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How do I test my stock alternator
- Thread starter 79josh81
- Start date
Well if you learned how to use a multimeter the rest should be straight forward. Go thru the guide and if you have any questions, just ask. Best way to learn about your bike is to dive right in. Once you get it all sorted out, you will be rewarded with pure joy from these bikes.....after all the aggravation is over lol.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/expanded-charging-system-guide-in-progress.10561/
http://www.xs650.com/threads/expanded-charging-system-guide-in-progress.10561/
79josh81
XS650 Addict
The rectifier should be mounted on the bottom of your battery box. It's a rather crude looking "open air" design .....
Your 1st pic is the combination starter/headlight relay. Your 2nd pic is your regulator.
Your 1st pic is the combination starter/headlight relay. Your 2nd pic is your regulator.
79josh81
XS650 Addict
The rectifier should be mounted on the bottom of your battery box. It's a rather crude looking "open air" design .....
Your 1st pic is the combination starter/headlight relay. Your 2nd pic is your regulator.
Ok thanks.
Normal rectifier location is bolted to bottom of battery box.
You can open and check clean set (if needed) the points in the regulator.
But with the slap test working set the VOM to AC volts and check voltage of the 3 whites at the rectifier connector. at idle and revved "a bit".
You can open and check clean set (if needed) the points in the regulator.
But with the slap test working set the VOM to AC volts and check voltage of the 3 whites at the rectifier connector. at idle and revved "a bit".
79josh81
XS650 Addict
Is this going to tell me if the rectify is good?
79josh81
XS650 Addict
So just for future reference, does this part from Mikesxs replace the rectifier AND regulator? (if there ends up being a problem with either of those when I test them just so I know)
https://www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs650-solid-state-rectifier-regulator-70-79.html
https://www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs650-solid-state-rectifier-regulator-70-79.html
brianmac
XS650 Enthusiast
better to wait for these experts to chime in.
To replace your rectifier you can buy 3 phase rectifiers off Ebay for around $5.
Find one that has at least a 25 amp rating.
On your 79 it uses a slightly more expensive regulator than the later models. I can't recall the part number or just which car it comes from but with a bit of research you can find it. Around $30.
The Fiat regulator used is an easy 80 up hook up. On your 79 you need to do the 3 nylon screw mod and rewire the brushes.
Your early set up the regulator controls the power to one brush and the other is grounded.
On the later bikes the power is sent to one brush and the ground goes back to regulator and the regulator controls ground.
I suggest you read the charging guide and trouble shoot what you have.
On testing you slip rings you need to remove the brushes to get to the inner slip ring. Your outer slip is visible in that pic. The inner is behind the ring of metal around that nut in the center.
Once you remove the brushes you can the see the inner and be able to reach it.
Or pull off the stator. which lets you polish off the slip rings.
Leo
Find one that has at least a 25 amp rating.
On your 79 it uses a slightly more expensive regulator than the later models. I can't recall the part number or just which car it comes from but with a bit of research you can find it. Around $30.
The Fiat regulator used is an easy 80 up hook up. On your 79 you need to do the 3 nylon screw mod and rewire the brushes.
Your early set up the regulator controls the power to one brush and the other is grounded.
On the later bikes the power is sent to one brush and the ground goes back to regulator and the regulator controls ground.
I suggest you read the charging guide and trouble shoot what you have.
On testing you slip rings you need to remove the brushes to get to the inner slip ring. Your outer slip is visible in that pic. The inner is behind the ring of metal around that nut in the center.
Once you remove the brushes you can the see the inner and be able to reach it.
Or pull off the stator. which lets you polish off the slip rings.
Leo
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If you remove the brush holder(blk plastic housing) pay attention to which screws go to which holes. Some are different lengths.
79josh81
XS650 Addict
Here’s an off question...what do guys do with all the regulator, rectifier, etc. when they chop the frame and weld a hardtail on? Do they just stuff all of it in a fake oil tank or something?
yes some do..........But.......Reg and rectifiers need to be cooled so having then in an open space with sufficient airflow to keep them at their optimum running temperature is going help the bike run good as well.
Thee is no quick fix for patience......learning about these bikes and getting all the correct information will take time. The information given is going to be in fits and farts and even links supplied will have parts of and sometimes a piece of, to be stored and assembled, (talking about information here),. This is just how it happens on a site like this. Tech menu and search feature is a valuable resource, Use these features in conjunction with information from questions and sometimes you just have to cross reference.
You show an aptitude for doing things, (taking apart switches and cleaning), so it is just patience and it will happen.
No buying a PMA is not a quick fix. There are different suppliers and within that some suppliers supply parts that need to be upgraded to make the PMA associated parts reliable
There is an alternative to replacing the separate Regulator and rectifier on the 70-79 points models. This is a very cheap alternative but you do need to be able to solder and does require making up some wiring around these parts. Still simple..........This can be done for the 80-84 models as well but the 70-79 and 80-84 charging systems are different.
It is important to make sure the parts bought are for the model/system your bike is/has.
3 Phase Bridge rectifier.
Has been a report the cheap Chinese rectifiers with built in heat-sink can fail.
From 5Twins:
All the 650s I've seen have 3 white wires coming out of the alternator, not yellow ones. Connecting the rectifier is pretty simple. The one you're considering should have a sticker on the side showing the connections. The 3 whites, in any order, go to the 3 tabs in a row on one side. The black and red wires go to the other 2 single tabs on the other side. The red goes to the tab near the red plastic end cap, black to the one near the black plastic end cap .....
If buying a 3 Phase rectifier without a built in heat-sink.
I used a section of heat sink from an old computer CPU. It's been working fine now for a couple years so I guess it's adequate .....
The black is a ground wire of course. The red runs back to the battery "+" terminal. On the stock harness, it connects to the red wire running up to the key switch, after the fuse and before the key.
Alternative Automotive Regulators that can be used on points model Bikes with the Ground/Earthed Brushes on the Stator
Power switching regulator or what's called a "B" circuit type
I would search for a VR115 or equivalent first.................
There are many with different part numbers. They are all the same unit, just from different manufacturers. Here's some you can search for .....
M5-701 12V B-Circuit (Regulated Power)
GRX-528 Motorcraft (Ford)
VR 1010 NAPA Echlin
VR727 Wells
1V1033 Airtex
C622 AC Delco
VR-1760 Ace
VR291 GP Sorensen
RAB 12A6 Electro Systems
R292 BWD
A621
86079
KVR179
AL165F
A simple triangle shaped adapter plate can be added to your VR-115 to allow solid 2 point mounting to existing mounts on your battery box .....
I cut a template out of card stock to determine the size and exact hole locations .....
'78E Standard and 4 Euro twins
If you want to spend Money and go the 70-79 Solid State Combined Reg/Rect, (like the one MikesXS sells), then here is how it is wired up.
All you are doing is moving 2 components into one. This will eliminate one of the earth/Ground wires from 2, (one for each component), to 1.
Thee is no quick fix for patience......learning about these bikes and getting all the correct information will take time. The information given is going to be in fits and farts and even links supplied will have parts of and sometimes a piece of, to be stored and assembled, (talking about information here),. This is just how it happens on a site like this. Tech menu and search feature is a valuable resource, Use these features in conjunction with information from questions and sometimes you just have to cross reference.
You show an aptitude for doing things, (taking apart switches and cleaning), so it is just patience and it will happen.
No buying a PMA is not a quick fix. There are different suppliers and within that some suppliers supply parts that need to be upgraded to make the PMA associated parts reliable
There is an alternative to replacing the separate Regulator and rectifier on the 70-79 points models. This is a very cheap alternative but you do need to be able to solder and does require making up some wiring around these parts. Still simple..........This can be done for the 80-84 models as well but the 70-79 and 80-84 charging systems are different.
It is important to make sure the parts bought are for the model/system your bike is/has.
3 Phase Bridge rectifier.
Has been a report the cheap Chinese rectifiers with built in heat-sink can fail.
From 5Twins:
All the 650s I've seen have 3 white wires coming out of the alternator, not yellow ones. Connecting the rectifier is pretty simple. The one you're considering should have a sticker on the side showing the connections. The 3 whites, in any order, go to the 3 tabs in a row on one side. The black and red wires go to the other 2 single tabs on the other side. The red goes to the tab near the red plastic end cap, black to the one near the black plastic end cap .....
If buying a 3 Phase rectifier without a built in heat-sink.
I used a section of heat sink from an old computer CPU. It's been working fine now for a couple years so I guess it's adequate .....
The black is a ground wire of course. The red runs back to the battery "+" terminal. On the stock harness, it connects to the red wire running up to the key switch, after the fuse and before the key.
Alternative Automotive Regulators that can be used on points model Bikes with the Ground/Earthed Brushes on the Stator
Power switching regulator or what's called a "B" circuit type
I would search for a VR115 or equivalent first.................
There are many with different part numbers. They are all the same unit, just from different manufacturers. Here's some you can search for .....
M5-701 12V B-Circuit (Regulated Power)
GRX-528 Motorcraft (Ford)
VR 1010 NAPA Echlin
VR727 Wells
1V1033 Airtex
C622 AC Delco
VR-1760 Ace
VR291 GP Sorensen
RAB 12A6 Electro Systems
R292 BWD
A621
86079
KVR179
AL165F
A simple triangle shaped adapter plate can be added to your VR-115 to allow solid 2 point mounting to existing mounts on your battery box .....
I cut a template out of card stock to determine the size and exact hole locations .....
'78E Standard and 4 Euro twins
If you want to spend Money and go the 70-79 Solid State Combined Reg/Rect, (like the one MikesXS sells), then here is how it is wired up.
All you are doing is moving 2 components into one. This will eliminate one of the earth/Ground wires from 2, (one for each component), to 1.
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Some do just that. Most things can go in a fake tank, Things that get warm should not go in a tank. They need good air flow to keep them cool.
Things like coils and rectifiers.
Leo
Things like coils and rectifiers.
Leo
79josh81
XS650 Addict
Cool. Well I printed off a hard copy of the charging guide and some other stuff I found online and I’m going to go through all of the steps the best I can and write down measurements of stuff as I do it. I’m just hoping at some point going through the steps I’ll find the issue.
The funny thing is my reason for making this thread was to figure out my head lamp issue. Oh how things have shifted gears for the worst. Lol Son of a b*tch.
The funny thing is my reason for making this thread was to figure out my head lamp issue. Oh how things have shifted gears for the worst. Lol Son of a b*tch.
79josh81
XS650 Addict
The one thing about the charging guide in the Tech section is I wish the pictures all loaded that were supposed to be in there. A lot of the pics didn’t load for some reason.
These are Jpeg files. Right click and open in another tab for full resolution. Or then download onto your computer/folder.
First pic first 2 arrows.
Disregard this information if buying 70-79 Solid state Reg/Rect, (B type).
This information is only used if an 80-84 Solid State Reg/Rect, (A type), is used on a 70-79 Points model Bike, (B type)
First pic first 2 arrows.
Disregard this information if buying 70-79 Solid state Reg/Rect, (B type).
This information is only used if an 80-84 Solid State Reg/Rect, (A type), is used on a 70-79 Points model Bike, (B type)
Last edited:
79josh81
XS650 Addict
Thanks a lot Skull. Still learning the forum. Thanks for the info and the pics. From what all you guys have posted in this thread, the knowledge that you guys have on these bikes and their electrical systems is f*cking astounding man.
I'm just putting a collection together, a lot of it is others work. Also helps others if they come across your thread
79josh81
XS650 Addict
First pic first 2 arrows.
Disregard this information if buying 70-79 Solid state Reg/Rect, (B type).
This information is only used if an 80-84 Solid State Reg/Rect, (A type), is used on a 70-79 Points model Bike, (B type)
So if I have this right from the info I quoted from you above, if I was to have to buy a new reg/rect, and I chose to buy the one from Mikesxs, I wouldn't need the nylon screws?
