Oil oil oil

If you get oil hot enough it will solidify. As a child I remember an uncle who was owed $15, the debtor heated $15 worth of pennies in a pan of oil till it turned into a clear amber colored brick. The brick was used as a door stop in his house.
 
Interesting Gary. Well, I just bought some Castrol 10-60 synthetic for about $14 a quart. Figured since my new 750 kit doesn't leak, really, 500 miles and only a few drops from the breathers. Before i would have added a 1/2 qt by now. Anyway, thought I'd give it a try. It doesn't say zddp on the can, but figured i would add some. Will try your oil next oil change. By the way Smedley says that Mobil 1 10-60 has zddp in it, but it is not sold here. Also about the same price as the Castrol.
 
Has 20w-50 oil gone away? I couldn't find Penzoil a couple months ago so used GTX something instead, and now couldn't find that one either.
 
I don't know where you live, but in Georgia 20-50 is harder to find in the colder months. Think about it, there are no cars that use 20-50 or even 10-40. Before I rebuilt my baby, I used to buy either Castrol 20-50 mineral or hi-mileage part synthetic. I used 2 changes of Castrol mineral for break-in, now Castrol 10-60 synthetic.

No matter what I use, I always mix a 1/3 of a bottle of Rislo ZDDP additive with each oil change.

Mobil 1 makes a 20-50 or 10-50 (not sure) all synthetic. I've seen it in Walmart. I think I'm gonna try that next. Quick Silver makes a 20-50 syn for "V-Twins", also at Walmart.
 
I changed from Yamalube 20-50 to 10-40 and live on east coast of Canada and found a big difference come this time of year. I use it in both my XS and Roadstar. Found it is real good with little warm up time and doesn't feel like the bike will shake itself apart once first taking off. I don't see the need to change brands. It isn't the cheaper of the brands nor the most expensive.
 
Oh, where's 5twins when you need him?!... :umm: I remember reading a recent discussion about oil. 5twins recommended 'SuperTech' 20W-50 from Wal-Mart, and had a plethora of reasons for doing so. Viscosity, reaction to fluctuating temperatures, coefficient of friction.... oh, yeah... it's cheap too! :laugh:
 
Ha!! I found it! Look on Solomoriah's thread " '80 Special refit", post #137, where 5twins starts talking about the oil. In fact, the whole thread is pretty enlightening, when it comes to oil, filtration and improvements to the sump filter. (derisive snort)...and you didn't think I was paying attention... o_O
 
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Glad you found it. I was a bit annoyed at Wal-Mart; I got the 15W-40 Shell Rotella because it was the closest I could find, and the VERY NEXT WEEK they had the Valvoline 20W-50 MA2 conventional in stock. Gah. Been running Valvoline in my two other old bikes for a while now, but they take 10W-40 which is almost always available.
 
59Tebo said:
'SuperTech' 20W-50 from Wal-Mart,
Click to expand...
A long time ago I had a Mazda 626 1980s coupe. You have to adjust the valve clearances on it exactly like the xs650. When I took the valve cover off everything was full of grit.

When I used this SuperTech for my xs650 for one change I thought I noticed similar grit around my valves. Could be nothing but it kept me from using it again. Maybe high temperature turns it to grit :) Not burning any oil at the moment so don't mind paying full price so much.
 
Not sure where this came from, but I like it. Are these all synthetics? I assume all 0W oils would be. Also, I did lay it over, literally, on its left side to check the side filter without changing the oil. There were no soft dirt specs, so maybe the Mike's tensioner and guide have worn in properly.
Also, at approx 1500 miles, the Castrol 10w-60 is still really clean! Hmmm?
image.jpeg
 
Marlin72xs said:
Not sure where this came from, but I like it. Are these all synthetics?
Click to expand...

For that particular chart, the oils could be any type. To get an SAE rating, an oil must conform within a specific range of viscosity vs temp. I found that chart on a petrochemical site while searching on high temp oil issues...
 
I couldn't remember, but I was thinking that it was probably from you. Hey, I recall you mentioned something about at 2000miles, the oil that you've changed isn't necessarily that old because you've added almost a quart over that time. Well, most of us with these old bikes have the same experiences - before I rebuilt my baby it was like that or worse. It's like every time I checked the oil it was down to the 1/2 way point or lower and I'd fill it to near the top.
Since the rebuild, I've installed a dipstick from a 75 which is about 1/2" lower than our dipsticks, and, (hate to brag), the level hasn't moved from that spot for about 1500 miles. Occasionally a few drops from the breathers, that's all. I'm a happy rider! Knock on wood.
 
Marlin72xs said:
... Hey, I recall you mentioned something about at 2000miles, the oil that you've changed isn't necessarily that old because you've added almost a quart over that time...
Click to expand...

Nope, that t'weren't me.
But, I HAVE experienced clutch release problems when the oil got 1,000 miles on it...
 
TwoManyXS1Bs said:
Nope, that t'weren't me.
But, I HAVE experienced clutch release problems when the oil got 1,000 miles on it...
Click to expand...
Thinking back, I took a trip with Dr. Peabody in the "Way back machine", to 1977. Then, it was my save money transportation, I recall that if the oil was getting dirty, and if it was really hot outside, I noticed problems downshifting, finding neutral and neutral to 1st was really crunchy. That could be exacerbated by the old style shifting fork and shifting drum configuration. Since I installed the 81 trans and the 79 drum and forks, it has been shifting like buttah! It may also be more slippery with the ZDDP additive that I use religiously. The North Georgia weather is very mild now, and at 2K miles on the Castrol 10-60, it's still smooth as buttah!
You may recall the difference between the 256 drum and the 447's.
 

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