74-76 front brake side switch

SlowMaintenance

'76 XS650 Chopper
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Hey guys, ordered a new front brake for my 76 and noticed that it's set up to go on the left side fork but my disc is on the right. It says the caliper is for either side but I can't seem to get the 17mm bolt and stud loose to switch them around.

Are they Loctite'd in there? Reverse thread?

Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
 
It's actually set for the right side, but for the '74-'75 models. They mounted the caliper to the front of fork leg, unlike your one year only rear mount. I don't think the bolts are loctited in there, or reverse thread, they're probably just really tight. Spec is up to about 36 ft/lbs.

full
 
In countries where they had twin disk set ups there was a left and right Caliper.

The only real difference was a grove where the Pads tab sat. Mikes may have that groove made on his caliper so it works for for both 74/75 and 76. If not then one side of the tab has to be filed off depending on what side of the fork it is being used for.
P1090823 copy.jpg XS Forks (2) copy.jpg
 
Thanks guys!

I'll try again to get those bolts out but I'm not feeling good about it. I put the caliper in a vice and tried to get them out and got nowhere. Even tried our shop impact on it with no luck.

If I can't get them out, can I just spin that fork leg around so the tabs face front? The fork leg bleed screw would face inward but it's not like I need to access it often.
 
Nah, don't spin that fork leg around, so many things will just not be right. That bolt has got to come out or there was a huge problem with manufacture and assembly. 6 point socket, breaker bar, cheater bar and protected in a vice.

Scott
 
To hold it for getting the plain bolt loose, you might try bolting it to the other fork leg.
 
Borrowed my buddy's more powerful impact and made quick work of them. Guess I need a better impact for bolts that claim to be 36ft lbs haha. I'll put them back to that spec correctly tonight when I install.

Thanks again for the help, trying to get into better habits of confirming details before I break out the heavy removal tools
 
Ok guys so one more question lol. I got the brake switched over and mounted up but noticed there was a slight running noise as I moved the bike around. I took two pics that show what's rubbing, I'm not sure what these little tabs are needed for but is there anything wrong with just sanding them down so it clears?
 

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They're lock tabs to keep that nut tight, but the part that's rubbing isn't doing any of that. Go ahead and sand/file/grind it off.
 
One more question for you guys.

I had a local hydraulic shop make up a cable for me because none of the shops near me could do it because the caliper fitting on the 76 is unusual.

I'm wondering if the cable they made me is bad. It's obviously too thick for a bike and not stainless steel but could it cause the sponginess I'm getting?

I have a russel speed bleeder in it with a one way check valve. I've bled my road star with them dozens of times and it takes five minutes. With this one though no matter how much fluid I pump through it it won't get stiff enough to actually stop the lever before it hits the throttle grip. It's close and it'll slow the bike when it's rolling but it won't stop it completely.

I've been working like a dog every night for the last two weeks on this bike to take it on a camping trip this weekend and I'm just lost on what else to do.

I've never had a problem bleeding brakes before which makes me feel like the cable is bad. The caliper is brand new never used as is the fluid. Master cylinder is also brand new from Hugh's
 

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That looks like a rubber car brake line. That may not be suitable for motorcycle use. It may swell too much under pressure and that would explain the rubber-like feel you're getting. It doesn't sound like your MC is generating the proper amount of pressure. Maybe it's bad too, leaking past the seal internally.
 
Nothing.........but just as important from a safety angle...........how is someone going to know when your stopping was my thought. Been a few rear-endings mentioned the other day
 
On my way to a shop that will make me a new line out of stainless. Thinking that will solve it. That other line is squishy and I can feel it flex when I squeeze the lever.

The switch is hooked to the rear brake. I'm the type of rider that is using either my rear brake only or both, but never front only.
 
Can't have the foot on the brake and changing gear when stopping at lights or intersections. That's where the front brake is used mostly on its own and where cars are more likely to shunt the rear end.............But hey!!!

If you have been trying to use the brake with the caliper on those rotors without cleaning up the dirt and groves first, the pads will be contaminated with dirt and won't grab as well either. Also will damage the rotor more and make the grooves worse.
 
Put the new line in and it's better but still spongy. Tied it up with the lever pulled for the night. Other than that I'm out of ideas. Caliper, master cylinder and brake line are all brand new. Caliper has a one way check valve in it too. I'm ready for a new bike
 

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Tying off the lever just might do it for you. Turn the wheel to different positions and tap the line and caliper with something while the lever is tied. Then leave it turned to the far left for a long while. If any improvement, do it again.

Scott
 
Still can't get this thing to bleed right. I may reach out to Hugh to ask about swapping for a new master cylinder. I've tried two cables, two bleed screws, tying the cable off, bleeding at the MC directly and I still have a squishy brake.

Not sure what else to do. Besides the rotor every part of the system is brand new.
 
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