPetes suggestion of using a gun cleaning brush to clean the gunk and debris out, I first sprayed a little carburetor cleaner in the hole and ran the brush up and down several times with my drill.
Here’s the set up.
I then followed another smart tip from Gary and took it outside, held it upside down and flushed all the crap out with some more carburetor cleaner. No fuss No muss! The mounting holes came out clean as a whistle.!
So I cut my new bolts to length, cleaned up the ends. Reassembled my oil pump, dabbed a little blue locktight on my new screws and ran them up good and snug!
Everything felt really good, I have a high degree of confidence in this. I’m calling this job done. Thanks to all who helped steer me in the right direction. Special shout out to my Postal brother! And if I EVER decide to take this thing apart again, just kick me! It’ll be less painful.
Bob
LOL. Well done Bob!
Will do Mailman - and may I say that we can all use a good swift kick in the tailpipe to prevent us from implementing what can only be termed a “dumb@ss idea” from time to time.
...for me, such an occasion occurred many years ago when I decided it would be a good idea to try true my own wheels while on a bicycle trip to Europe - without the benefit of a proper spoke wrench.
Not doin’ that again.
Last edited:
Denisesewa
XS650 Addict
I'm a bit late to this subject but thought I should share my experience with inserts, IMO there is only one way to do it right and that is with "Time-Serts"
They are pricey but I havnt had an issue with probably 100 installs over 30 something years, they come in stainless and steel,all sizes and lengths. the kit includes a tap, a counter bore tool an install tool and drill bit, these inserts have a shoulder which when installed sits in the countersink and flush with the surface, they are also internally tapered so when using the install tool to run em in they actually expand into the surrounding material permanently locking them in place. The military has been using these for years.
Looks like you have it sorted Mailman , good on you !!
They are pricey but I havnt had an issue with probably 100 installs over 30 something years, they come in stainless and steel,all sizes and lengths. the kit includes a tap, a counter bore tool an install tool and drill bit, these inserts have a shoulder which when installed sits in the countersink and flush with the surface, they are also internally tapered so when using the install tool to run em in they actually expand into the surrounding material permanently locking them in place. The military has been using these for years.
Looks like you have it sorted Mailman , good on you !!
