What have you done to your XS today?

Indeed - cable routing is very important on these bikes and it is not at all obvious what the correct configuration actually is (in my experience). Under the tank is a busy place and between the carbs is worse.

The throttle cable is also quite critical and when I first got Lucille running, I didn’t have it correct. Every time I put the bars over past about 30 degrees, the engine would rev up. As a result, I nearly did a face-plant on the rear end of a Windsor city transit bus a corner one time. :oops:

Now, my standard practice after removing the tank is to start the bike, let it idle and move the bars all the way from lock to lock. About 1 out of 10 times, the engine will rev up which tells me that something, somewhere, is not correct. Safety first boys and girls!
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My clutch cable is routed on the outside of the carb, too. Since I just had the side panels painted, I will be re-routing the cable as well. Thanks for the heads up!

UM

You’re most welcome Unc.

BTW - to re-route the cable, it is easier to simply remove the engine case cover and disconnect the cable from the clutch worm actuator (don’t drop the ball bearing that lives in there) and that way, you can lube the cable at the same time.

I find removing the carbs themselves a PITA and I don’t want to risk damaging those expensive rubber carb mounts.
 
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Pete, unfortunately that light spray cable lube doesn't stick around for long. You may be doing it again sooner than you think.
 
Whew...worked on “Pedro” all day and I must say...my backs killing me!. Coated my tank last night and got it installed it today (new petcock and gas lines). Got my rear axel squared up with spacers and welded in my drum brake anchor. Installed forward controls and new chain.
 

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Pete, I like to use something a little heavier for cable lubing. I have tried that spray stuff and that's how I know it doesn't last long. It is good for flushing an old cable out and cleaning it. I use plain motor oil mostly. It take longer, maybe 15 to 20 minutes, to get it through the cable, but I'm good for the season then. I do the clutch cable when I have the left cover off for it's annual "Spring" cleaning. It involves applying a few drops of oil to the cable top, letting them soak in, adding a few more, repeat, repeat, repeat ... and eventually the oil starts coming out the bottom.

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If I have the cable free from the bike, like when I get a new one, I have a little "cable oiling station" made up to hang the cable from .....

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I don’t know if this is just because all of my cables are all brand new, but I doused the clutch, throttle, and speedo cables with good old liquid wrench from the aeresol can back in March, and my clutch is just as easy to pull
Now as it was then. No clutch issues at all since making an initial adjustment at the worm gear upon installation of the new cable.
 
Nice! I’ve always been a hater when it comes to baggers, but now that I’ve been riding for a couple months I definitely appreciate the need for them. What kind of mufflers
Are those pete? I need to replace mine, and I am imagining black exhaust mufflers with black wrap, with new black shocks.
 
You’re most welcome Unc.

BTW - to re-route the cable, it is easier to simply remove the engine case cover and disconnect the cable from the clutch worm actuator (don’t drop the ball bearing that lives in there) and that way, you can lube the cable at the same time.

I find removing the carbs themselves a PITA and I don’t want to risk damaging those expensive rubber carb mounts.
Will do, Max. A quick project this weekend in the a.m., before it gets over 100 degrees.:(

UM
 
The lighting on my '80 is almost complete except for front and rear brake lights, that will be next as I have to rebuild/clean the front caliper.
Was able to show off its quick start on the button with no gear clashing to MaxPete on Tuesday; he was impressed, I think.
Spent a hour or so today putting together a complete licence plate light from some bits and the bulbs light up so it is good.
The headlight assembly I chose for it (existing one had a "skid mark" on it) had been hacked by a PO, in that the threads that hold the light into the bucket were stripped, probably used sheet metal screws at one time. So I went up to the next bigger size that would hold a thread, turns out 1/4 24. I know it's SAE, but I had the machine screws to match the thread in the right length so the decision was easy. .80 tail.jpg 80 tail1.jpg
 
Yup - Lakeview has a solid runner there. She’s just about ready for the road!

We had an excellent ride yesterday - I went about 6-650 km total and had a superb day on my Suzuki SV650. The whole idea was to take delivery of a luggage rack for the Suzuki - but they had ordered the wrong parts - again :wtf:

Anyhow - Lakeview and I still had a really nice day and I dropped in on a buddy on the way home and had a good chat with him too.

Pete
 
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Nice! I’ve always been a hater when it comes to baggers, but now that I’ve been riding for a couple months I definitely appreciate the need for them. What kind of mufflers
Are those pete? I need to replace mine, and I am imagining black exhaust mufflers with black wrap, with new black shocks.
The headers and mufflers are ceramic coated originals.
 
Went to madison and resto died when I hit the right blinker. Shut it off and it came back to life, but was full dead at the stop sign. Got it off on the sidewalk. Opened the seat and immediately saw the problem. Snipped a bit of insulation off my charger cord, wrapped it around the terminal.
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And made my appointment. 5 minutes, dead to back on the road. Had to kick start it til I got home and made a perminent fix.
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I had swapped batteries the day before, must have been the last straw for the terminal .
 
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