Simple Carb Mixture Screw and Sync Adjustments

Re. fuel screw settings, what works for me is to set for best/highest idle, back off the throttle stop, find best/highest idle again, set idle for 1200 rpm, and go for a ride. If the exhaust pops under engine braking, richen fuel screw settings 1/8 turn and go again, repeating if needed.

The flasher fluid fix works great, but that's some expensive stuff; the last I saw was around $75 for a 6 oz. bottle frpom NCS. Anybody know a better source?
 
I have a 1982 heritage special us specs. I want do carb adjustments and do not have manual of twin mikuni carburetor. Can you down load pictures where idle ,sync and mixing screws are located or give me link to see where.
Thanks
Leo
 
idle speed bottom right
SpringHook.jpg


This shows both the synch and idle mix screws
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Be aware that the mix screw leaves the factory covered with a plug. If your plugs are still intact, you need to pull the carbs and drill out the plugs VERY CAREFULLY before you can adjust the mix screw. I've done it trying to be careful and still screwed it up.
It's been a while since I looked at the carb guide:
http://www.xs650.com/threads/carbs-carburetors.43/ first post, first link
if instructions aren't found there do a search, a lot has been written on this.
 
Be aware that the mix screw leaves the factory covered with a plug. If your plugs are still intact, you need to pull the carbs and drill out the plugs VERY CAREFULLY before you can adjust the mix screw. I've done it trying to be careful and still screwed it up.
It's been a while since I looked at the carb guide:
http://www.xs650.com/threads/carbs-carburetors.43/ first post, first link
if instructions aren't found there do a search, a lot has been written on this.
Thanks for getting back to me with diagrams.
This is a real messy situation do get at mixing screws. I really do not want to do this because I think adjusting these mixing screws will not solve my problem. My problem is that choke is not steady and once it is return to normal idle once warmed up it then begins to race and rev up and when that happens I can lower rooms by putting choke back up and then it returns to normal? Do I jetting problem? Can I do a quick fix by cleaning out my carbs without dismantling them?? Please anyone reply with your resolution if you know and have had this problem.
Other problem is I can not go over 4000rpms ???
 
Can I do a quick fix by cleaning out my carbs without dismantling them??

No, and sometimes you get to clean them four or five times before you get all the passage blocking scale cleaned out.
You will want to completely remove mix screws and washers.
 
Before removing the carbs i suggest you check for air leaks in the manifolds and throttle shaft. Spray some quick start on the areas when the bike is at an idle.If it revs up then you have air leaks and those parts will need Fixing/replacing when the carbs come off. Better to check now.
 
Carb work requires patience and a deft touch. There's no way around that. There are probably 20 different things that could be the problem, all are subtle and fussy. But chasing this thing or that seldom works. A full strip, cleaning and replacing the throttle shaft seals is usually what's needed. Replacing the seals is not for the faint of heart or ham handed. Lots of guys have wrecked a set of carbs trying. No one but the guy selling the bike ever says making an old motorcycle run WELL will be easy or quick.
 
Before removing the carbs i suggest you check for air leaks in the manifolds and throttle shaft. Spray some quick start on the areas when the bike is at an idle.If it revs up then you have air leaks and those parts will need Fixing/replacing when the carbs come off. Better to check now.
Ok. Where do I exactly spray to check air leaks? Where are manifolds and throttle shaft located? Sorry for these dumb questions but i am new to all this and want to do the right thing before I attempt to remove mixing screws.
Do air leaks cause engine to rev up when idling and then when I put choke back on thep revs go down? If this is the case them I do have air leaks somewhere. Am I right in saying this?
 
Ok. Where do I exactly spray to check air leaks? Where are manifolds and throttle shaft located? Sorry for these dumb questions but i am new to all this and want to do the right thing before I attempt to remove mixing screws.
Do air leaks cause engine to rev up when idling and then when I put choke back on thep revs go down? If this is the case them I do have air leaks somewhere. Am I right in saying this?
NOPE you have suggestions of possibilities nothing more. the carb guide, READ IT, as we are fond of saying; read it til your eyes bleeeed. If you don't have the time or patience to do that, you'll just fuggle the carbs and make em worse than they are now, I'll admit it, been there, done that.
 
NOPE you have suggestions of possibilities nothing more. the carb guide, READ IT, as we are fond of saying; read it til your eyes bleeeed. If you don't have the time or patience to do that, you'll just fuggle the carbs and make em worse than they are now, I'll admit it, been there, done that.
I guess I will continue to see if carb guide has my particular problem and see what I should do first before dismantling carbs? Can you give me direct link to this carb guide you reference. Just to confirm , I do not have air leaks that cause my random reving??
 
You could have air leaks, you'll have to run the tests for them and see. You can't "half fix" carbs. Do it right or as Gary said, don't mess with them. The mix screws have to come out for a proper cleaning to be done. You need compressed air to do a proper cleaning.

A guy just called me with issues on a GS850 4 cylinder Suzuki. It won't start. It has sat for several years. I have a pretty good guess as to what's wrong - the carbs are all gummed up from sitting. And him trying to start it has just made things worse, sucked shit throughout those carbs now, plugging stuff up even more. I don't want to have anything to do with it, just too complex (4 carbs). That's why I don't own a four, never have and probably never will.
 
Here is a link to an 82J/83K Manual.
https://thexscafedotcom.wordpress.com/2011/04/26/xs650-xs650sj-service-manual/

On the motor there is and Exhaust manifold and Inlet, (carb), manifold
The Manifold is the face of the engine between the motor and carbs, (or exhaust). Often, ( I do), call the rubber boots that hold the carbs to the engine as manifolds..........In the parts list they are refereed to as Carb Joints.....This is where it can be a bit confusing. Never a dumb question when things are confusing :thumbsup:

82 SJ parts  Manualt12 12.jpg 82 SJ parts  Manualt14 14.jpg

Cross reference with what people are saying with the parts manual, (posted below), the carb guide and your manual

A Parts manual page showing the Air Mixture Pilot screw and associated parts. #4 - #7.......Wont find this any where else. I converted this from the Japanese 4E3 parts mauual
4E3-3W6-3U6 TEXT.jpg

PDF Parts manual for 82/83......Excellent CV Carb Rebuild Guide, This is for Suzuki BS34 Carbs..Virtually identical to our BS34 carbs......Shows the tools needed for carb work and a good description on how to remove the plug covering the air mixture pilot screw.
 

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Ok. Looked over most of the stuff you referenced. It appears that I have either a vacuum air leak or pilot jet problem which is causing erratic revving . I guess I have my work to do over the winter. Thanks again. Anymore useful info would be appreciated .
Leo
 
Simple Synchronization for LINKED Carbs (1976 through 1983) with DUAL Exhausts:
First, you need to understand the function of the idle stop screw and the sync screws. Screwing the idle stop screw in increases the air flow to both cylinders, which creates more vacuum, which sucks more gas in, which makes the engine run faster.
Screwing the SYNC screw in ONLY INCREASES the air flow to the right-side carb, so only the right cylinder gets an increased flow of gas and more power.
Now to syncing: Idle the bike at 1200 RPM. Place your hands a few inches from each exhaust. The exhaust pressure you feel should be equal. If the right exhaust feels weak, then screw the sync screw in -- this only increases the flow of gas to the right cylinder, remember? -- until the pressure is equal from both exhausts. Re-set the idle to 1200, check again, and do a final sync adjustment if necessary.
If the left side exhaust was the one that felt weak, you do the same thing, except you screw the sync screw OUT, decreasing the flow of the gas to the right-side cylinder until the exhaust pressure from both exhausts feels the same. Re-set the idle to 1200, check again, and do a final sync screw adjustment if necessary.
NOTES: This should take about 30 seconds once you've done it a couple of times. The XS650 is not a space ship, and this does just as good a job as a manometer for all practical purposes. Some people like to sync at a higher idle, such as 1400 or even 1600 RPM. That's fine by me, but there really shouldn't be much difference.

Simple Carb Air Mixture Screw Adjustment:
Start with the mix screw set to specs. Set idle to an RPM that is low but still steady -- about 1000 RPM if you have a smooth-running bike. Now go to the right-side carb and screw the mixture screw in in half-turn increments until the engine starts running slower. Now, turn the mix screw out in half turn increments. The engine should speed up again, and then maybe go faster, but eventually it will start running slower again. The correct mix screw setting is the place where the engine runs the fastest. When you think you are there, you can check and fine-tune by turning the screw in quarter-turn increments. Keep in mind that slightly rich (erring on the screw being more turned out) is better than slightly lean.
Repeat for the left side.
NOTES: This should take a bout 30 seconds once you've done it a couple of times. You are welcome to complicate the above procedure by pulling a plug wire (points only!) or by doing the dead-cylinder method, but the only reason other people suggest doing this is so that you can better hear the changes in engine RPM as you move the mix screws in and out. I can hear the RPM changes just fine with both cylinders firing.

FINAL NOTES: These are really simple procedures to do on a simple bike like the XS650. Don't-over-think this stuff or stress yourself out or be afraid of doing them. They ARE necessary, so be sure to spend the 60 seconds it takes to do them and then get on with your life.
Can I get to mixing screws easily... where are they? Can you show me with picture I have 82 xs650 heritage special. Thanks, Leo
 
If you have the original, stock BS34 carbs, your mix screws are located in the little "towers" just in front of the slides .....

ZpMeHnq.jpg


But, they were capped over with a brass plug from the factory so you wouldn't fool with them. The plugs have been removed on most of these by now but you still run across one now and then that still has them in place .....

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Thanks so much, I will see if they are plugged and see if I can get at them without taking carbs out. Do you think that these are causing my erratic rmps and lack of power. I can not get to rev over 4000 rpm and max speed is about 100-110 kms/hr and no more ... ??? Leo
 
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