Front end spring and oil swap

Also would appreciate a little input on front wheel/axle re-assembly.

When I put everything back together I noticed some play between the wheel and the forks.

Seemed like the logical way to put it back together was to tighten the clamp on the left side and then use the castle nut to snug everything up.

Is that correct?

Robert Reed said:

Also would appreciate a little input on front wheel/axle re-assembly.

When I put everything back together I noticed some play between the wheel and the forks.

Seemed like the logical way to put it back together was to tighten the clamp on the left side and then use the castle nut to snug everything up.

Is that correct?

Click to expand...

No

Axle nut THEN tighten LH clamp nuts.

gggGary said:

Axle nut THEN tighten LH clamp nuts.

Click to expand...

Thanks Gary.

That's what I started to do but it seemed like that would still leave play between the wheel and forks.

Am I missing something?

The LH axle step/flange sucks the wheel to the RH (nut side) as you tighten so the axle captures and snugs up the wheel, bearings spacers into a solid no movement unit. Then the clamp nuts lock the two fork legs together. Watch and do my meatball mechanic fork check video, this should be checked on any "new to you" bike. 'cuz a bent tube will lock in fork stiction which can be quite severe!
Edit; Not a bad idea to put the bike on the wheels and pump the forks a time or two before tightening the clamp nuts.

What Gary says. If you have double brakes in front, check the caliper clearance to the rotor as you tighten the left side clamp. Never a bad idea to check the clearance on the other brake, just because. The clearance of the caliper to rotor, not the clearance of brake pads to rotor.

Scott

Just to clarify, the shoulder of the axle bolt snugs up against the speedo gear housing?

I realized the shoulder keeps the wheel from moving side to side but the gap still looks off to me.

I'm not missing anything, am I?

Yes, the shoulder on the axle is pulled in against the speedo drive when you tighten the axle nut. You must leave the clamp on the bottom of the left fork loose while you do this or that fork leg will get pulled in with the axle and that could bind it up. You don't appear to be missing any parts.

I tighten up the axle first, not fully but fairly tight, enough to pull the wheel and all the spacer parts over tight to the right leg. Then I bounce the forks up and down a few times while the clamp on the left leg is still loose. This allows that fork leg to "float" on the axle shoulder and find it's perfect alignment spot. Then I tighten the clamp on the axle shoulder.

A word on that axle clamp - it is directional and made to be installed in a certain manner. There is an arrow stamped on it's bottom and that should point forward. The two sides of the clamp are different thicknesses. The front is thicker than the rear. The proper way to install it is to tighten the front up all the way so it touches the fork leg and shows no space. Then you tighten the rear to spec. There will be a small gap between the parts at the rear but none at the front .....

Yup, looks right, that's how they fit, the tang sticks out enough to just catch in the slot in the speedo drive.

Thanks for all the help guys, everything is back together and the front end feels much better.

5twins, thanks for the info on the left side clamp, I was attempting to keep the gap the same front and rear, all fixed up now.

Bike still isn't running quite right, took it on a 20 mile ride last night, about half way through it started break up like it's not getting fuel. Seemed to clear up a bit if I hammered on it.

Tank was full and voltmeter was reading about 15 volts while riding, around 13 at idle.

Probably going to have to pull the carbs again.

fredintoon said:

Hi joebgd,
Clymer's sez 27º & 115mm (presumably for US models) and don't even mention those alternative caster & trail numbers.
Canada got US models with MPH/KPH dual reading speedos, Kilometer Odometers & relaxed EPA strangulation.
BTW are you asking why the different numbers for different marketing zones or are you asking what those numbers mean?

Click to expand...

Yea and actually don't know what caster and trail is . But ya definitely didn't know why something related to suspension would be different in areas.

Joe, caster is rake.
Do a forum search "rake trail"...