Well, it looks like you're about done fixing all the needful things. Time to just ride it I guess. But wait ...... did you Minton Mod the forks yet? Upgrade the type D cam chain tensioner to a type E? It's always something, lol. That stuff isn't critical (well maybe the tensioner is) but they are worthwhile additions. Believe me, you will miss doing things to the bike. You'll be looking for more stuff to "fix", lol.

That's too funny you say that. I really do enjoy working on this bike as much as riding it. My project list isn't all ticked off just yet.
I am going to be swapping out my left carburetor body soon because of internal wear.
I already have all the parts to do my rear swing arm bronze bushings.
I have brand new wheel bearings that never were installed.
I do need to upgrade the cam chain tensioner.
At some point I'm sure it'll need a top end job.
I am planning more work on my front brake to address the squealing issue.
The seat will need to be re covered at some point.
I figure if I ever get all the mechanical work done, I might have to get it painted!
You're right, they're never really through!
Maybe I need another project! Haha!
 
You oughtta show this to that dealership in Colorado...

Oh man! You are so right. I've bought two classic motorcycles from dealers out of state. The first was a Triumph Bonneville from Baxter Cycles in Iowa, what a straight shooter he was , he went above and beyond what we negotiated because he valued his reputation and wanted happy customers and repeat business ( I did go back to him to buy a new Triumph.)

The Yamaha bought from Steele Cycles in Denver, I over payed for that bike because they promised me a road worthy , ready to ride bike. If you've read my thread from the beginning, you know that not to be true.
Oh well, sometimes you eat the bear, sometimes the bear eats you!
 
Gloom despair and agony on me
Deep dark depression excessive misery
If it weren’t for bad luck , I’d have no luck at all
Gloom despair and agony on me!
FC58B5E0-E113-4A36-ACA7-46302BE0CC02.jpeg

So, I was supposed to be doing a victory lap right now and bragging about my mechanical prowess. Instead I’m sulking in my recliner drinking a beer and wondering what went wrong.
Remember my left carburetor that had all that wear inside? Where the butterfly had literally carved a groove in the side of the body and I had to do all kinds of work arounds trying to compensate for the fact that the carburetor was sucking air in around the butterfly and causing a lean condition. This guy here.
F7BF876C-A8D1-49DC-B0F0-8777762A463E.jpeg 35468C41-0DEE-4AF2-8903-F402FA28FC10.jpeg
My bike was pretty well adjusted and running well with one nagging exception. It had this off idle stumble that made it hard to smoothly pull away from a stop.
I was able to source a used but good condition carburetor body from Gary , along with a new butterfly. I had them all cleaned up and waiting to install. Well today was the day. I broke both carbs down and thoroughly cleaned both of them. I checked every passageway to make sure there were no obstructions, then I very carefully set both floats to 24mm. I made no jetting changes. I also installed all new fuel line and new filters.
C3F563BC-FB2F-4F51-B951-2E56A1621400.jpeg
04614787-47D6-49C4-95F2-BC06EC6EFACE.jpeg
3A21E070-9015-4FF4-B53B-71C3D0AABDC4.jpeg

So I installed the carbs and did the dead cylinder method on both sides to set the air screws.
Then I hooked up my manometer and balanced the carburetors.
It felt good started well, idles good. So I took off to get gas in it. The good news is, that off idle stumble is completely gone. But here comes the Gloom and Despair.
It breaks up and stumbles from 2500 rpm to 3500 rpm then smooths out and pulls hard. It’s very consistent in this behavior.
I went back home and went through everything again. Dead cylinder method to set the air screws, manometer, I even broke out the timing light and it was dead on ( Pamco ).
Took it out again and same thing. Starts well, idles well, breaks up between 2500-3500 rpm then smooths out again.
Got it back home again and was standing there looking at it, when gas started dripping under the bike. I hadn’t shut my petcocks off and the float valve was sticking open in the Right side. I shut the gas off and tapped on the bowl with a wooden handled screwdriver. Started the bike back up and it seemed to stop.
Then I thought I’d pull the plugs just to see what they look like. The left cylinder is on the left in this photo.
F74B7713-5CEA-45C1-BFFE-2A31902837DC.jpeg

The left plug was completely black and sooty.
I had pulled them about a month ago before doing this work and they looked like this.
6A9B29BA-11DF-4FF0-A2E6-CAA82AFA40D1.jpeg

So , for now, I just put the plugs back in and went in the house to think about it.
So let’s recap. Here’s what I did today.
Swapped out the left side carb body.
Set the air screws
Balanced the carbs
Checked the timing
Checked the plugs
This is noteworthy: before swapping carb bodies my air mixture screw settings were this,
LEFT SIDE. 2 3/4 out
RIGHT SIDE. 1 3/4 out
Now they are
LEFT SIDE. 1 1/2 out
Right side. 1 3/4 out
So the left side definitely had a lean condition that was being compensated for by the air screw.
I made no changes in my jetting, which is.
MAINS. 127.5 Two sizes up
PILOTS. 27.5. One size up

Which brings me to the point of this whole sad story. What the HELL is wrong here? I thought this was going to run like a scalded dog after all these lovingly done repairs!
7B17C08F-0A0C-4D42-9743-D801E0C6CC1B.jpeg
 
:umm:

Shut off the petcocks and run it, see if it cleans out before it starts lean stumbling? I'm guessing left float valve or float. Though the rpm the miss is at hints at pilots? But maybe it's just cause at idle the fuel level can rise pretty high without affecting how it runs then when the pilot kicks in that high fuel level sends you way rich, then the engine fuel use at higher RPM exceeds the leak so float level goes back to normal. But just guesses. :shrug:
 
Are the slide needles adjustable on your carbs? Set too high on the left. Hell I can never remember which carbs have adjustable needles....
 
It does have adjustable needles, I have not made any changes. They are set at the recommended setting ( I forget just now what that is)

I forgot to mention, I also replaced the needle valve o-rings and put new throttle shaft seals ( Yamaha ) in both carburetors.

It would not be the first time with these carburetors, that after working on them they don't operate properly. I have had to tear them apart, go through them again , and then they magically work.
image.gif
 
Could be the main or pilot jet didn't seat properly... sucking fuel past the threads as well as the orifice....
 
Dammit Bob - I’m comin’ over.

I don’t suppose it’s something unrelated to the carbs....like a loose plug wire...?
 
Hey Pete!
I gotta get this pig running good before you come down! I got the time, if I only had the skills!
I'll probably just pull them off again and just go through everything again. Its probably something simple. It's gotta be in the carbs, it's the only thing I've messed with, and it was running good before I messed with it.
 
I don’t suppose it’s something unrelated to the carbs....like a loose plug wire...?

You know I thought about that. I chased a miss for quite a while one time before pulling on a plug wire and having it come off in my hand. I had the same thought, I checked them , they are practically new. And they were fine.
 
Give Gary's "petcock off" diag a try first. Pay particular attention to the changes, and the time deltas. Listen closely to each exhaust as it runs.

If it cleans up early, like in 5-10 seconds after petcock off, suspect float valves.

If it cleans up later, and both sides run equal 'till fuel exhaustion, think fuel delivery thru passages, needle jet and/or its o-ring, sticking slide.

If it doesn't clean up at all, 'till fuel exhaustion, think blocked air bleeds.

Fuel bowl exhaustion will normally occur in 45-60 seconds.

Separately, do a run at the trouble spot, cycle choke on/off a couple times, see if any changes...
 
This doesn't fit your midrange scenario........but, after replacing your fuel line, is it all running downhill? No P-trap configurations to get air locks? Like plumbers say, "shit runs downhill, not uphill".

Scott
 
Gloom despair and agony on me
Deep dark depression excessive misery
If it weren’t for bad luck , I’d have no luck at all
Gloom despair and agony on me!
View attachment 110093
So, I was supposed to be doing a victory lap right now and bragging about my mechanical prowess. Instead I’m sulking in my recliner drinking a beer and wondering what went wrong.
Remember my left carburetor that had all that wear inside? Where the butterfly had literally carved a groove in the side of the body and I had to do all kinds of work arounds trying to compensate for the fact that the carburetor was sucking air in around the butterfly and causing a lean condition. This guy here.
View attachment 110095 View attachment 110096
My bike was pretty well adjusted and running well with one nagging exception. It had this off idle stumble that made it hard to smoothly pull away from a stop.
I was able to source a used but good condition carburetor body from Gary , along with a new butterfly. I had them all cleaned up and waiting to install. Well today was the day. I broke both carbs down and thoroughly cleaned both of them. I checked every passageway to make sure there were no obstructions, then I very carefully set both floats to 24mm. I made no jetting changes. I also installed all new fuel line and new filters.
View attachment 110099 View attachment 110100 View attachment 110101
So I installed the carbs and did the dead cylinder method on both sides to set the air screws.
Then I hooked up my manometer and balanced the carburetors.
It felt good started well, idles good. So I took off to get gas in it. The good news is, that off idle stumble is completely gone. But here comes the Gloom and Despair.
It breaks up and stumbles from 2500 rpm to 3500 rpm then smooths out and pulls hard. It’s very consistent in this behavior.
I went back home and went through everything again. Dead cylinder method to set the air screws, manometer, I even broke out the timing light and it was dead on ( Pamco ).
Took it out again and same thing. Starts well, idles well, breaks up between 2500-3500 rpm then smooths out again.
Got it back home again and was standing there looking at it, when gas started dripping under the bike. I hadn’t shut my petcocks off and the float valve was sticking open in the Right side. I shut the gas off and tapped on the bowl with a wooden handled screwdriver. Started the bike back up and it seemed to stop.
Then I thought I’d pull the plugs just to see what they look like. The left cylinder is on the left in this photo.
View attachment 110098
The left plug was completely black and sooty.
I had pulled them about a month ago before doing this work and they looked like this.
View attachment 110097
So , for now, I just put the plugs back in and went in the house to think about it.
So let’s recap. Here’s what I did today.
Swapped out the left side carb body.
Set the air screws
Balanced the carbs
Checked the timing
Checked the plugs
This is noteworthy: before swapping carb bodies my air mixture screw settings were this,
LEFT SIDE. 2 3/4 out
RIGHT SIDE. 1 3/4 out
Now they are
LEFT SIDE. 1 1/2 out
Right side. 1 3/4 out
So the left side definitely had a lean condition that was being compensated for by the air screw.
I made no changes in my jetting, which is.
MAINS. 127.5 Two sizes up
PILOTS. 27.5. One size up

Which brings me to the point of this whole sad story. What the HELL is wrong here? I thought this was going to run like a scalded dog after all these lovingly done repairs!
View attachment 110109

A 127.5 main jet is two sizes smaller than what are in my 34's... is that a typo or are the 38's and 34's that different?
 
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