Gear shifter loose

Next oil change you might try one of the "high mileage" oil blends, on the market these days. They have seal conditioners mixed in that can help soften and rejuvenate old hard seals and gaskets. Might not work, doesn't cost much to try.
 
Next oil change you might try one of the "high mileage" oil blends, on the market these days. They have seal conditioners mixed in that can help soften and rejuvenate old hard seals and gaskets. Might not work, doesn't cost much to try.

I believe those "high mileage" blends have friction modifiers added to them, not good for our wet clutches. If the label says "energy conserving" don't use it.

Scott
 
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No special oil required just carefully removed the gasket to find a previous bodge, possibly a heli coil of some description sitting proud of the engine and concealed by the gasket.
Preventing the cover from sealing properly....think ill lightly drill the corresponding hole in the cover to countersink the area so the cover seats squarely...
No wonder I was chasing my tail!
 
Most people use a rubber o-ring there instead of a gasket. It is thicker. I think gggGary bought mass quantities one time, The gasket I use is like 1/8" thick, so if I had that problem I'd have to enlarge the hole in the gasket only
 
Most people use a rubber o-ring there instead of a gasket. It is thicker. I think gggGary bought mass quantities one time, The gasket I use is like 1/8" thick, so if I had that problem I'd have to enlarge the hole in the gasket only

The o-rings fit into a recess on covers specific to them.
My front 2 covers are o-ring type and the rears are gasket and yes the gaskets are quite thick but I reckon if you measure theyre not 1/8" thick.
Ive made a countersunk depression in the lower cover hole and without gasket it now sits square .
By hand with just the drill bit in my fingers Ive enarged the gasket hole.
A very thin smear of hi temp silicon sealant and Im cleaning up the workshop waiting for the full hours cure before nipping the nuts up more.
Then its blow talcum powder on the engine again as I degreased it again earlier , and then the good part....
The test ride
 
Sounds like you got the issue tackled. Nice work.
If it still leaks, you might try one of Gary's thicker red o-rings, but follow his instructions on using them.
Also, this circled seam area can be a source of a leak. I use just a small bit of sealant on it in that area.

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Still weeping a bit of oil....might have to try an extra o-ring...
did a 35 mile mountain roads circuit with a fully charged YB14LA2 when I got home it recharged with my cheap 2700 Ma // 4amp charger in just 30 mins....gonna try a bit further tomorrow,,...wonders how far Id get?
Gears are shifting ok now and just ran a bead of weld along the inside of rear footpegs to bring them back to horizontal for a bit of added comfort for my pillion, shes been spoilt by the Victory
 
Oil leak fixed!...had to drill a tad more outta the inside of the rocker cover to countersink it to clear the bit of sticky outty hell i coil.
Test ride to see how my Vegas parts are going paintwise,... painters having a day off....went to see my mates at Burleigh Bars, Dave the owner has owned a couple of XS2s in his distant past and has a liking for em, as have lots of people Im seeing in my travels.
Least they know what it is...usually my Victory is a mystery to most people.
Just stopped for a pie at the Hideaway cafe in Tallebudgera Valley and spotted what I first thought was a Mach lll Kwaka in the carpark but on stopping I discover a 2 stroke 350 twin
Its a Kawasaki Avenger!!!
Last time I seen one was a museum!
Heres pix
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hi temp silicon sealant
throw that away and get a tube of permatex motoseal 1 . Better in ways that haven't even occurred to us yet, plus a shelf life like forever. I've had mine for close to 10 years and it's like new.
 
My gear shift lever is permanently loose because I don't want it tryin to kick my ass every time I have to take the cover off. If the splines wear out which I see no signs of yet, I'll get another shaft or mod the lever somehow. Path of least resistance
 
Battery had 12.6 volts when I left.
Just checked after 120 kms (70 mile) and its still got 12.28 volts
Ill charge again tonight and go further tomorrow
This is mountain twisties too not freeway sailing.
 
throw that away and get a tube of permatex motoseal 1 . Better in ways that haven't even occurred to us yet, plus a shelf life like forever. I've had mine for close to 10 years and it's like new.

I use Permatex Ultra Copper good to 700F use it on exhaust header flanges, does the job nicely so I wont be throwing it away thanks.
Googled the grey and note that Ultra grey is also good for 700F
And the normal grey even though good for 400F is ok with fuel,
Interesting not many tube gasketmakers are.
I used Sikaflex to repair my flaky inlet rubber but notice an intake whistle now as well as an inconsistent idle which is a sign of vacuum leak so may grab a tube of that to seal the inlets.
Or buy new rubbers when I can get good ones at the right price.
Just recharged my battery, took just under an hour, was on 13.1 volts straight up after charger removed but a brief flash of headlight to remove surface charge brought it to 12.86 volts.
Our club run on Sunday is to Cramms Farm so looking at the map its 70-90 kms away but knowing our club only too well we never go the direct route anywhere and you can never predict what twists and turns we make on the way there but Im confident that if I carry my multimeter , battery charger, and an extension cord that Ill be able to top up the charge along the way.
We always stop at a pub or two on the way and theres 240volt power at our destination.
The run truck will go ahead and Phil will have all our lunch cooked and laid out awaiting our arrival.
This is an extra special yearly run in that we also get prawns to finish off our lunch, and lots oif them
Not to be missed.
Bike is running great , the more its ridden the better its getting, been sitting for years and we all know motorcycles are meant to be used.
Looking Good!
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Hey motorbikerx remind me again why you are bandaiding the charging system instead of fixing it? I think we jumped threads here, you have a bad rotor?
Valve covers; late model o-ring type are bolt on to replace the early gasket type. One of these days I'mma gonna make a fixture for the lathe to cut o-ring grooves into early covers cause I got piles of 'em.
Sneaky advertising; I am still supplying nice fat silicone o-rings, shipping 4 to your door, world wide for 10 USD via paypal. Like mentioned above scrape any globs of factory clearcoat off the mating surfaces before install and evenly tighten the nuts just to snug. The o-rings are fat and will gradually conform to the groove. The second or third time you remove the covers they will probably go back on tight to the head and still seal perfectly. I have found a bit of the o-ring "squished out" on covers that have been on and off repeatedly but scrape it off with a fingernail and the o-rings keep right on sealing any and all oil leaks.
 
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Yeah mate, bad rotor and the bloke thats gonna rewind it for $60 is on holidays till the 23rd (day my Victory parts come in too hopefully)
So I dont wanna miss out on the Cramms Farm run see...
My oil leaks are now a thing of the past though my rocker covers are very crappy chrome now all flaking off so someday if I can get good ones at a swap meet I may go to o-rings but for now Im just happy not to have oil everywhere.
And soon as Im happy my bottom oil strainer is staying clean I will then fit a new gasket there and fix my last drips.
Sure is a joy to be riding something with more go than the C90 even though its nowhere near grunt of the Vegas.
 

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Another suggestion on sealers; hylomar.
Then; I saw a new to me trick (on a different forum I think) white plumbers ptfe paste on gaskets that will need to be removed again, better than grease or oil but still non stick and non setting. Available in many sizes dirt cheap at the local hardware. Think sump plate, clutch cover non o-ring valve covers. I haven't tried this yet but will, I have several tubes in my plumbing parts tub. A bit thicker than toothpaste, easy to smear a thin even coat on a gasket with your finger.
 
The paste would be interesting if it's thin enough. The motoseal really is remarkable stuff though. Thin and no adhesion, just roll off with your thumb, but great sealing. Mine is motoseal 1 and is gray. I've seen it in stores recently as just simply motoseal, not 1 or 2 (white) so not sure what that is.
 
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